I've been building and painting models once again for the last 3 to 4 years and consider myself pretty experienced with airbrushes. I just added an Iwata Eclipse CS about a year ago and love it. The thing about this brush is, I dont really need the fine detail and transparent layering it does so well all the time. For alot of my airbrush use this brush is a bit overkill. I airbrush primarily w Tamiya acrylics and and just now am getting into vallejo model colors. If I want to lay down a base coat it just seems to take too long with the Eclipse. Get the paint thicker with it and it just turns into a clogging game! It is a great brush but quite finicky w acrylics. Since alot of my work is basecoating, clear coating, top coating (maybe 60% of use), would anyone recommend going to a single action brush just to make things easier? Dual action just doesn't seem to be my thing for these types of larger area jobs. When paint begins to clog w a dual action (after around 10 mins of use) i find the engagement point of paint to trigger pull ALWAYS varying. Pull back on trigger - nothing, little more - nothing, little more - SPLAT! This even happens when I have almost the perfect thinned paint and sweet spot of air psi. Years have gone by and I cannot remove the paranoia of blobbing out paint on my DA brushes onto the model!! Would something like a Paasche H series or Badger 200 be a good simple workhorse that might give me more predictable paint flow or am I do I risk encountering the same issues?
PS I just now for the first time used tamiya laquer thinner and it came out like butter! I want to use this stuff more but will be limited for awhile until I can get a spray booth.

Using a single action airbrush can give you a steady reliable paint flow with a consistent finish. I've always liked the Paasche H. To me it is the AK-47 of airbrushes. Replacement part are cheap, and you can spray all kind of stuff through it,just keep it clean.

Steve, I agree completely with Peter. Don't underestimate a single action airbrush, especially the Paasche H series. I have been using them for years and love them. With proper cleaning, proper air pressure, good paint mixture and fine tips I have been able to execute tight free-hand demarcation lines. As Peter says, parts are cheap and these airbrushes are very user friendly.

Best wishes,

Ian

Spot on. 100% agree w/ Peter & Ian.

Thats good to hear actually. I thought I was crazy wanting a SA brush after getting this iwata, lol. If the Paasche is the ak 47 of brushes then eclipse is definitely the M 16. Think I will go ahead and get a Paasche H series. I see more vids and demos etc w these brushes than any other. Thanks for the feedback, guys

Don't be afraid to pick up on a Badger 200 if you run across one. They're a real workhorse when it comes down to just putting down paint and I've found the Badger guarantee to be rock solid if it's ever needed - I picked up a second 200 with the nylon bushing knocked out of it. Sent it back to Badger and it was repaired at no charge.

I totally agree. For priming, varnishing, or broad applications of paint an SA is fast and easy.

I did this one freehand with a Badger 200 G ... although I also use a H&S Infinity on other projects ... but I still start off with my trusted Badger 200 G mostly.
I still have to get use to the double action ....
But with a fine needle, proper mixed Tamiya acrylic my outer lines are almost as precise as with the Infinity.



Cheers
Christopher

Christopher, great looking Panzer 2000 and a great example of what a SA can do.

Best wishes,

Ian

Wow Chris - freehand ! That's impressive w/ the old badger man - nice job.
What order did do you colors?

Here are some more:



All done with the Badger
Trick is to thin down the paint adding about 70% thinner and low pressure ... your sprayed lines are much more precise, you can get in close ... hardly any "overspray" fog if you spray into the patch .... outside - in direction.
You will have to repeat the same line a couple of times till it covers ... this is very time consuming though ... with the Leclerc most people believed that I masked the patches.
I use the same method with any airbrush I use ... with the H&S it's some times too precise ... I can "fix" the pressure and flow on my H&S just like a single action airbrush ... but for other kind of spray jobs I have to release my "settings" ... that's why I still use the Badger.
I paint all my models like the real thing base color and then the camo.
... and a lot of practice !

Cheers
Christopher

Wow. Those are impressive results w the Badger there. I just got my Paasche H in the mail yesterday and put it through the paces last night with some tamiya acrylic. Really really like it, its nice to have the simplicity of the SA brush once again after a 20 year break. As usual the tamiyas did eventually clog up the tip and paint flow had to be modulated / tip cleaned w windex to get it back. Adding some acryl retarder I can get nice fine lines on the number 3 tip but this brush does seem to like higher pressures. Once i get too low (below 9 or 10 psi) you get the graininess. Next task it to try this brush w tamiya laquer thinner. Christopher, are you using the tamiya acrylic thinner or the laquer?

I use only the Tamiya thinner with their paints ... try thinning your color down to avoid "graininess" and the nozzle from clogging up.
All my works are done with the "Fine"- needle closed almost all the way ... but I really thin down the paint probably up to 80% with thinner. Tamiya and Grunze colors work okay but with either one of my airbrushes all the AK's, Vallejo, Mig etc. -colors have not convince me.

Well good luck and ... practice makes perfect !

Cheers
Christopher