I've the new project - Sturminfanteriegeschütz 33B in 1/72 scale of course. I've inspired of this archive pic:
(for discussiom only)
There is my stuff which I bought in the past:
I had to use lighter to heat up winterketten. That was the only possibility to get shape of tracks. Inspiring of archive pics I will break a few of them in the next step:
Ready to paint. Several parts of hull was added.
This is the compilation of several sets:
- base: Revell,
- tracks: Model Trans
- hull: AMC
- stowage: Black Dog
- barrel: RB Model
- rest parts: from Dragon and Revell models
- modifcation: my own scratch.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Sturminfanteriegeschütz 33B
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Sunday, December 21, 2014 - 07:13 PM UTC
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, December 21, 2014 - 08:25 PM UTC
These vehicles seemed to be standardly equipped with a full width wooden stowage box mounted on raised brackets on top of the armored louvres on the engine deck. You can just about see one end of it in the photo under a large box.
Posted: Sunday, December 21, 2014 - 08:35 PM UTC
There where at least 2 different version from different production batches. 1 had the box the other did not.
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Monday, December 22, 2014 - 07:30 PM UTC
Quoted Text
These vehicles seemed to be standardly equipped with a full width wooden stowage box mounted on raised brackets on top of the armored louvres on the engine deck. You can just about see one end of it in the photo under a large box.
Yes, I knew it. However, the resin looks much better. I'm enjoying modelling so most of my works looks rather like sci-fi...
Best wishes,
M.
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Monday, December 22, 2014 - 07:51 PM UTC
Quoted Text
There where at least 2 different version from different production batches. 1 had the box the other did not.
There were a total of less than 50 vehicles made in only two production runs.
C_JACQUEMONT
Loire-Atlantique, France
Joined: October 09, 2004
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Posted: Monday, December 22, 2014 - 07:52 PM UTC
Really neat.
I want to do the exact same vehicle in 1/35.
Cheers,
Christophe
I want to do the exact same vehicle in 1/35.
Cheers,
Christophe
robertkru
Austria
Joined: August 31, 2010
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Posted: Monday, December 22, 2014 - 09:23 PM UTC
Hi
Nice and clean build so far. Now I am waiting for pics of painted SIG. From which company is the figure?
Advices for rivet counters: Only 24 were built on old chassis of Stug 3B-E. engine deck got the first version of "air circulation hoods"
Most conversions including this have the wrong Stug3G/Pz3J engine deck.
Regards from Vienna
Robert
Nice and clean build so far. Now I am waiting for pics of painted SIG. From which company is the figure?
Advices for rivet counters: Only 24 were built on old chassis of Stug 3B-E. engine deck got the first version of "air circulation hoods"
Most conversions including this have the wrong Stug3G/Pz3J engine deck.
Regards from Vienna
Robert
spaarndammer
Noord-Holland, Netherlands
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Posted: Monday, December 22, 2014 - 11:07 PM UTC
Very nice conversion of the Revell kit. Adding those tracks must have been a tricky job.
Looking forward to see more of this.
Jelger
Looking forward to see more of this.
Jelger
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Sunday, January 04, 2015 - 12:14 AM UTC
In progress...
matejson
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Posted: Saturday, January 10, 2015 - 09:33 PM UTC
First painting steps...
berndm
Niedersachsen, Germany
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Posted: Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 05:23 PM UTC
Outstanding work, how are these resin tracks from Modeltrans ?
Are they flexible ?
Are they flexible ?
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 - 03:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Outstanding work, how are these resin tracks from Modeltrans ?
Are they flexible ?
Unfortunetly, they're very hard to flex....difficult to get shape.
Little progress. Sometimes I test many techniques on the plastic sheet. In this case, I used different products to try painting winter camo in six ways using airbrush, old brush or sponge.
As you can see, I have used mixed techniques to show worn-out winter camo effects.
Thanks for comments and suggestions. All best,
M.
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Thursday, January 22, 2015 - 12:51 AM UTC
Next winter camo painting steps. I've painted lighter tones using airbrush and White Model Color from Vallejo. Then in different I did irregular white dots with diluted white paint using fine brush.
Final effect before wash, rains and oil painting part. What do you think?
Final effect before wash, rains and oil painting part. What do you think?
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2015 - 09:38 PM UTC
I recommend everyone wash acryclic form Vallejo to get shade effect on details. I think it's easier, fast and convenient way to gain satisfying result.
firstcircle
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, February 07, 2015 - 12:45 AM UTC
Mateusz, this is looking very nice, you have a good complex looking whitewash there.
I obtained the Vallejo washes recently, and agree they are very easy and quick to use. Something I noticed with the black is how very matt (flat) it dried. Nothing wrong with that, just that washes are often made from enamel or oils and it gives a different look from those I think.
Diorama base is big!
I obtained the Vallejo washes recently, and agree they are very easy and quick to use. Something I noticed with the black is how very matt (flat) it dried. Nothing wrong with that, just that washes are often made from enamel or oils and it gives a different look from those I think.
Diorama base is big!
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Saturday, February 14, 2015 - 02:03 PM UTC
Yes Matthew, I agree with you.
I began the most arduous process in weathering stage, which was chips painting.
The next stage of weathering - mud applying. I use diffrent technieques and wheathering products. The baking soda is very useful to get mud lumps effect.
M.
I began the most arduous process in weathering stage, which was chips painting.
The next stage of weathering - mud applying. I use diffrent technieques and wheathering products. The baking soda is very useful to get mud lumps effect.
M.
Posted: Saturday, February 14, 2015 - 02:41 PM UTC
Wow! Beautful work, Mateusz! This is great work especially considering the scale.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2015 - 02:05 AM UTC
Base painting. As you can see, in the first phase I used vivid colors. The StuG 33B will be contrasting on the base on purpose. However, everything will tranform in next steps. The rubble coming soon...
M.
M.
Posted: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 - 09:40 AM UTC
@matejson – Mateusz,
Been following with interest and it’s looking very good so far. Like how you’ve handled the vehicle and the base looks stunning, well painted thus far. Waiting to see more!
As always thanks for posting and sharing your builds here.
~ Eddy
Been following with interest and it’s looking very good so far. Like how you’ve handled the vehicle and the base looks stunning, well painted thus far. Waiting to see more!
As always thanks for posting and sharing your builds here.
~ Eddy
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Wednesday, March 04, 2015 - 09:19 PM UTC
Eddy, thanks for watching.
Keeping forward. The rubble have been added already. The roof's and shutter'sha wood parts also have been appeared. To create the rubble around the ruin I applied a terracotta glue in the first step. Then I threw crushed pieces of plaster. Fine sand was glued with AMMO Mig "Sand & gravel glue" in the last step. Time to paint, apply wash and weathering all base.
Now I present the whole scene after the next painting stage. The weathering was also started. I use different products from AK Interactive. The rubble was painted using several paints, most of the was from Model Color "Panzer Aces" palette. The cobblestone got wash from Vallejo (Wash Lavado, Sepia Shade). It's not the end of course...
Best,
M.
Keeping forward. The rubble have been added already. The roof's and shutter'sha wood parts also have been appeared. To create the rubble around the ruin I applied a terracotta glue in the first step. Then I threw crushed pieces of plaster. Fine sand was glued with AMMO Mig "Sand & gravel glue" in the last step. Time to paint, apply wash and weathering all base.
Now I present the whole scene after the next painting stage. The weathering was also started. I use different products from AK Interactive. The rubble was painted using several paints, most of the was from Model Color "Panzer Aces" palette. The cobblestone got wash from Vallejo (Wash Lavado, Sepia Shade). It's not the end of course...
Best,
M.
easyco69
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, March 04, 2015 - 10:13 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThere where at least 2 different version from different production batches. 1 had the box the other did not.
There were a total of less than 50 vehicles made in only two production runs.
Only 24 were built.
Posted: Thursday, March 05, 2015 - 03:14 AM UTC
Bravo on a well done conversion and dio!
Posted: Thursday, March 05, 2015 - 03:34 AM UTC
Quoted Text
These vehicles seemed to be standardly equipped with a full width wooden stowage box mounted on raised brackets on top of the armored louvres on the engine deck. You can just about see one end of it in the photo under a large box.
I didn't realize those boxes were made of wood, so that's good info. Seems to me, though, that being made of wood, they would have been highly susceptible to battle damage and/or crew-induced field mods. Therefore, I think seeing one without the box isn't beyond the realm of the highly plausible.
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Saturday, March 21, 2015 - 06:05 PM UTC
Currently model and base is finished and whole work could be seen at XII International Festival of Plastic Scale Models Bytom 2015.
Let's continue the workshop theme. All base was weathered as you can see. The smoke effect was added on the upper places near windows.
Paints from Vallejo was used to create bricks and rubble.
M.
Let's continue the workshop theme. All base was weathered as you can see. The smoke effect was added on the upper places near windows.
Paints from Vallejo was used to create bricks and rubble.
M.
matejson
Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Friday, April 03, 2015 - 03:04 AM UTC
o if the Stug 33B have winter camo then the snow must be appeared on the base. I used fine silicon sand from the resin set (for dental application) and glued it by "Sand & Gravel Glue" from AMMO of MIg Jimenez. Highly recommend glue!
The wet and mud effect was prepared by different mixtures. Some places were coated by AK enamel color. Moreover, I sprinkled pigment from MIG Productions and varnished it using "Wet effect" from AMMO. Agian using AK Interactive enamel color, dry mud spotters on the snow were ceated by blowing air over a loaded airbrush In the last phase puddles was made by resin from Vallejo (Still Water).
The last weathering step is published in the topic. To finish Stug 33b I used these enamel colors from AK, which was applied randomly on the tracks like on the photo.
M.
The wet and mud effect was prepared by different mixtures. Some places were coated by AK enamel color. Moreover, I sprinkled pigment from MIG Productions and varnished it using "Wet effect" from AMMO. Agian using AK Interactive enamel color, dry mud spotters on the snow were ceated by blowing air over a loaded airbrush In the last phase puddles was made by resin from Vallejo (Still Water).
The last weathering step is published in the topic. To finish Stug 33b I used these enamel colors from AK, which was applied randomly on the tracks like on the photo.
M.