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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
How to effectively apply AK True Metals
communityguy
#280
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 14, 2012
KitMaker: 493 posts
Armorama: 358 posts
Posted: Friday, December 26, 2014 - 06:24 AM UTC
I've been playing with my first tube of AK Interactive's True Metals (using my trusty white plastic spoon trick - cheap to handle, write details of the primer technique on" and easy to keep around for easy reference later).

I'm flummoxed... how the heck are you supposed to apply these things?? I get that you're supposed to lay them down thick, let dry, then buff.... but does the buffing tone down the bumps and texture from your initial application?

Any tips? I've googled but haven't found much about how people actually made these look good!
SdAufKla
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South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Friday, December 26, 2014 - 06:44 AM UTC
Rub on thinly, then buff it after it dries or as it's drying. The surface it's being applied to should be smooth, but not "slick." So, a smooth primer coat of flat white will work better than raw, white plastic.

Makeup sponges work well to put it on and to buff it, but you can use paper towel or a cloth rag. I use oval makeup sponges that I cut into shapes to fit the space on the model (like a triangle shape to get down between the teeth on tracks, etc).

If you need a higher gloss, apply a second or third coat after the first has dried and been buffed. The harder the earlier coat has dried, the better the results.

Here's a little how-to on using Rub-n-Buff (same stuff, different brand):

http://steampunk.wonderhowto.com/how-to/make-practically-anything-steampunk-using-rub-n-buff-metallic-finish-wax-0143022/

You can get a lot more control than this guy using applicators that are sized and shaped to the work surface instead of just your stubby finger. But this will give you some ideas about what you're working with.

Keep in mind that it's a wax product, so it works very similarly to any other paste wax you use to, say, polish shoes or boots, furniture or even your car.

"Wax on... wax off..."
flugwuzzi
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Lower Austria, Austria
Joined: November 02, 2007
KitMaker: 633 posts
Armorama: 599 posts
Posted: Friday, December 26, 2014 - 10:05 PM UTC
Take a look at Phil Florys News Show at 09:40 starting test of metal finishes also AK true metal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96wB9lpZZrQ

Cheers
Walter
edmund
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United States
Joined: November 10, 2014
KitMaker: 668 posts
Armorama: 456 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 27, 2014 - 05:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Rub on thinly, then buff it after it dries or as it's drying. The surface it's being applied to should be smooth, but not "slick." So, a smooth primer coat of flat white will work better than raw, white plastic.

Makeup sponges work well to put it on and to buff it, but you can use paper towel or a cloth rag. I use oval makeup sponges that I cut into shapes to fit the space on the model (like a triangle shape to get down between the teeth on tracks, etc).

If you need a higher gloss, apply a second or third coat after the first has dried and been buffed. The harder the earlier coat has dried, the better the results.

Here's a little how-to on using Rub-n-Buff (same stuff, different brand):

http://steampunk.wonderhowto.com/how-to/make-practically-anything-steampunk-using-rub-n-buff-metallic-finish-wax-0143022/

You can get a lot more control than this guy using applicators that are sized and shaped to the work surface instead of just your stubby finger. But this will give you some ideas about what you're working with.

Keep in mind that it's a wax product, so it works very similarly to any other paste wax you use to, say, polish shoes or boots, furniture or even your car.

"Wax on... wax off..."

. So that's why they have those shaped Q tips made by Tamiya and mr hobby .
slayer
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California, United States
Joined: October 01, 2011
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 95 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 27, 2014 - 07:43 AM UTC
http://youtu.be/LPNGFAgWmGU


Heres a quick video how to use the product from AK Interactive official channel on youtube. Also on the AK App theres a tech sheet thats also helpful
stooga
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Wellington, New Zealand
Joined: March 19, 2007
KitMaker: 40 posts
Armorama: 35 posts
Posted: Friday, January 16, 2015 - 02:32 PM UTC
I received a few tubes last week from HobbyEasy, and I just got around to testing them today. Results: very impressed! I had no problems getting them to cover evenly over a flat grey primer, but the consistency does take some getting used to - it would be easy to overload the brush and leave brush marks. I have so far applied and polished only one coat, but it looks great.

The differences between some of the colours are very, very subtle - unless they were side by side, I would not be able to distinguish between steel and silver, or between dark/light aluminium. I would think that a set comprising steel, one aluminium, and gun metal would be enough for all the 'silvery' finishes - you could tint them with the gun metal if you need something in between (but perhaps the differences will be more evident with a second or third coat).

An interesting cleanup point: I tested with a cheap synthetic brush, since I didn't know what it would do to the bristles. After thorough cleaning with white spirit the bristles were still decidedly grey. I then washed the brush with some dishwashing soap and water (as my grandfather taught me when he gave me a set of sables) and in 5 seconds the bristles looked brand new. I guess because it is wax based rather than an enamel, the detergent is enough to remove the last traces of the waxy base and pigment.

Fascinating product, and I look forward to trying it out for real.
communityguy
#280
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 14, 2012
KitMaker: 493 posts
Armorama: 358 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 26, 2015 - 06:27 AM UTC
Thanks, everyone! I tried them again on a model last night and was duly impressed. I really liked them!

One question: what's the right way to thin these? Water didn't seem to work as well as white spirits, but the cleanup was vastly better with a bit of water and dish soap as previously mentioned in this thread.

Thanks!
AmTrac1833
#431
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Florida, United States
Joined: February 20, 2014
KitMaker: 376 posts
Armorama: 311 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 26, 2015 - 06:57 AM UTC
I picked up some Artist's White Spirit and it works excellent. That is what was recommended on the AK "how to" video. I don't know what the difference between it and regular White Spirit is but it was on a different shelf on opposite side of the aisle. It doesn't take much either.
I've become a huge fan of True Metal stuff. Like mentioned earlier, I couldn't tell the difference between steel and iron and aluminum. Either way it takes way less effort than Alclad which is fine for the stuff I've been working on.
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