Julien,
Wow....just wow!
I definitely need to practice!
All the best mate,
Gary

Hello Chris,

I'm painting with enamels, and only use oils for washes.
That was my first serious US WW2 figure. I'll try to post the reference paints I used for the jacket and the trouser, but basically I use a basic color, and then play with washes.

I even struggle sometimes to find back the color pot I used the day before for the same job....so giving you mix ratios is like science fiction for me

Gary, many thanks for your comment. Practice and passion (and also curiosity) will make you improve your skills.

Best,
Julien

and the finished GI Joe.
I already started his buddy face. Stilla long way to go...

Best,
Julien



and the grain wood texture I partially captured on this pic

Great job on the boots, rifle ... and all-round! Looking forward to more of your work!

—mike

Julien,
You just entered the big leagues with this one mate!
Wood, leather - perfect! rest of it - perfect!
This sort of painting is something to aspire to.
Congratulations!
Now, let's see it on a nice base!
All the best,
Gary

Gary, Mike thanks a lot for you very nice comments. It's very cool when peers appreciate your work and understand all the efforts put in the painting. Gary, yes, I think my skills have improved since my last Bravo 6 figure. Let's see how far I can go

Some more pictures of the finished guy (since then I painted the laces, which were the last bit to paint).

Hi Julian and guys

This is an inspirational piece of work.

The only area I could see might benefit from another look are the eyes. The irises are very prominent, and perhaps too prominent for the scale?

The work on the clothing and boots couldn't be bettered I'm sure.

Great work Julian!

All the best

Steve

[quote]Hello,

Some pics of one of the US Gi's pair from Alpine. A real jem, I advise to every figure painter. The upper part is done, On the pics the pant is half way done. I've finished it since then. I'll post another batch of pictures as soon as there will be enough good light to take decent pictures. The scarf color is not realistic, I'll have to redo it. In between I have covered also is right eyebrow which was a bit too big.
As usual, I use enamel and oils. This time I used a lot of kind of oil filters to vary the color tones.
Hope you like this little fellow. Critics, comments and tips and of course welcomed.
Julien














[/quot

Hi, Julien, and EVERYONE ELSE, TOO! VERY NICE PAINTWORK! Beautiful definition, separation AND blending of colors where needed!!! I'll bet that we both use similar methods and techniques in our figure-painting... I started figure-painting the way that the "pros" do when I was about 17. Prior to that time, I used only "FLESH" for faces and hands, and single colors for the rest of the figure- clothes, shoes/boots, etc. I was also prone to over-emphasizing the eues, giving them that "pop-eyed" look!

I learned from a booklet by Peter J. Blum, "The MODEL SOLDIER MANUAL", Illustrated by Clyde A. Risley. (Copyright 1970) Some of our fellow modellers may remember the IMRIE-RISLEY range of 54mm figurines from the 1960s and 70s? Many years later, I bought OSPREY's "BILL HORAN'S MILITARY MODELLER MASTERCLASS from Windrow & Greene, which, IMO, is probably THE BEST figure modelling book out there... My figure-painting skills improved to some degree by purchasing this book, having already mastered the techniques described in Peter J. Blum's book. Having said that, I'd like to offer some advice in painting US WWII figures...

The following IS NOT MEANT TO BE CRITICAL, BUT HELPFUL!!

I happen to own several pairs of US WWII-issue Wool Service/Field Trousers M1937 Light Shade Olive Drab ("M1937 Light Shade Olive Drab" was to be shortly changed to OD 33 in official US Army nomenclature, as regards to EM's clothing), and an EM's Brass-Buttoned Wool Melton Overcoat. I also have several WWII-issue Wool US Army Blankets...

CAUTION!!! The items I've listed above are NOT BROWN, as some model, paint, and figure manufacturers would have you believe. This also takes into account time and aging...

To replicate the proper color, I add a little bit of BROWN to TESTORS MODEL MASTERS II FS34087 Olive Drab, to match the OD Wool shade of this clothing, or the US Army Blanket. US M1938 Leggings are NOT "BUFF", either. They are actually a pale OD. Older-issue US webbed equipment varied in shades, coming from different manufacturers, as they were. The shade can vary from a "lightened" Soviet Khaki, which faded almost into a "Dark Straw" color. Later-issue US webbed equipment was, as many of you know, a much "GREENER" color.

My advice: Pick up a copy of "The WORLD WAR II GI- US Army Uniforms 1941-1945 In Color Photographs", By Richard Windrow & Tim Hawkins. This book is a MARVELOUS source for modellers who want to recreate ACCURATELY the various types of uniforms used by WWII GIs- Officers' and EMs' Uniforms are THOROUGHLY covered in this book, in service and combat dress... BEST book on the subject, and I have quite a few of those, too...

I am also privileged to own an Officer's Belted Wool Elastique (Gabardine) Dark OD Shade 51 Service Coat and Trousers, Officer's shirts in Dark OD 51, OD 50, Drab (Pink) and Cotton Shade 1 Khaki, the Officer's Mohair Khaki, Black Service Ties, OD Shade 51 (peaked) Service and Overseas Caps. I also own a full Officer's Light Summer Weight Khaki Coat and Trousers, with the proper Light Weight Cotton Shirt, Ties, and Service & Garrison Caps. They are "fully dressed" with ALL official insignia (Including "Command Pilot's Wings) of a USAAF Major General, complete with decorations. I have the same to represent a WWII Marine Green wool (Today's "Alpha" Uniform) USMC Full Colonel, in the guise of "Marine Aviation", and a WWII US Navy Rear Admiral's Winter "Blues". The WWII version of the Navy Officer's coat has wider lapels than today's version, BTW...

Once again, NONE of this is meant to criticize anyone's work- It is meant as "FOR YOUR INFORMATION, ONLY"...
ENJOY!!!

Hello Julien,

The completed figure looks outstanding. I agree with you that your figure painting has improved. The skin tones are nice, the shadows and highlights of the folds are very well done, the equipment looks good (I don't know why Alpine would put an e-tool in the front, though. If this Infantryman had to go up hills or hit the dirt, he'd be mighty uncomfortable.), the clips pop out and are well done, the leather of the boots and the details of them look spot on, and the wood grain finish of the M1 looks excellent. I do have to agree with the comment made about the eyes, but eyes to me are the most difficult part to pull off anyway. Overall outstanding job. You get better with each figure you do and I look forward to seeing the BAR gunner that goes with this figure set when you start working on him.

Cheers!
James

JIm,
I think Alpine was going from some pics I saw from the Ardennes of GIs with the e-tool in front. They also used the empty e-tool canvas holder to carry all kinds of stuff.
J

Gary,

Superb figure! Thanks for the examples of actual equipment.

Explain oil filters to vary the color tones?

In the case of Dress, Service, and Field Uniforms, the manufacturers had to conform to specs as much as possible. In field equipment, webbed, field packs, etc, the restrictions were a bit looser...

Hey Jerry,
I know empty e-tool carriers were used to carry all kinds of stuff, but this one has the e-tool in it and that far in front is a very odd place to put it as it would impede movement. But I guess if there are photos showing it that way, then so be it. Just seems kind of odd to me. But then again, when I equip my figures, I put the real equipment on to see how it would ride for the pose of the figure and I think about how it would be to move around in it based on the activities the MOS of the figure would be engaged in. I'd hate to be patrolling with an e-tool like that up front.
Cheers,
James

Hey, thanks a lot for all the interest in that thread !

Steve: If you could know how many hours I spent on those pair of blue eyes ! Maybe they are oversized, I didn't have this impression though. Maybe it's the blue on the pic that make the eyes much bigger than they are.

Denis:wow, that's a collection ! Would it be possible that you have the real stuff equipement for the Bar Gunner that goes with the Alpine Pair ? I'm very bad at referencing, clothing etc and a little help would be more than welcomed. Here is the guy:



and don't worry, absolutely no offense taken ! As far as inspiring book, Bill Horan made me dream when I was kid. But I never followed anyone technique (find it too boring), only mine, made of tests, fails (a lot) and learn (very slow).

James: again a deep thanks for your very nice comments. I'm very productive those days eventhough I'm a newbie dad.. It's comments like yours that push me to improve and make more figures . I had the same thinking about the E Trench tool. Dangerous for Men jewels . But in addition I found it covers a great part of the figure front, which is too bad..

Frederick, I guess you mixed up Gary and I as the author of the little fellow . I guess everyone confuse names in this thread as Jerry calls James "Jim". You would be very disappointed if I would explain the oil filters "technique". You take oil, thinner, dilute a lot and then apply shade. As simple as that. No magic trick. Sorry...

All the very best guys,

Raoul

Hi, Julien! Re: Your BAR Gunner- This figure's uniform colors are "spot-on" in depicting the M1943-series clothing AFTER they have faded to a degree. The colors of the M1943-series faded to gray-ish hues, as did the HBT )Herringbone Twill) uniforms. Herringbone Twill was used by the US Army, US Marines, and the US Navy Corpsmen and Beachmasters. These were made in single-piece coveralls and two-piece versions. The color of the US HBT material was a medium GRAY-ISH GREEN, which faded VERY quickly. I like to use TESTORS MODEL MASTER II Enamel "British Interior Green" as a base color, highlighted with "RAF Sky Type-S". For D-Day, 6 June, 1944, US Paratroopers were issued "Jump Uniforms" in a color that was quite unique, when compared to the rest of WWII GI clothing. I replicate this color by lightening my acrylic "SOVIET KHAKI" with a little bit of a "basic" TAN color. I highlight this color by adding a little bit of OFF-WHITE or very pale GRAY to the mix...

I like to do my "shadow-effects" with weathering powders, which are in essence, crushed Artist's Chalk Pastels; I buy GRUMBACHER's ARTIST's CHALK PASTELS, which offer me a MUCH GREATER range of colors than what is generally available in the "established" standard range of weathering powders. (MIG, AK, etc) I use these different pastels, and judicious use of my various airbrushes, in lieu of messy washes and bogus "streaking-effects". This gives me A LOT more control over what I'm trying to achieve, which goes for my figures, armor, aircraft, HO Steam Locomotives and cars...

It should be remembered that the M1943 articles of clothing, including the M1943 Service Shoes, ("Combat Boots") didn't really start to go into service until late summer/early autumn of 1944. If you're going to be doing US Army ETO figures prior to the above-stated date, the GIs, infantry, tankers, artillery, etc, would have, for the most part, been issued the M1938 Canvas Leggings, used with the Russet Service Shoes. This is often overlooked by US figure modellers. Many US servicemen in the ETO and elsewhere were still using their Russet Service Shoes and Leggings by war's end. Later-issue Service Shoes were also manufactured with the "rough" outside finish, commonly referred to as "flesh side out". (See below)

Also, the M1943 Service Shoes were made in 2 styles- that with the "Russet" smooth leather exteriors, referred to as "flesh side in" and the "rough" exterior, referred to as "flesh side out". Being aware of this will give you some more variety in depicting US WWII Foot Gear.

The US Marines were issued the Russet Service Shoes and M1938 Canvas Leggings right up to the end of the war. Due to the scorching heat of the Pacific Theatre, many Combat Marines dispensed with the Leggings, wearing their HBT Trousers "un-bloused". GIs in the African Campaign, MTO and ETO also did this quite often, until ordered to resume wearing the Leggings. In Patton's Third Army, fines were often imposed upon GIs' non-conformance to Uniform Regulations...

I like to use FLOQUIL/POLLY SCALE or MODEL MASTER ACRYLIC "SOVIET KHAKI" as my base color for the OD Shade 33 woolen articles of clothing, adding acrylic "DEPOT OCHRE YELLOW" to the "SOVIE KHAKI" for highlighting, and my own mix of Artist's Pastel Chalks for "shadow-effects". I even use very lightly-applied BLACK pastel chalks for deep shadows-effects, with great results. A light hand is required in order to not "over-do"...

BTW, I use a technique for the eyes that many of the pros use- You don't even have to bother with the whites of the eyes and various colors of the iris'... Shep Paine pointed out that soldiers, and civilians, for that matter, tend to "squint" slightly out-of-doors, reducing the eyes to slits. I don't use WHITE AT ALL for my figures' eyes, leaving the eyeball itself in my base FLESH color. This is to depict s slightly "bloodshot" appearance, and avoids that "pop-eyed" look that plagues many figure-painters. I use a "DARK" or "SHADOW" FLESH (UMBER works fine) above the eyeball and below the eyebrow to depict "shadow".

Using DARK UMBER, I "draw" the upper and lower eyelashes in a single line over and under the eyeball, keeping the distance between the lashes VERY NARROW. To depict the iris and the pupil of the eye, I "draw" a very thin, simple, single line in the center of the eyeball, or offset to the right or left in both eyes, if I want to depict my subject looking in any other direction. Don't worry about leaving too much DARK UMBER above or below the eyball, because you're going to be using your "shadow" color to correct for this. I "clean up" my shadow area with an "eyebrow" above the upper eye shadow, and below the eyeball's lower shadow, I'll paint on a little bit of my highlighted "bright cheek color", blending as I go on to paint the rest of my figure's face.

It's generally accepted that there are about 9 steps that go into "properly" painting a face. It's been my personal experience that there are probably a dozen steps to accomplish the job, not including the special nuances of color, very gently blending DRY Artist's pastels to further enhance the subtleties of the human face.

Any other questions, feel free to ask...

WOW...excellent painting. Makes my figures look as if they were painted with a crayola in the dark.

Hi Gary, and also everyone else that's experienced some difficulty in painting scale figures. DON'T GET DISCOURAGED OR GIVE UP! Figure-painting is one of the more rewarding facets of this most entertaining hobby- And when I say "HOBBY", I mean ALL genres, whether you work on 1/35 AFVs and Soft-Skins, aircraft in any scale that include figures, cars that you can enhance with the numerous resin figures from a growing group of after-market manufacturers, and of course, the model train segment as well.

Sure, it takes time, practice and above all, patience! But why make it hard on yourself? There are numerous books, magazines, pamphlets, yes and even a DVD or two out there that can help you tremendously, by showing you all of the various techniques that you can apply to improve your figure-painting. There are also some GREAT side-benefits that will come to you by improving your figure-painting; you'll learn all kinds of tricks that you can also apply to your models and accessories, such as improving the looks of your stowage, buildings, animals, etc.

If you REEEALLY want to broaden your model-building horizons, figure-painting is a GREAT WAY to do it!!!