Hi I have a problem so I am just starting brush painting. And started on an m4 Sherman tamiya 1/48 kit. And I laid a primer down out of a rattle can. And it was a smooth finish. Then laid down acrylic olive green paint, but there are brush strokes clearly visible. I knew it might happen since I just started out again. And I was using model master brushes. Anyway how do I eliminate these and is there anyway to fix what I've already done

Hi Jared, you're on the right track, a primer coat helps a lot when brush painting. A few tips, use decent brushes, look for a couple mid grade artists brushes. You don't need many, really only a larger brush for base coats and a smaller detail brush to start, if you take care of them they'll last quite a while. Use multiple thinner coats and build up a base rather than all in one heavy coat, this is most likely where your brush marks are coming from.
Hope this helps a bit.
Eric.

Thanks now let me ask this. Now I think my problem was a too thick of a coat. But when I did a lighter coat it was spotted has lighter areas and darker areas where paint was running out on brush should I have left it like this and added another coat later after it dried. Bc what I did is add paint until it looked like even color with no light spots. Another thing is the paint was drying on my brush is this normal and thanks for any info I love this hobby. I got out bc I used airbrush and it stunk up the house even with windows open and shed got packed full. So now I'm relearning with brushes which I've never done before so please bear with me. At least with brushes you don't have an Odor

What paint are you using?

Jared, I'm expecting you to say you're using Tamiya paints, which are quite hard to brush paint, but even with any acrylic paints, you need to have them well thinned and expect to put on thin coats that will be translucent. Tamiya paints you should obtain Tamiya thinners for, most other acrylics you can use just water. Build up the coats waiting for each to dry first, doesn't take too long, 5/10 minutes if thin layer of paint.
Now, very useful thing is to obtain retarder and mix in about 10-20% of that to paint, so maybe for 5 drops of paint use 1 drop of retarder and 1 or 2 of water. That will prevent so much drying on the brush and allow to spread a little better while brushing. If the paint dries on the brush, rinse it in water and wipe off on a tissue then continue. Always have some water handy and keep rinsing and wiping the brush.
Retarder can be obtained from art stores, a common make being Liquitex, who make artists acrylics, and this is what it is designed for - slowing the drying time of acrylic paint, so don't worry about asking for it!
To undo what you've done... Maybe now it's dry you could try another thin coat. To remove acrylic paint you could use nail varnish remover. Dab that on and wipe and absorb off with tissues.
Airbrushing indoors sounds like a no no unless you have an extractor. Make some room in the shed, and make sure to wear a paint mask even if just using acrylic.
Of course, for brush painting, you could try enamel paint which is much more forgiving and easier to get an even finish with.
Good luck.

Thanks for replies. Actually I am using testors acrylic paint. I tried asking my local hobby shop this info before starting but they are primarily an rc store and didn't know a whole lot. Now when you say retarder could that be considered paint thinner. And actually this morning since it has dried completely the paint looks a lot smoother and better but I'll probably leave it the way it is. This being my first model Ive done in a while I can track my progress that way. Another question i have is acrylic or enamel better for brushing on

Jared

Well to give you my answer your last question.

When it comes to brush painting I am a big fan of Enamels. Especially those of the Humbrol range. Great color range, brushes on smooth, dries smooth and with the formula they use these days for their flat paints they do dry flat flat. And they dry relatively quick too. Works very well in my opinion.

Yeah, I did mention enamels at the end

One thing, retarder isn't the same as thinners. It makes the paint dry more slowly by slowing the curing process by some chemical intervention, not by there simply being more water. Use it sparingly or it can prevent the paint ever curing properly, but a small amount allows you to brush over the paint a few times without that annoying effect where you're pulling up paint that you just applied.

Testors Model Master Acrylic? Get some of their Acrylic thinner, get a big brush, some sponges, paper towel...lay down a good coat of thinner , let it soften the coat of paint...now gently go over it with your sponges to get rid of brush marks...while the thinner is still moist on the model...mix new paint up..thin it 25% paint 75% thinner..use a big brush..slap the paint on..at the same time working with your sponges etc..to even the coat & spread out the paint. This is just to "fix" this coat. The next time, use very thin paint & do multiple coats. You want the paint translucent. Now you can use dif size brushes.Every coat will darken the paint up & cover but it will also let you control the depth instead of using one coat which will look monochromatic..unreal. You will get variation in your color depth.Patience is a virtue.
My opinion.
Buy an airbrush.

Thanks for info guys I appreciate it. Actually I had a very nice airbrush and used it a long time. However my building got so full I run out of work space. So I tred to airbrush in home with windows open and fans but fumes were terrible. So I sold airbrush. And went a year or so without modeling waiting to build another building just for modeling. And I went to a friends house to see him brush painting and there was no smell so I bought a workstation to put my brushes paint etc in and hove bought 5 different brushes. I am wanting to learn to brush now so I can do this in my home.