Hi Fellas:
My work in progress with the old dragon version of the T 34/85 model kit # 6203. Plastic is very fragile so from the start I broke a lot of parts. But later on its was all ok. Mine took a weekend to built.
I wanted to show some really sagged tracks, I wanted something out of traditional look.
Here the pictures, almost Out of Box, only a metal barrel was added and handles were replace with plastruct 0.8mm hex rod.
Hosted by Jacques Duquette
1/35 T34/85 UTZ MOD 1944 version from dragon
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Monday, February 16, 2015 - 06:18 PM UTC
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Monday, February 16, 2015 - 06:20 PM UTC
catdude01
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Posted: Monday, February 16, 2015 - 06:21 PM UTC
pgb3476
Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, February 16, 2015 - 06:29 PM UTC
Is the commanders hatch from a different kit or resin?
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Monday, February 16, 2015 - 06:45 PM UTC
No its Out of the box, but I must say, there was a lot of sprue from different kits, including t-34/76 parts!
pgb3476
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 - 07:29 PM UTC
Looks like a different color and thought maybe you had a resin one of some sort.
Viper_msk
Moscow City, Russia
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 - 11:11 PM UTC
Hi Pedro,
I hate to say this, but this sag on the tracks is simply way overdone. No real tank would be able to move with it - as the tracks will fall off right during the first turn.
Another thing - the front hooks on the turret should be vertical.
I hate to say this, but this sag on the tracks is simply way overdone. No real tank would be able to move with it - as the tracks will fall off right during the first turn.
Another thing - the front hooks on the turret should be vertical.
RLlockie
United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 - 11:22 PM UTC
I'd have to agree about the track tension. Never seen a real T-34 with track that loose.
It's also worth noting by anyone building a T-34 that if those two periscope covers and the driver's hatch itself are closed, the driver is completely blind. OK for a static model but I see quite a few apparently moving T-34s in dioramas and they look very strange!
It's also worth noting by anyone building a T-34 that if those two periscope covers and the driver's hatch itself are closed, the driver is completely blind. OK for a static model but I see quite a few apparently moving T-34s in dioramas and they look very strange!
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 - 11:28 PM UTC
Thanks Phil for the Feedback, I will check on the hooks, they looked weird to me anyway!.
Yeah I really know the tracks are WAY overdone, never seen one like this in a Russian tank. I just wanted to do something different.
Suggestions? probably the only one is to simulate it as a destroyed tank removing some of the tracks as well.
Yeah I really know the tracks are WAY overdone, never seen one like this in a Russian tank. I just wanted to do something different.
Suggestions? probably the only one is to simulate it as a destroyed tank removing some of the tracks as well.
Viper_msk
Moscow City, Russia
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 - 11:37 PM UTC
I don't think you have any other option than just redoing the tracks...
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 05:20 PM UTC
Well last night I remove the tracks and using tamiya thin glue I soften the plastic and put it back again to the kit. This was my result.
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 05:24 PM UTC
The next step was a grey primer, then next day a work of light and shadows using Tamiya XF-1 and XF-2. Here the results so far.
catdude01
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 06:22 AM UTC
ew update.
Now with Black and white acrylic paint I added highlights and details on areas with more visibility, handles, borders, bolts, etc. Here the results so far.
Once I add the base color in thin coats, all this details will show THROUGH the layers .
Now with Black and white acrylic paint I added highlights and details on areas with more visibility, handles, borders, bolts, etc. Here the results so far.
Once I add the base color in thin coats, all this details will show THROUGH the layers .
UGBEAR
Canada
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 07:38 AM UTC
quick question, how can you bend the plastic tubes? in heated water?
catdude01
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 10:53 PM UTC
No clue, this ones come like this from the box.
catdude01
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 10:58 PM UTC
More detail added, this time thinning down acrylics, white, black grey and black. This will also gave you the idea of what you want with the final colors.
catdude01
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Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 05:41 PM UTC
Started the base color in a very thinned mix, 4-5 coats. This are the colors used for the initial mix.
catdude01
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Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 05:44 PM UTC
After 2 hours I run with a lighter mix, very thinned in 3-4 coats and only in the upper areas.
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 05:45 PM UTC
2 hours later I use raw umber as a filter applied to the whole kit.
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 05:47 PM UTC
the results later today after 12 hours drying.
pgb3476
Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 06:52 PM UTC
Looks great, I like it.
SDavies
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 07:30 PM UTC
Very good looking tank
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 07:17 PM UTC
Update! I worked some mud texture using a product from tamiya, so far so good, here the results.
catdude01
Puerto Rico
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Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 07:18 PM UTC
Now with a Kursk mud color.
210cav
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Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 07:49 PM UTC
Pedro-- wow! Very nicely done
DJ
DJ