Not any big deal, but I got the new Dragon M1A2 SEP V2 with the CROWS II in the mail today! This is now my 6th in the Dragon M1 series, with 3 M1A1 AIMs, 2 M1A2s, and now this one. I also just got 5 sets of the Bronco M1A1/A2 MBT T-158LL 'Big Foot' workable tracks, one short of one for each of the tanks. However, I have a set of the AFV Club tracks, and I can always use the rubber tracks from one of them if necessary.

So far, I'm about 80% done with the first M1A1 AIM, but had terrible luck with the supplied Magic Tracks. I thought I'd found a way to get them to work, but they fell apart as I was trying to paint/weather them. I know that many of you love Magic Tracks, but they aren't for me. Of course, while the Bronco tracks are super detailed, and work great, they look like a huge amount of work. 6 pieces of plastic for each link (4 separate pads, the center part, and an individual track guide, EACH!) But it should make for really nice tracks when done.

I need to get working on the tracks, so I can get my first M1 finished. I made a lot of mistakes with that one, and have learned a lot! The rest of my M1 herd should go a lot better, and be far closer to perfect than the first one!

Good to hear!

I do not like the magic track either, I find they don't sit properly around the sprocket. I also used bronco tracks on my last M1 and they look really good.



cheers

Magic Tracks in AIM kit were the only parts in the entire kit that were not newly designed and tooled. They were re-used from Dragon's earlier M1 Panther II kit unfortunately... They not only are not easy to assmemble, they are also inaccurate (the size of guide horns is significantly off).

So yes, I would suggest replacing them with some aftermarket tracks.

Don't be afraid of the DS tracks from the SEP kits though - they work very well (you may just want to shorten them slightly) and are better detailed than some AM tracks.

I have done one side worth of the Bronco track so far. Just pecking at it as I find a 10 min quiet block of time. They are so good looking that I hate to try the abrading and wear to the rubber pad areas! I like the results to this point.

Does this kit contain all the sprues from the 'old' M1A2 SEP (3536) kit?

Yes.

Thanks!

Hi, Curt! yeah, those DRAGON M1s can be a bit challenging sometimes, but once you "get the lay of the land" with your first one, your following M1s will go A LOT easier for you, having worked out all the bugs on your first try. It did, for me, anyway. As time goes on, I think you'll develop a real understanding of how GOOD the later-series DRAGON M1 kits really are. Their "earlier M1s are the "Dragon" Mine Removal Vehicle, and their USMC M1HA kits- quite a few inaccuracies there; I'd only use the Mine Removal Vehicle as a"donor-kit" for the M1A1. The BEST newer DRAGON M1 kits are #s 3535, 3536, 3546...

Regarding your tracks: Be CAREFUL if you're thinking of using the AFV CLUB Tracks- They suffer from VERY WEAK connection points. Plus, they have some rather annoying "knock-outs" on the inside surfaces of the track pads. You may find that the AFV CLUB Tracks will tend to "fall apart" as you've found with your M1 "Magic Tracks". "Magic Tracks" are OK with DRAGON's larger WWII German tanks such as their Tiger Is and IIs, and their Panther-series. "Magic Tracks" are more troublesome once you start getting into the smaller German WWII types. I'm mostly an US/Allied fan, 1916-present day, so "Magic Tracks" are not a big issue for me...

You may even find that you'll want to build a "repeat" of your first M1, the operative word being "may"... ENJOY!!!

Thanks for the replies to my post, all. I've started to put together a few links of the Bronco tracks, and they ARE a challenge, but they work and look GREAT! Though I must also say that the DS tracks in the SEP kit look fine as well, and will probably be just as nice when painted and weathered.

@ Dennis, you are very much correct...that first AIM was a challenge, and it's still sitting at 80%, the first coat of sand paint competed, with another coat (or two) remaining to get all of the 'nooks and crannies' covered with paint. I actually took quite some time in assembling it, so I managed to do a decent job (I think), but I definitely know where the pitfalls are, and there are a few cases where the order of assembly will change on all the rest of these tanks that I assemble, in order to make some of the parts fit together better. After all the work I put into this first one, though, while I've seriously considered just setting it aside, considering it just a 'learner's version', it seems such a shame to not finish it. It won't be up to the standard of the next ones, I'm sure. Thanks for the thoughts. I can certainly see your point about the AFV Club tracks. Despite the tedium of putting the Bronco tracks together, I think I'll stick with those, and only use the AFV tracks if I don't have enough Broncos to go around. Turns out, I actually have 5 M1A1 AIM kits (I can't believe I wasn't even aware of two additional ones!), PLUS the 2 SEPs and now the SEP V2. So, I should have enough Bronco tracks to go around.

One thing that is frustrating, though, is the amazing work that so many people have done on their M! tanks, and apparently on their first build. I am thoroughly amazed (I am thinking, in particular, about the tanks that guys built for the 'Thunder Run' group build), while my poor first M1 is in a sorry state and not complete, over two years since I started it. Maybe I'll take pictures of it and see what folks think of it. I know I'm not thrilled with the work I've done so far. But I definitely will be making more of these...I guess I had that in mind, given the number of kits I've accumulated!

Hi Curt,
something to consider, either to make your Bronco tracks go further or to save yourself some assembly work, would be only model what isn't hidden by the side skirts.

Sean

Sean,

Thanks for that thought! I plan to use the full sets of skirts for most of my tanks, so you've made an excellent recommendation. No point in having tracks in place where they will never be seen!

It must be a great kit from Dragon . I just wonder was the CROWS II system ever used on a M1A1 variant like AIM or any other?

Hi, Curt! When I built my first "AIM", I built only enough of the AFV CLUB Tracks which would be seen if you looked at the tank from the sides, and fore and/or aft, since most M1s that I've seen in photos have the sand shields in their normal positions, i.e, deployed. I've done that with WWII German Panthers, Tiger Is and Tiger IIs, as well. I have no plans to build any of my M1s in a "maintenance"-type of dio, since I don't generally build dios because of my home's space constraints. My second "AIM" was built using the BRONCO M1 Track Set...

It is moot that on my M1A2 SEPs, I used the "DS" Tracks, which are the easiest, and YES, they DO LOOK GREAT!!!

BTW, I've used the "DS" tracks on ALL of my M3 and M4-series Mediums, and their derivatives. That includes a couple of TAMIYA M4s, a WHOLE BOATLOAD of DRAGON M4s, 3 or 4 ASUKA/TASCA M4A1s, M4A3s, a WWII M4A3E8, an M4A3E2 "Jumbo" and one each M32B1 and M32B3 ARVs. I built one each of an M3 "Lee" and British "Grant", for which I used the ACADEMY M3 kits as donors, with the LEGEND Conversion kits, my ACADEMY M12, and my 2 AFV CLUB M10 TDs, and last, but not least, my T2/M31 ARV, once again using the ACADEMY M3 "Lee" as a donor kit, with a CALIBRE 35 T2/M31 ARV Conversion Kit... Whew!!! In total, I have 32 or 33 M3/M4-based tanks and derivatives in my collection of US/Allied armor.

Some years back, CYBERHOBBY/DRAGON made available "early", "mid", and "late"-production M3/M4 VVSS Suspension "Update" kits which comprised of bogie assemblies, wheels and "DS" Tracks. I managed to buy 9 or 10 of these, using them on many of my builds. Then, all of a sudden, CYBERHOBBY/DRAGON decided to dis-continue t5hese kits. Fortunately, ASUKA/TASCA came out with their own versions of the same Track, Bogies, and Wheels "update" kits. These are GREAT, if you ever want to go nuts with building M3/M4-series tanks or derivatives of same!

A LOT of the German WWII fans don't like DRAGON's "DS" Tracks, because supposedly, they can't simulate the "track sag" that is seen on most of the WWII German stuff. All I have to say to that is that they just don't seem to want to do a little bit "research" or experimentation in order to make the "DS" Tracks work.

I've posted my technique on creating "track sag" with "DS" Tracks on this site several times, with no response from ANY of the guys that love to put the "DS" Tracks down as "no good" or "useless". A LOT of those "Magic Tracks" can be just as frustrating as some of the old MODEL KASTEN and AFV CLUB "Workable" Tracks, i.e, the attachment points like to self-destruct, coming apart at the most crucial times in the assembly process. But that's OK- They're "MAGIC TRACKS", therefore that makes them great!!!

I've successfully created "track-sag" on German Panthers, Tiger Is, and Tiger IIs, using "DS" Tracks, but that doesn't count, because it runs against the grain...

That's OK- I'm not a "PANZER-NUT", so there's that. Give me the US/Allied stuff, anytime!!!

No, the CROWS II is only used on the latest M1A2 SEP v2 tanks. The addition of the CROWS II in place of the standard Improved Commander's Weapons Station (ICWS) is what makes it a v2 variant.

Thanks a lot! I am trying to search in the web what Afvs use the crows II system in order to decide what can i do with my spare Blast CROWS II conversion! I also noticed in the instructions that the extended bustle rack in the back (steps 18 and 19) is optional? Is that correct? See below step 19: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10297205z7/70/7

The folding BRE is issued with the tank and usually stays on them. It can be removed if desired though.

Got mine too! Going to be weird doing an M1 in NATO colours again after doing desertized subjects for so long.

I'll agree with that! However, I DID build one of my USMC "AIMs" in the tri-color scheme, with a heavy dusting, depicting an M1 in the earlier stages of OIF, 2003... That gives me at least a little bit of "variety"... One can always build a "back-dated" or a prior to "desertized" version of an M1, as well...