https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2_YEoGunu0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6gI9ljJsdo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5BAqPQCpGg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr4mFzEftXU

Thanks Paul for a VERY informative series. A+ for production !

HUGE thanks! These videos are truly great!

One question though about the primer application. As far as I understood, your video refers to working with lacquer primers only. Is that correct?

Thanks Phil
The primer video is about half equipment and half technique. It applies to any material over a large area. I happen to like automotive lacquer because it really sticks to plastic, sands great, and is inexpensive in relation to model paints. The problem is, it doesn't work well through an airbrush and if you were trying to prime a 1/35 scale tank with it using a typical airbrush, you'd have a surface that was rougher than a cob with no way to sand it out. All because of the overspray issue. So using the correct tool, in the correct way, you get a wet coat on ... and a smooth surface of great material. The same principle applies to other materials as well, but most modelers aren't that critical so they think they are getting "acceptable" results with something that is more forgiving and with a technique, that I hate to say, looks like someone coloring with a crayon. Yet they will rave about the surface they get from a can of Tamiya primer without realizing that a big part of the equation is the spray can. The automotive lacquer primer has much better adhesion than the Tamiya primer or Mr Surfacer, so one way to use it is to apply a very thin coat, just enough to add a thin see-through coat over the entire model to give something for an acrylic paint to really stick to. Much like micro etching the surface. So using a miniature gun properly improves painting large areas with your normal paint as well as allow you to explore using different materials ... like the automotive lacquer primer. Hope this makes sense, Paul