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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Testors Lusterless Flat Problem
retiredyank
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 04:30 PM UTC
I just tried Testors Lusterless Flat rattle can. The kit had been sealed, with Dull Coat and another coat of Future on top of it. The rattle can stuff burned right through the paint, with one light pass. Am I doing something wrong or should I stick to the bottled stuff?
tnker101
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 05:12 PM UTC
Never had a problem with testors. Just maybe it reacted with the future or dull coat.
retiredyank
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 06:46 PM UTC
It's a little upsetting, as I had spent two months on the build; and it was the last step, before going up for sale.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 07:32 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I just tried Testors Lusterless Flat rattle can. The kit had been sealed, with Dull Coat and another coat of Future on top of it. The rattle can stuff burned right through the paint, with one light pass. Am I doing something wrong or should I stick to the bottled stuff?



How long did you wait between your spray-coats of TESTORS DULLCOAT, FUTURE and TESTORS 1960 LUSTERLESS FLAT? Ideally, YOU SHOULD WAIT, at the VERY LEAST, 24 HOURS BETWEEN SPRAYING ANY "RATTLE CAN" SPRAY MEDIUMS. Personally, I wait 48 hours, just to make sure...

The ACTUAL SURFACE FINISH of your subject may also adversely affect your "rattle can" FLAT SPRAY's finish during and after it has been sprayed on your subject- OILY, MINERAL-BASED OVERALL WASHES CAN AND WILL AFFECT the results of your "rattle can" SPRAY FLATS. Most "rattle can" and bottled "For Airbrush Use Only" FLATS ARE LACQUER-BASED, which are much "hotter" in their chemical compositions than ENAMELS, PETROLEUM-BASED WASHES, AND ACRYLIC PAINTS. Washing your subject in a mild solution of luke-warm water and dish washing liquid, and then rinsing with luke-warm, clear water should help in removing the oily residues left behind by overall washes. Personally, I HEARTILY DISLIKE OVERALL WASHES, and I NEVER USE THEM.- They're messy and IMO, wholly un-necessary. I've found, in my own experience, that I can achieve the same (or better, for that matter) results by judicious use of my airbrushes and finely crushed Artist's Pastel Chalks and/or Weathering Powders, followed by a suitable sealer coat of DULLCOAT or LUSTERLESS FLAT. I also don't subscribe to the use of a half-dozen filters, aside of a spray coat of "dust"...

The AGE of your TESTORS FLATS may also make a difference. If you haven't used your TESTORS Flats in a while, the flattening agents settle at the bottom of the spray can, which even vigorous shaking may not dislodge. I ALWAYS shake my spray can paints, making sure that the ball rattles freely inside the can. IRREGARDLESS of the manufacturer, I will shake the can for AT LEAST 2 FULL MINUTES before spraying...

I ALWAYS test-spray on scrap before actually spraying my subject with ANY "rattle can" product. Even then, I will test spray on the BOTTOM of my subject first, and wait for the test surface to dry, before I spray any of the top surfaces...

I MIST my coats of "rattle can" spray paints AND FLATS- TESTORS "rattle can" SPRAY FLATS are THICKER in composition than the thinned FLATS that you would use with your airbrush, therefore you need a "light hand" when you use ANY "rattle can" product...

ALWAYS MAINTAIN THE PROPER DISTANCE between your subject and your "rattle can" sprays. READ the instructions on the can's label BEFORE you spray. Invariably, the directions will recommend the proper distance that you should maintain in accordance with the specific product that you are using...

NEVER PAUSE in your HORIZONTAL spray-pattern, maintaining a continuous pass vis-a-vis your subject. Pausing may result in an un-even coat, which may even cause runs and/or "orange-peeling" of your paint surface...

NEVER start your spray pattern with "rattle can" sprays directly on your subject- begin your spray pattern a few inches before your subject, and continue past it by a few inches...

ALWAYS MAINTAIN A SUFFICIENT DRYING TIME BETWEEN COATS- 24 HOURS MINIMUM. As I stated above, I ALWAYS allow 48 hours between my coats...

HUMIDITY is also a factor. I avoid spraying "rattle can" paints on HUMID DAYS. EXCESS HUMIDITY CAN AND WILL AFFECT YOUR FINISH, ESPECIALLY WITH "RATTLE CAN" FLAT SPRAYS!!! Humidity will also affect drying-time with FUTURE, so SUFFICIENT DRYING TIME IS IMPERATIVE BETWEEN SPRAY-COATS OF DIFFERENT MEDIUMS...

Hope this little bit of basic info will help you in your spray-painting efforts...

MLD
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 07:37 PM UTC
I have had Testors rattlecan Dullcoat and Glosscoat destroy well cured Gunze Sanyo acrylic paint finishes, so much so that if I paint something with Gunze I have to put a note with the kit so I dont do it again!

I dont think I have had the problem with testors finishing products on top of already sealed paint coats though.
panzerbob01
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 07:38 PM UTC
Sounds like you have applied a rattle lacquer with acetone as a vehicle onto what amounts to some acrylic surface (Future) - and there was a reaction.

What a bummer!

I'm guessing that the reaction you have seen is pretty "stock-model" for this type of mix - maybe someone can address the real question of what paints / layers may be safely covered with this stuff and identify the cases where one should not use this product? Sounds like it's a "no-no" on Future!

Bob
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 08:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Sounds like you have applied a rattle lacquer with acetone as a vehicle onto what amounts to some acrylic surface (Future) - and there was a reaction.

What a bummer!

I'm guessing that the reaction you have seen is pretty "stock-model" for this type of mix - maybe someone can address the real question of what paints / layers may be safely covered with this stuff and identify the cases where one should not use this product? Sounds like it's a "no-no" on Future!

Bob



I tend to agree- Personally, I only use FUTURE on clear parts, such as the canopies on my 1/48 aircraft, or clear parts on my 1/24-1/25 cars... A dip in FUTURE will "clear up" most plastic transparencies, providing a much better appearance.

As far as providing smooth, glossy surfaces as a base for the application of decals or dry-transfers, I like to use the various TESTORS or TAMIYA CLEARS...
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 08:31 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I have had Testors rattlecan Dullcoat and Glosscoat destroy well cured Gunze Sanyo acrylic paint finishes, so much so that if I paint something with Gunze I have to put a note with the kit so I dont do it again!

I dont think I have had the problem with testors finishing products on top of already sealed paint coats though.



My cure for the use of GUNZE paints is simple- I DON'T USE THEM!!! They're more expensive, and I don't have much luck in trying to find them. I make-do with my own mixes of TESTORS MODEL MASTER II ENAMELS, and in acrylics, FLOQUIL/POLLYSCALE/TESTORS and TAMIYA. In "rattle can" sprays, I prefer TAMIYA over TESTORS, not to say that TESTORS SPRAYS are bad... I DO like TESTORS DULLCOAT and LUSTERLESS FLAT sprays, about as much as I do the various TAMIYA CLEARS...
cdharwins
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 08:41 PM UTC
I've used Testors Lusterless spray cans lots of times over enamels, Future and acrylics. Maybe you sprayed it on too thick? Light layers are best. Is it an old can?

Perhaps you can post a picture? That might help with the "diagnosis".

Chris
pespada
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 08:53 PM UTC
What brand of Dull Coat did you use? It seems like the Dull Coat followed by Future then the Testors Lusterless Flat is a bit of overkill anyway. In any event, light passes of the Lusterless flat, always moving and from at least 8-12 inches, should keep it from concentrating. My guess is that there was some bad reaction among the Dull Coat, Future, and the Lusterless Flat.
iowabrit
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 09:05 PM UTC
I wouldn't touch that testors stuff with a 10 foot bargepole...WAY too aggresive. I use the modelmaster acrylic matt varnish mixed with a little semi gloss and a retarder shot through an airbrush as a final coat. The retarder helps avoid the 'white powder' problem and generally it works well but even then you have to be careful to avoid build ups.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 09:18 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I wouldn't touch that testors stuff with a 10 foot bargepole...WAY too aggresive. I use the modelmaster acrylic matt varnish mixed with a little semi gloss and a retarder shot through an airbrush as a final coat. The retarder helps avoid the 'white powder' problem and generally it works well but even then you have to be careful to avoid build ups.



Sounds like a safe bet, but I haven't had any problems with the TESTORS or TAMIYA Lacquer-based Spray-Flats personally, since I religiously follow my own set rules when using them. I just might try your method to see how I like it, though... Who csays you can't teach an old dog new tricks?

PS- I've heard other modellers complain about the use of TAMIYA bottled ACRYLIC FLAT shot through their airbrushes- I understand that the bottled TAMIYA CLEAR GLOSS, CLEAR SEMI MATTE and CLEAR FLAT are meant to be used as ADDITIVES to their other bottled paints... ???

PPS- What are you using as a "retarder"?
stoney
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 09:25 PM UTC
Thats right Dennis they're not to be used on their own. You can mix Tamiya flat with future and Ive had it work well enough a few times, but an unwanted whitewash on a halftrack led me to try the Vallejo acrylic clears, pretty happy with them.
Eric.
iowabrit
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 09:49 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I wouldn't touch that testors stuff with a 10 foot bargepole...WAY too aggresive. I use the modelmaster acrylic matt varnish mixed with a little semi gloss and a retarder shot through an airbrush as a final coat. The retarder helps avoid the 'white powder' problem and generally it works well but even then you have to be careful to avoid build ups.



Sounds like a safe bet, but I haven't had any problems with the TESTORS or TAMIYA Lacquer-based Spray-Flats personally, since I religiously follow my own set rules when using them. I just might try your method to see how I like it, though... Who csays you can't teach an old dog new tricks?

PS- I've heard other modellers complain about the use of TAMIYA bottled ACRYLIC FLAT shot through their airbrushes- I understand that the bottled TAMIYA CLEAR GLOSS, CLEAR SEMI MATTE and CLEAR FLAT are meant to be used as ADDITIVES to their other bottled paints... ???

PPS- What are you using as a "retarder"?


Badger ACCU flex extender though I don't know if that's still available, I've had my bottle for years and it's almost run out. I also have some Liquitex Flow Aid as a back up but I havent tried it yet
retiredyank
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 09:59 PM UTC
I also received a bottle of Micro-scale clear satin. There was a period of a full week, in between coats. When lusterless dried, it turned glossy. I used Tamiya acryls, followed by a coat of Future, then Testors Dull Coat(bottle). I went back and did some post shading. So, I had to reapply the wash, which meant another coat of Future. I then used the Lusterless stuff. I believe it will be relegated to the back of my paint shelf. I'm not even sure if I can salvage the build. I would have to go back to a base coat, over a heavy application of pigment.

Sorry for the picture quality. This is the worst of the damage. As you can see, the pigment did not burn off completely. Luckily, I am well stocked in Dull Coat and Micro-scale satin.
iowabrit
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 10:08 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I wouldn't touch that testors stuff with a 10 foot bargepole...WAY too aggresive. I use the modelmaster acrylic matt varnish mixed with a little semi gloss and a retarder shot through an airbrush as a final coat. The retarder helps avoid the 'white powder' problem and generally it works well but even then you have to be careful to avoid build ups.



Sounds like a safe bet, but I haven't had any problems with the TESTORS or TAMIYA Lacquer-based Spray-Flats personally, since I religiously follow my own set rules when using them. I just might try your method to see how I like it, though... Who csays you can't teach an old dog new tricks?

PS- I've heard other modellers complain about the use of TAMIYA bottled ACRYLIC FLAT shot through their airbrushes- I understand that the bottled TAMIYA CLEAR GLOSS, CLEAR SEMI MATTE and CLEAR FLAT are meant to be used as ADDITIVES to their other bottled paints... ???

PPS- What are you using as a "retarder"?


Badger ACCU flex extender though I don't know if that's still available, I've had my bottle for years and it's almost run out. I also have some Liquitex Flow Aid as a back up but I havent tried it yet



I did some research and it seems the badger stuff is now called Model flex extender and is available from http://www.modelflexpaint.com/index.html
not sure if it's made to the same recipe though...
pespada
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 10:15 PM UTC
Might be wise to contact Testors and see what they have to say--show them the picture, too.
retiredyank
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 10:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Might be wise to contact Testors and see what they have to say--show them the picture, too.



Hadn't thought of that. At least, I may find out the reason for this. Although, I don't expect they would refund it. And, I can't put a price on time spent.
pespada
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 10:52 PM UTC
These manufacturers tend to sell their goods with little if any warranty--in other words, use at your own risk. I guess from their standpoint, there are too many use variables for them to control. I'm sure they test, but they can't test for EVERYthing. Good luck!
retiredyank
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 11:04 PM UTC
I'm thinking that I will be giving this can away. Shipped in US - free
Grauwolf
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Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 12:51 AM UTC
Hi Matt,

This might help with the overcoat issues that some have experienced.

I asked Testors the question regarding clarifying the use of these 2 products

DULLCOAT and LUSTERLESS FLAT and this is the answer straight from the
producer of these 2 products:


Hi Joe,

Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support.

No the Testors Dullcote and Model Master Lusterless Flat are not the same.

The Dullcote is specially formulated to be able to go over any Testor acrylic, enamel or lacquer.

The Model Master can only be applied over enamel and lacquer in the Testor or Model Master lines.

If you have any additional questions or concerns please do not hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,
Beth F.


Hope this helps,

Cheers,
Joe
retiredyank
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Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 02:00 PM UTC
That was informative. Guess I have a can of unusable paint.
edmund
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Posted: Friday, March 13, 2015 - 07:30 AM UTC
Be a pack rat keep it , you never know when you might need it .
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, March 13, 2015 - 08:54 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Be a pack rat keep it , you never know when you might need it .



I COMPLETELY agree with Edmund! You can still use TESTORS DULLCOTE and LUSTERLESS FLAT on future projects, provided that you use TESTORS MODEL MASTER II products...
retiredyank
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Posted: Friday, March 13, 2015 - 10:41 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Be a pack rat keep it , you never know when you might need it .



I COMPLETELY agree with Edmund! You can still use TESTORS DULLCOTE and LUSTERLESS FLAT on future projects, provided that you use TESTORS MODEL MASTER II products...



I try not to run solvent based paints through my airbrush.
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