I am getting ready to build trumpeters M1129 Stryker mortar carrier and im curious about the interior color as the model has a full interior, I know the M2 Bradly and M113A3 has that light green color , the instructions say white for the interior and i just want to confirm that.
And my second question is the no slip surface is it the same pattern across all varients of the stryker and was it applied to the hatches over the mortar

The interior is white, as it is on all Strykers. The gun and its parts are all NATO green though.



There should be anti-slip on the outside of the mortar hatches as well.

Again, I will promote my Stryker walk around with over 1000 photos. The mortar carrier is the one I probably documented more than any other version, both inside and out. There are details missing in the kit you can add, as well as using it as an excellent painting guide. Parts of the mortar are natural metal. This walk around takes away the guesswork.

what did they forget to add?

Also have a look Here.

Cheers,
Jim

the interior is it a flat or gloss white
and from what i can tell the floor has a non slip black coating is that correct?

The original posting is 5+ years old but a good one.
I saw that there was some interest in a Stryker Campaign so I dug out my Trumpeter M1129 Mortar Carrier to do some background searches and came across this thread.
Thanks Nick for posting, Gino, Jim & Robert for the images.
Nick, did you ever complete this vehicle? if so, how was it as far as fit & accuracy?
Thanks guys !

Biggest problem with ALL Trumpeter Strykers are the dimensions. Model is too long and too narrow. For an authentic M1129 you need to kitbash it with AFV Club M1126, But this requires some major surgery.

I’ve got an 1129 stalled right now because I want to fill the ammo racks, anybody got a link to pics of all those racks full of whatever goes in them?

Thanks HH. I'm going pretty much OOB on this. I'm not a Doctor of Plastic Surgery. Some cabling, scratching a box or two that's about my speed AND fear ! Fear of throwing a $100 in the trash if I fail.
Thanks again for the heads up !

Hi James,

Well, I didn’t have a photo of the filled racks, but I know how the ammo should be stored:

The MCV is capable of storing sixty 120 mm rounds stored within their individual round containers. The left rear side of the vehicle contains a 120mm rack that is capable of storing 48 120mm rounds, 24 horizontal and 24 vertical.
The right side has a flex rack that is capable of storing 12 rounds of 120mm motor ammunition. The right side flex rack is also capable of storing 35, 81mm rounds. On the 120mm and 81mm flex rack located in the right side of the MCV, mortar rounds are held in place by using webbed straps that tighten around the ammunition to provide a positive means of holding the rounds in place

The right ammunition rack can be configured to store 120-mm, 81-mm, or 60-mm ammunition.

1. When the rack is configured for 120-mm, it has four vertical compartments. It can hold three rounds in each of the four compartments for a total of 12 rounds.
2. When the rack is configured for 81-mm, it has one horizontal compartment and six vertical compartments. It can hold five rounds in each of the seven compartments for a total of 35 rounds.
3. When the rack is configured for 60-mm ammunition, it has two vertical compartments and nine horizontal compartments. It can hold seven rounds in each of the eleven compartments for a total of 77 rounds.


A big problem is the scale of the ammo. An actual ammo canister has the following dimensions: diameter = 5.43 inch, length = 30.46 inch.
The length is not a problem, but the diameter is!
On the left rear side the space between the shelves is just 3.5mm. Therefore, instead of making the canisters out of 4mm tubes, you will have to use 3,2mm tubes (Evergreen).
As well the rack in front: The vertical compartments just allow 3,2mm tubes.
On the right side you have to modify the rack, to get the four necessary compartments for the 12 rounds.

To put it in one sentence:
All of the three racks have no space for 4 mm ammo canisters, just for 3.2mm tubes!!!!!

Hope I could help!


Peter

To add to Peter's great info, this is what the tubes look like. Here is a thread from a few years ago talking about making/sourcing them as well.

Thanks guys, pics are what I needed, I’ve got a ton of evergreen styrene of various widths just for this project, just needed to know what they looked like. Because of the different racks, I assumed different things went in them, different sized rounds, those donut shaped mortar thingys, etc.

And I’m in the previous thread! Geez, lol

Update: Got tubing cut for entire left side, right side rack is not configured by Trumpeter to carry anything, some surgery is in order. In fact, after looking at Prime Portal, looks like they got the entire right side rack wrong

Hi James,

yesterday I couldn’t remember where I got my information from, so I searched a little more and found the page again:


https://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/other/st3-22-7.pdf


If you follow this link you’ll find the

“Stryker Mortar Platoon and Section Leaders’ Handbook”.


On page 16 (Figure1-4) is a picture of the horizontal rack.
On the following pages you’ll find more pictures and drawings of the racks and also the information I gave yesterday.

Hope this is what you are looking for.

Peter

Peter, that’s awesome, thank you!

To touch upon a subject recently addressed in another thread, the Stryker's no slip is really fine. From 35 meters away (yes I did measure it) You can;t see anything. However, on top of the other methods I've espoused recently I'd like to try another.

Decades ago I painted a locomotive shell with FloQuil, but I forgot ao prime it first. The paint attacked the plastic, but dried so quickly that it very finely crazed the surfaced just like you see in the photo below of the mortyar carrier. Worth a try...