Is there an indepth article i can read it on how to apply weathering by pastels? I need more info than the ones presented here like
1) Do I need to do anything before applying the pastels?
2) Is there anything I need to take note of while applying pastels?
3) After I apply them, I leave it to dry?
4) I have seen some articles where they mix pastels with water or thinner, is that necessary?
Thanks!

Do all you other weathering first and apply a flat finish which will allow the fine dust to adhere better.



Other than using a brush you don't really care for, no. For exhaust stains, drag the dust away from the source of the exhaust and you'll get a nice fade. Apply more dust to the lower surfaces and to areas where dirt will accumulate.



If I get your question...do not add a final dull coat, you'll loose a lot of the effect. Typically these are aplied dry, as shaved dust from a chalk pastel stick.




Necessary? No. The only time I mix pastels with another edium is to get texture to rusted surface. Some people use this, but I've been very happy just scrubbing it on the model.

U mentioned that I do not need to apply another layer of dullcoat after pastel weathering but what if I want to protect it against dust?

The dullcoat will eliminate virtually all the effect except for the very heaviest applpications that have been serriously ground into the paint.

One thing about pastels ... you should practice a little with them first.
There are a lot of nice effects by using them differently. For an all over dusting I use them dry with a make-up brush (knicked from the wife). These are great as they are so soft and brush evenly!
Some I use often.. or all the time:
I also use alcohol with them. Mixed up they give a nice texture for making dirtier lower hulls and running gear. If you have a nice rusty colour, add little wet dots at the base of rusted/damaged elements. Takes max. 1 minute to dry. Dampen a very fine brush and pull downwards to create a nice rust streak.
An all over wash with dusty coloured pastels.... just enough to colour the alcohol, and just before its dry using a clean damp brush pull downwards on all sides gives a nice weathering effect, like rain washed off some dust.
Using dry pastels is fairly safe ... you can blow most of it away, but when using alcohol it stains. So I suggest, getting something from the rubbish bin, clean and paint the same along with your vehicle, and trying some of these out. A little practice gives good results, and the last thing you want is to practice on your best work yet to give horrible stains or the paint lifts. I never use water. I use isopropynol (rubbibg alcohol).

Check out this link .
There is a heading called "AFV weathering using washes, pastels & drybrushing". That might give you some ideas. Some other good tips to be found on that page as well!

If the dullcoat eliminates most of the weathering? Then what can I use to protect my model against dust, fingerprints etc?

Plain and simply ... no handling and keep in a cabinet with a glass door.

A well weathered vehicle looks better on a base to show why its weathered and adds to the weathering on the vehicle. The base can be used then for any handling.
If a cabinet is not an option, try and pick an area that is not dusty. keep away from the tv or where you spray especially.
The way i see it is .... one tamiya kit + barrell + tracks + PE = the same price as a cheap IKEA type cabinet. I bought one last easter, and Im so happy with the investment. All my models are in a presentable clean environment. Safe from my daughter and safe from dust!

Well I'm not that blessed to have any space for a glass cabinet, just an open shelf in an open air room which means dust.

Hi there hobbes

I use pastels a lot on my aircraft and I always seal them with a dull-coat. If left unprotected, pastels have a nasty habit of picking up fingerprints.

Sealing pastels does indeed lessen their effect. This is particularly true for pale tones, so it's important to do some tests to judge how to compensate. I seldom have a problem with dark pastels on over a pale basecoat and sealing them often helps tie everything together visually. For exhaust stains etc., I often apply a little more pastel after sealing, because it shouldn't look like part of the paintwork.

Hope this helps

Rowan

well my base is Olive drab for a ww2 half-track. So i'll need a heavy coat of pastel weathering if I were to use the dullcoat as protection?

I too use matt coat over my pastels and it is true that you need to over compemsate with them to get a nice effect. BUT! you only need to double the amount you would normally use if used as powder.

I have found that in most cases if I add a drop of water to make the powder damp and then apply it as thick as I want I get a better effect. I then leave this overnight to dry before applying the matt coat.

Howdy all,

Is this a good or bad time to mention pigments?

It's a good time!. Even I do not know much about these. How about doing a thread for us please Treadhead on pigments and how to use them. I am sure it would be appriciated. It will be by me at least

Hi again

I'd like to learn more about "pigments" too!

I've heard some people swear by them, and others dismiss them as an expensive way of buying pastels...

Tell us more Treadhead.

All the best

Rowan

Howdy Fellas,

Thx for the interest in pigments. But I would not presume to lecture about them. More learned people than I have already written informative narratives about the subject.

The essential point I was trying to relate to the Thread was;

Pigments, put very simply, are for the most part a WYSIWYG product. Meaning, that using pigments instead of pastels essentially allows you to better control the final result of your weathering because they are a What You See Is What You Get material. Because they are more 'pure', or more consistant. They resist any form of 'image reducing' that might be caused by applying a sealing coat of any sort. Hence, an increase in control and final result because there is limited 'pre-adjustment' required on your application.
Additionally, using pigments for say, rust/mud/ash, etc. you are able to use less of the material itself (because it is concentrated many-fold compared to simple pastels), so your affect will look more 'pure' as opposed to 'caked'.
Liken it to using oil paints....acrylic paints are great, and easy to use. But the comparison of acrylics to oil paints for 'richness' and 'depth' of colour is obvious.....ask any fig painter HIS opinion on the subject and see what he says?

As to "...and other's dismiss them as an expensive way of buying pastels...". that's like a Chef saying, "well, the recipe calls for using sweet Italian Portebella mushrooms to bring out and balance the taste of the Penne Rosco, but instead I think I'll save a buck or two and just use thses Safeway Brand blanched pencil erasers" O.K., maybe a little drastic of an analogy but, not too far off. If you've ever trying to build up some simulated mud with pastels for instance, you wind up with quite a little pile of brown 'loogie', because, you have to add soooo much pastels to the mix that it starts to become a balance of more pastels, more thinnner, more pastels, more thinnner....

Try pigments. Just start slowly, and you'll be amazed at the 'control' you now have...............
That's all.
hth.

Tread.

Just how much more "expensive" are we talking about here? I think pigments came in small little cans right?

Howdy hobbes,

Good question. I'll answer it directly so you can choose to ignore the rest of my rant. I'm looking at a bottle of Schmincke's 'Ivory Black', it comes in a rather large 100ml glass bottle. The product is made in Germany and is one of the better pigment suppliers (not the best mind you). This bottle cost me $6.95 U.S., this bottle combined with my same size bottles of Burnt Sienna and Raw Umber will last me the rest of my modeling Life!
A cheap assortment of artist's pastels will cost you about the same price as one of these bottles. So the choice is yours.
My only ' yardstick', and this goes for both my modeling as well as my professional life is, whatever's the best tool for the job! Sometimes that means spending a few sheckles more in the beginning so you're not kicking yourself in the kester at the end.
hth.

Tread.

...peace of mind.........priceless!