I have just put an article on my web page describing my idea for applying non-slip coating on models. Please take a look at it here:
http://vodnik.net/index_feat.htm
Here is the result:
Maybe it is a good material for a feature here on Armorama too?...
Best Regards,
Pawel
Hosted by Darren Baker
Easy way to make your own non-slip surface!
Vodnik
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 04:32 AM UTC
matt
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 04:35 AM UTC
I'd submit it as a feature!!!! Wish I could find it Locally though...May have to ask @ the hobbyshop......
Vodnik
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 04:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'd submit it as a feature!!!! Wish I could find it Locally though...May have to ask @ the hobbyshop......
I ordered mine from Japan, as it is not available in Poland. Just add it to your next order from Rainbow Ten or HobbyLink Japan - of course if you ever order anything form them
Rgds,
Pawel
matt
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 04:40 AM UTC
Ahh..I see Discount models carries it!!! I'll oder from them @ some point
jimbrae
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 04:42 AM UTC
Truly awesome Pawel, been waiting to see that for a few days. That should be done as a feature. Trully awesome...Jim
SEDimmick
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 04:46 AM UTC
Wow looks great! Just hope I dont fubar my Tamiya brush painting it since its a superfine.
I'll have to experment tonight with it.
I'll have to experment tonight with it.
Ranger74
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 05:44 AM UTC
OUTSTANDING I need to use the technique on my M60A1/A3 kits. Thanks for sharing it
Trackjam
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 06:00 AM UTC
That has to be one of the best techniques I've seen in a long time. Many thanks
mikeli125
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 06:16 AM UTC
great feature pawel, ffor those who dont want to run mr gunze through the air brush try using
some 800 grit sand paer cut to size/shape
your a brave man pawel spraying that through your a/b m8
some 800 grit sand paer cut to size/shape
your a brave man pawel spraying that through your a/b m8
HeavyArty
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 07:08 AM UTC
I agree with the above post. 800 grit wet/dry sand paper used for automotive body work, cut and glued on is the easier and less messy way to go. I wouldn't risk my airbrush with Mr. Surfacer.
Vodnik
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 07:25 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I agree with the above post. 800 grit wet/dry sand paper used for automotive body work, cut and glued on is the easier and less messy way to go. I wouldn't risk my airbrush with Mr. Surfacer.
The only risk to the airbrush is when you forget to clean it after use. Other than that there is nothing that can go wrong. And actually my warning about difficulties with cleaning airbrush are just "playing it safe". I personally didn't have any problem cleaning my Iwata with lacquer thinner. And I was using fine 0.35 mm nozzle.
Sandpaper method is really nice and easy, but try to cut it to the shape you see on my photo and apply so cleanly. No way... But for simpler shapes it is indeed easier.
Rgds,
Pawel
Vodnik
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 07:39 AM UTC
One more idea to make my method safer, for those who are afraid to damage their airbrushes: Thin Mr.Surfacer with lacquer thinner and then apply it with very low pressure. I think the result will be similar. Actually this is the way I originally wanted to do it, but I first tried the "high pressure" method and it worked so well that I never tried to do it the other way.
Rgds,
Pawel
Rgds,
Pawel
Vodnik
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 09:02 AM UTC
I added one additional information to the article. After removing masking tape you may need to brush away excess Mr. Surfacer dust that builds up at the edge of tape. But it goes off easily - you can use soft brush - leaving the non-slip surface where you wanted it to be.
Rgds,
Pawel
Rgds,
Pawel
scoccia
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 09:14 AM UTC
Excellent Pawel!!!
Bravo
P.S.: which one of the Mr Surfacer range are you using?
Bravo
P.S.: which one of the Mr Surfacer range are you using?
Vodnik
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 09:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
P.S.: which one of the Mr Surfacer range are you using?
This one:
Rgds,
Pawel
ArmouredSprue
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 12:33 PM UTC
Real nice article Pawel, keep up the good work...
Cheers
Cheers
flitzer
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 06:13 PM UTC
Chesc Vodnik.
great tip!
Another gem to add to the aids to better modelling collection.
And it would work on aircraft...wing root walk areas for example.
Cheers
Peter
:-H
great tip!
Another gem to add to the aids to better modelling collection.
And it would work on aircraft...wing root walk areas for example.
Cheers
Peter
:-H
greatbrit
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 09:07 PM UTC
great article,
you should definately sumit it as a feature here!
im not sure about spraying it through my airbrush though!
cheers
joe
you should definately sumit it as a feature here!
im not sure about spraying it through my airbrush though!
cheers
joe
Sensei
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 09:50 PM UTC
its a very nice article but only for peeps with good airbrushes and compresors... for now i still need to stick to good old sanpaper
Maki
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 11:52 PM UTC
Good work Pawel... I like the result very much; it is an evenly surfaced texture. I used CAST-a-COAT stuff from SmallShop and it also looks nice, but since I didn't use the airbrush for applying it, I doubt the texture would be as even as yours.
Great article, thanks for sharing...
Mario M.
Great article, thanks for sharing...
Mario M.
TreadHead
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Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2004 - 02:32 AM UTC
Yes, very good article Vodnik. I've been using Mr. Surfacer 500 and 1000 both in a rattle can and in the brushable bottles for quite awhile now, but never thought about using it for that particular application. I have used Mr. Surfacer 500 for other odd things...but not that.
Not sure how to process all this AB hestation though...
Tread.