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Dioramas: Beginners
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A couple of questions on making Dioramas
him_15
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
Joined: April 25, 2015
KitMaker: 117 posts
Armorama: 84 posts
Posted: Monday, April 27, 2015 - 07:59 PM UTC
Dear all, I am rather new to this hoppy, I have been gathering a lot of modelling information from various book and website's information but still have some doubts on making my own Dioramas, hope someone could kindly give my some advises, would be really appreciated! (I am not a native English speaker, sorry for my poor English!)

1) What is the best way to make ruin? Should I pre-paint all the rubbles and glue them on the ground or visa versa? What types of medium is best used for gluing rubbles? (I heard that gloss varish can be used for this purpose, is that true?)

2) I am trying to make a European building with brick roof, but have trouble making tiles. I tried to use cardboard or plasticard but the workload is too much and the effect isn't that good, May I ask how do you guys manage to make roof?

3) What is the best (most efficient) way to make realistic 1/35 grasses and leaves? I have checked out some famous brand such as Woodland Scenics but doesn't seems particular good on 1/35 scale.

4) How may I make bared wires? Are there any existing brand offering this product?

5) Are there any specific websites or books that could offer me (a beginner) a lot of instruction and advises on how to make good Dioramas?

One again sorry for asking so many questions at once and forgive my horrible English, and thank you for helping!
edoardo
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Milano, Italy
Joined: November 30, 2007
KitMaker: 642 posts
Armorama: 234 posts
Posted: Monday, April 27, 2015 - 09:06 PM UTC
Hi Leung and welcome to the forum!
I am not a master myself but I can tell you that if you do a little research on the site typing in the keyworlds you need, you will find tons of documentation and tutorials on how you could build almost everything.

For barbed wire I am sure there is a great feature, but basically what I use is a twisted copper wire with added spikes, cardboard for tiles is ok and, yes, both tasks are tedious and take a lot of time but this is all moelling is about, isn't it? Of course there are a lot of products you could buy (again do a little research) but they are expensive and, in my opiniom, using them just reduces the fun.
I hope this helps
ciao
edo
obg153
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Texas, United States
Joined: April 07, 2009
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,049 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 28, 2015 - 05:21 AM UTC
Welcome aboard,, it's always good to see a new modeler join this site. There's never too many questions, it's how we all learn. As to those questions; BOOKS - How To Build Dioramas (Volumes 1&2) by Shepard Paine. Excellent info for beginners. RUBBLE - depending on the scene, glue most of the rubble to the base first. You can use small chunks of styrofoam then cover that with your loose rubble then paint. You can always add more later if needed.
BARBED WIRE - You can buy photo etch stuff, but it's flat and sometimes doesn't look realistic. I've often used the mesh plastic bags that fruit comes in. Look for the small diameter mesh. Cut off a single strip, leaving small tabs all along each side of the strip. Put a clamp on each end, then twist it until all those little tabs begin poking in different angles/directions. Paint & seal it, and then you can fix it to posts or whatever.
Hope this helps and good luck with your first diorama!
screamingeagle
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: January 08, 2002
KitMaker: 1,027 posts
Armorama: 595 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 28, 2015 - 08:45 AM UTC
Like stated there are a few good books out there and if you can they are worth purchasing and keeping on hand.
But for know here is a nice simple DIY vid on YouTube using hydracal. You can access parts #2 and #3 after watching part #1
https://youtu.be/4kQ2UAkmxZE
justsendit
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Colorado, United States
Joined: February 24, 2014
KitMaker: 3,033 posts
Armorama: 2,492 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 28, 2015 - 08:23 PM UTC
Hi Leung, 'DAP Fast'NFinal Lightweight Spackling' is quite useful for diorama base surfacing ... lightweight, flexible, no mixing, non-messy and very easy to shape. I don't know if you can get it where you are but it is available on eBay.



Rubble-pile buildup: Carve the initial shapes with ’Styrofoam’ pieces. Paint with a primer. This will prevent glue from seeping through the pores.

Bricks, etc. I make a simple cutting guide on my workbench using tape to determine length. Then I just go at it and cut a bunch at a time … time-consuming but well worth the effort.

To glue-down larger pieces of rubble: Woodland Scenics ’Scenic Glue’ or diluted ‘White Glue.’

Larger area rubble coverage: Apply Woodland Scenics 'Scenic Cement,’ (spray or eyedropper application); it dries clear. Important: let it cure overnight.

Something to think about: Rubble (bricks, fallen chunks, beams, etc.) should match where they fell from the building and it should appear random and not look like it was placed — not as easy as it may sound.

These are just some basic suggestions to get you going and there are many more out there. Just experiment and have fun!

Welcome to Armorama!

—mike
him_15
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
Joined: April 25, 2015
KitMaker: 117 posts
Armorama: 84 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2015 - 05:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Like stated there are a few good books out there and if you can they are worth purchasing and keeping on hand.
But for know here is a nice simple DIY vid on YouTube using hydracal. You can access parts #2 and #3 after watching part #1
https://youtu.be/4kQ2UAkmxZE


Thx! The video is a good reference for me!
him_15
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
Joined: April 25, 2015
KitMaker: 117 posts
Armorama: 84 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2015 - 05:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Leung, 'DAP Fast'NFinal Lightweight Spackling' is quite useful for diorama base surfacing ... lightweight, flexible, no mixing, non-messy and very easy to shape. I don't know if you can get it where you are but it is available on eBay.



Rubble-pile buildup: Carve the initial shapes with ’Styrofoam’ pieces. Paint with a primer. This will prevent glue from seeping through the pores.

Bricks, etc. I make a simple cutting guide on my workbench using tape to determine length. Then I just go at it and cut a bunch at a time … time-consuming but well worth the effort.

To glue-down larger pieces of rubble: Woodland Scenics ’Scenic Glue’ or diluted ‘White Glue.’

Larger area rubble coverage: Apply Woodland Scenics 'Scenic Cement,’ (spray or eyedropper application); it dries clear. Important: let it cure overnight.

Something to think about: Rubble (bricks, fallen chunks, beams, etc.) should match where they fell from the building and it should appear random and not look like it was placed — not as easy as it may sound.

These are just some basic suggestions to get you going and there are many more out there. Just experiment and have fun!

Welcome to Armorama!

—mike



I will keep an eye on these products, very appreciated for your advises!
him_15
Visit this Community
Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
Joined: April 25, 2015
KitMaker: 117 posts
Armorama: 84 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2015 - 05:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Welcome aboard,, it's always good to see a new modeler join this site. There's never too many questions, it's how we all learn. As to those questions; BOOKS - How To Build Dioramas (Volumes 1&2) by Shepard Paine. Excellent info for beginners. RUBBLE - depending on the scene, glue most of the rubble to the base first. You can use small chunks of styrofoam then cover that with your loose rubble then paint. You can always add more later if needed.
BARBED WIRE - You can buy photo etch stuff, but it's flat and sometimes doesn't look realistic. I've often used the mesh plastic bags that fruit comes in. Look for the small diameter mesh. Cut off a single strip, leaving small tabs all along each side of the strip. Put a clamp on each end, then twist it until all those little tabs begin poking in different angles/directions. Paint & seal it, and then you can fix it to posts or whatever.
Hope this helps and good luck with your first diorama!



Just place an order for both books on eBay, cheers!
 _GOTOTOP