Hello, I would like to build a panther in 1/35 scale but hate the idea of using photo etch chain on the spare track retaining pins, any alternatives? With all the possibilities with modern injection plastic molding why has a company like dragon or Tamiya not able to produce package that contains tiny plastic chain that could be used on existing kits?
Many thanks
Paul

I can't speak to any alternatives as German armor isn't my forte (Franky neither is anything else yet... Except hockey) but even with "modern injection plastic molding" the molding process and the plastic in general still has its limitations. You can only get so small and so detailed before styrene and injection molding becomes inadequate. Resin takes it a bit further but it's very brittle. Photoetch allows use to have very tiny, minute and mainly thin details (like exhaust shrouds or hoods) that styrene can't achieve. From looking at pictures of these chains in 1/35 I can probably guess that it can't be molded in styrene either because of the properties of the plastic or because of the limitations of the molding process. You can try make the chains from wire or just continue using photoetch until you find a substitute that fits your needs. Other than that I don't know what to tell you. Maybe someone with more experience than what I have at my disposal can provide more info.

And as an aside, wing nuts in 1/35 are common - and VERY tiny but these are solid pieces without any holes in them, like what chains have essentially. To be able to mold something like that (chains, that is) would be an extremely difficult process with injection molding much unlike the molding of a sold shape, say a lower hull tub. With 3D printing it's probably very possible but it can be expensive.

Barrel Depot, AK Interactive, and Trumpeter (their Master Tool line) all make small scale brass chain that is suitable for this. I ran into the same problem with the PE chain falling apart as I cut it from the fret. I'm currently using Trumpeter's chain in the build I'm in right now and it is working out great. -Len

I use chain from LZ models as it is already blackened. Fantastic service too.

It's impossible to make injection molded styrene chain as small as retaining chain for your purpose. Even 3-printing has it's limitations. You could try model railroad shops for extremely fine link by link chain. But for spare track, gas cap covers, U-bolt pin, etc. retaining chain, I've always used PE. Cut off a short length - about 1/4" (or as long as you need), and bend it into a U shape, and glue into place. Once painted, black washed, and highlighted, it will look convincing...unless you want real swinging chain!

For really tiny "chains" painted such as used for keepers on gas-caps and small pins from track-racks, even the smallest real chains (ca 42-43 links per US inch) may be too large, and no resin or styrene "chain" will get near there. The PE "chains" provided in kits and AM sets look OK when bent and painted. A cheap and easy way to make tiny keeper "chains" is to pull wires from little wire-mesh screens such as used on water-faucets and bend these into loops to get the desired hang. These wires will come out of the mesh screens with built-in kinks that will look quite like tiny chains on a build.

Bob

I use this: http://images.dragonhobby.com/Resicast/358801-1.jpg
chain from Resicast. PE, but you can see the links, even on the fine chain, are actually etched out and look like real links. Unfortunately the fret is really small. WEM (White Ensign Models) make incredibly anal separate PE links which you can link together to make a chain length (but these are studded naval links for making anchor chain).

I've also read of twisting two lengths of very fine wire together, then hammering them until flat. The result is supposed to look like fine chain.