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What size of drill is needed to for Hornet?
him_15
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
Joined: April 25, 2015
KitMaker: 117 posts
Armorama: 84 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 04:42 PM UTC
Hi all, I have bought some 1/35 Hornet's head to be used for my figures modelling, could anyone kindly advise me what size of drill is recommended to insert the neck hole? Thank you!
SgtRam
Staff MemberContributing Writer
AEROSCALE
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 06, 2011
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Posted: Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 05:32 PM UTC
I don't believe there is a specific size as they vary. For me the best result is to drill and carve out the figures neck area to the color of the the uniform, then sand, carve, or fill the neck of the head till it fits the way I am looking for.

jrutman
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 07:04 PM UTC
I use a round grinding bit for the dremel and hollow out a nice deep hole up to the inside edge of the collar. I then cut small sections of the resin neck off until the height is correct.Then round off the bottom of the neck. A rule of thumb is to get the chin roughly level with the top of the shoulders. I see a lot of guys with giraffe necks and this is how you avoid that.
J
justsendit
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Colorado, United States
Joined: February 24, 2014
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Posted: Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 07:43 PM UTC
Jerry, you beat me to it! I agree — take heed the dreaded “giraffe neck!”

Here’s my long-winded version.

1. To start with, I use a No. 11 X-Acto Blade with a broken tip (since a new tip will break anyway), center and twirl it to start a pilot hole.
2. I use a Dreml Engraving Cutter (DRE 106). This bit has the benefit of a ball head which allows undercutting into the figure’s torso using an axial/circular motion. In addition, the cutter doesn’t heat-up the Styrene as a drill-bit will.
3. Using the Engraving Cutter and a sharp X-Acto Blade, I carve and clean out to the collar leaving a very thin but safe thickness.
4. Trim/taper/round the bottom of the Hornet Head as needed.
5. Using a little ball of Fun-Tak or Blu-Tak Putty makes life a whole lot easier when dry-fitting the heads/hands. Sometimes, I don’t even bother to glue them — the putty does the trick and I can reposition the head at a later time if needed.

—mike
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