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Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
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m1a2 sep v2 abrams tusk
SpaceXhydro
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: March 13, 2015
KitMaker: 418 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 07:27 PM UTC
Since august 2014 I've been trying to build an m1a2 tusk 2 with full interior using a Tamiya m1a2 SEP tusk 2 and an Italari m1a1 with resin interior. However, I realized by December that I screwed up the two models I was working on. after failing I decided to buy recently launched dragon m1a2 SEP V2 to at least salvage parts from the first models and use them on dragons model in order to continue my project.at first I was going to put full interior but then I realized had problems and I was going to face difficulty. So I didn't use much turret interior nor did I put any engine interior. I had spare parts from the Tamiya m1a2 tusk 2 but I didn't think it fit dragon’s m1a2 well so I used voyager's tusk 1 and basic upgrade set. I started construction in February and completed the m1a2 V2 Abrams in July. This is my first post and I hope you like it.

Here are the photos of when I started construction:
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In this image I had to put a plastic rod the middle because dragon did not mould the bottom hull correctly.
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Here I used parts from the voyager upgrade for the tank infantry telephone. 078

When I was assembling the barrel I realized a spring could be used inside it to simulate recoil of the barrel. 081

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This is when the tank started to take shape before the hull was glued together. The belly Armour on the hull was from one of the voyager upgrades but I decided to use Tamiya's belly Armour because thought it was better.
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Here is the driver’s cabin I used from Italari's m1a1 with resin interior. 100

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This is after the hull pieces were glued together.
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This is the belly Armour i used from Tamiya's m1a2 tusk 2. It required cleaning up and i removed the bolts later. 106

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sorry about the quality of this picture, it didn't come out very clearly.111

i put masking over the optics before primering it in white paint.112

here it is after i applied the primer113

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figures I'm using from Tamiya's m1a2 tusk 2 sitting in the tank. the wheels and the tracks were painted black unlike the rest of the tank. in this picture i didn't glue the wheels on yet.129

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the painting starts with a Vallejo Iraq sand.132

followed by a wash.133

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then the tracks were painted.136

afterwards i dry brushed the hull.138

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the wheels were then glued to the hull.
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the oil gauges were then added to the wheels.149

this is what it looked afterwards.153

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the tracks were put on glued.161

at first i wasn't going to put a 50.calibre because i required some parts but i salvaged what i needed from Tamiya's m1a2 tusk 2 and used other parts i had for the transmission. i also had a spare browning machine gun which was more detailed than Tamiya's gun. i converted the part that holds browning machine gun along with the putting everything in place. i also made a few scratch built parts for it.005

i thought it looked brillian.

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Here i put on the voyager parts on the side skirts. assembling the all the different pieces was the easiest thing to do but sticking them on the tank was the hardest since i had trouble sticking them on. apparently the brass side skirt was supposed to replace the whole plastic side skirt but i thought there would be problems for fitting it in. So i thought it's best if i just added the brass part on the plastic side skirt. for spacing spacing out all the connectors i used a previously build tile to measure how far each one is positioned. i put as many sections for tiles as it showed in the instructions but when i was finished i noticed that it was one section too short.

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this of the construction of the brass tiles.

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It was very difficult to make perfectly good tiles because the faces of the tiles were bent when they should have been flat. as i was building, some of the tiles became damaged and weren't good for use. personally i would not recommend buying the voyager tusk 1 upgrade and instead a legendary products conversion kit would be better.


The picture below may not look like much but if you look closely at the parts you can see that they are slightly bent.
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As a result of the difficulty i had and tiles not being good for use i decided that i should cast resin copies of the existing tiles using the best ones. i glued then in two's to reduce time.

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after casting them i faced the worst and most difficult part of gluing then on. since the models weren't perfect some of the tiles couldn't fit into place.

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I eventually stuck then on but the sight of the tiles were horrendous.

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So i improvised a solution to my mistakes by hiding it under a net.

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i left the one of the stowage containers open to reveal the stowage inside.

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added the extra meshes that came with the voyager kit.

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replaced the rear plastic grill with more detailed brass grill. this was also challenging to put together since the glue kept getting stuck to the template and damaged the template.

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The aerial stand broke so i wrapped it around one of the antennas.

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the tank after the sides of the hull was sprayed in primer.

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The stowage and figures for the model.

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The major painting of the tank starts.

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the optics.

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I put enamel paint on parts that weren't painted with primer spray.

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The base layer is complete.

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I thought about painting my tank in a camouflage to took more appealing.

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Dragon did a mistake on the crows 2 by missing out a part at the back but luckily i had a spare piece for that from the voyager kit. i also made the bars using brass pipes.

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i used metallic paper for making the lights reflective.

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Here i lost one of the tail lights but luckily i had spare Tamiya lights and a part is placed over it.

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the tank is taking more shape.

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The tank may have tow cables already on but i thought it would took better with extended cables on the front.

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The figures sitting in their places.

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painted stowage.

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Here is where i start the shading.

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followed by the dry brushing.

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I had a number of names in my mind of what to write on the tank but i had forgotten them. I didn't want to call it anything original but i wanted something a little humorous. So when i looked through my transfer sheets for ideas and options i stumbled on a sheet that said "Discovery". i was trying to make an anagram of that word when i realized i could make the word "Disco". At first i was going to call it "Disco night" which sometimes i think it would of been best however, instead i called it "Disco time". The way it was written would be as if a crew member painted it by hand on the barrel.

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Here's a shot of the turret after it was shaded.

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After the weathering was and other battle marks were added.

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This is the m1a2 v2 when it was completed.

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the drivers cabin being revealed.

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Hope you all enjoyed seeing my work.




Removed by original poster on 08/05/15 - 18:53:36 (GMT).
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 01:05 AM UTC
That is looking very nice. May I ask why you included an interior on a buttoned up tank?
SpaceXhydro
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: March 13, 2015
KitMaker: 418 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 01:11 AM UTC
the drivers hatch is openable so you could see whats the drivers hatch.
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 04:00 AM UTC
Looks like you are off to a good start. A couple pointers. First, the road wheel center caps should be painted gloss black with a sand-colored nut in the middle. In reality, they are clear as molded, but full of gear oil. They appear black (see below). You can't just paint the backside black either as the plastic is too thick and it doesn't look right.



Also, there should be an ammo belt going from the ammo box to the gun on the CROWS II. Dragon left this part off.



Lastly, I am assuming you are making a "what-if" M1A2 SEP v2 w/TUSK II. TUSK is only added in combat situations and the M1A2 SEP v2 was fielded after we pulled out of Iraq. Additionally, no US Army Abrams (Army only uses M1A2s) have been deployed to Afghanistan.
M4A1Sherman
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New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
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Posted: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 05:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks like you are off to a good start. A couple pointers. First, the road wheel center caps should be painted gloss black with a sand-colored nut in the middle. In reality, they are clear as molded, but full of gear oil. They appear black (see below). You can't just paint the backside black either as the plastic is too thick and it doesn't look right.



Also, there should be an ammo belt going from the ammo box to the gun on the CROWS II. Dragon left this part off.



Lastly, I am assuming you are making a "what-if" M1A2 SEP v2 w/TUSK II. TUSK is only added in combat situations and the M1A2 SEP v2 was fielded after we pulled out of Iraq. Additionally, no US Army Abrams (Army only uses M1A2s) have been deployed to Afghanistan.



Concur... Great work!!!
Removed by original poster on 08/06/15 - 00:40:10 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 08/06/15 - 00:44:02 (GMT).
amoz02t
#192
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: November 25, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 09:18 AM UTC
Nice work! Appreciate the good photos too! Thank you for sharing
SpaceXhydro
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: March 13, 2015
KitMaker: 418 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 06, 2015 - 09:18 PM UTC
Thanks for the pictures and tips. as for the ammo belt i used a spare one from the kit. it's not fully accurate but it do.
Tankrider
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Joined: October 07, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, August 06, 2015 - 10:04 PM UTC
Hyder,
Nice work. I do have to mention that the turret stowage box that you opened up should open toward the TC vice away from him. Also, the turret boxes were never that neat and orderly. Throw some additional junk in there: helmets, belt kit, rags, etc...

John
SpaceXhydro
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Armorama: 235 posts
Posted: Friday, August 07, 2015 - 12:02 AM UTC
thanks for the tips John
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