AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Color for Wash
HellaYella
United States
Joined: August 27, 2003
KitMaker: 109 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: August 27, 2003
KitMaker: 109 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, January 23, 2004 - 11:08 PM UTC
I have decaled and applied FUTURE, so what color can I use for a wash on my D-Day camo German halftrack (base color is dunkelgelb)
jrnelson
Iowa, United States
Joined: May 23, 2002
KitMaker: 719 posts
Armorama: 566 posts
Joined: May 23, 2002
KitMaker: 719 posts
Armorama: 566 posts
Posted: Friday, January 23, 2004 - 11:38 PM UTC
Do you have oil paints? If so, I would go with a burnt umber wash, then a really thin black wash..
If you don't use oils, you could get the same effect from a dark brown wash, then a black one. I like to use oils due to their slow drying time, it gives me plenty of time to wipe off the excess wash on the raised details. I have found that sometimes enamel washes, and especially acrylic washes dry WAY too fast. Just my 2 cents :-)
Later-
Nelson
If you don't use oils, you could get the same effect from a dark brown wash, then a black one. I like to use oils due to their slow drying time, it gives me plenty of time to wipe off the excess wash on the raised details. I have found that sometimes enamel washes, and especially acrylic washes dry WAY too fast. Just my 2 cents :-)
Later-
Nelson
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 24, 2004 - 12:27 AM UTC
I agree with jr. Go with a brown and maybe a secondary black.
If you don't use oils, I would recommend using a 'selective' wash - that is only apply the wash to creases and details. A 'full panel' wash - one that you apply the wash to the entire panel (some call these a filter) are hard to control and get right and as jr said rub clean.
If you're able to a $4-$6 tube of burnt umber oil paint will last a life time and will be a great investment in your wash technique.
If you don't use oils, I would recommend using a 'selective' wash - that is only apply the wash to creases and details. A 'full panel' wash - one that you apply the wash to the entire panel (some call these a filter) are hard to control and get right and as jr said rub clean.
If you're able to a $4-$6 tube of burnt umber oil paint will last a life time and will be a great investment in your wash technique.
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 24, 2004 - 02:25 AM UTC
Regardless of medium, use a selective or spot wash. Wiping off paint is just looking for trouble, kind of like riding a motorcycle witout a helmet and thinking, "If I get in trouble, I'll have time to put it onbefore my head hits the ground." #:-)
jrnelson
Iowa, United States
Joined: May 23, 2002
KitMaker: 719 posts
Armorama: 566 posts
Joined: May 23, 2002
KitMaker: 719 posts
Armorama: 566 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 24, 2004 - 03:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Wiping off paint is just looking for trouble................
I totally agree, perhaps my first response to Hella Yella made it sound like I do alot of wiping....... hehehe :-) Sorry about that :-)
My personal method...
1. Paint the tank - including all of the detail parts, and apply the transfers. I don't use a gloss coat, nor do I use waterslide decals. Using transfers allows me to skip the gloss coat and not worry about silvering decals.
2. Mix up a really thin oil paint wash of burnt umber - I use Alexander brand oil paints, so I use the same brand (Alexander) oil paint thinner. This first wash - I apply to the whole tank. It is really thin, so it doesn't really do much to change the color.. all it does is "wet" the entire surface of the tank. Because I am doing this over a "dull" finish, and not gloss, I must do the entire tank with this thin wash to prevent "tide marks" where the wash creeps via capillary action, half way across flat surfaces. By covering the whole thing, I prevent these marks.
3. While the first thin wash is still wet -I follow with a heavier - selective wash, that doesn't cover the whole tank. This is where I dab excess off with a dry brush.. oil paints give me plenty of time to soak of any pools that may accumulate.
4. After this first series of washes is dry - I repeat the process with a secondary color (like black).
5. I may put 4 or 5 washes on a tank.... some would say that my washes are actually "filters"....... I havn't the foggiest idea about the difference between the two, I just use MANY thin washes as opposed to one or two heavy ones.
I hope this helps.... I am happy with my system and feel I get good results. Of course others have their own system that works for them, so there are many good ways to skin this cat :-)
6. Then when I am satisfied with the look of the tank after the washes - I dust on pastels for effect.....
HTH- (and is a little more clear.. hehe :-) )
Nelson
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