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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Newbie question on primer
him_15
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
Joined: April 25, 2015
KitMaker: 117 posts
Armorama: 84 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 06:47 PM UTC
Dear all, I would like to ask for Vallejo primer, can I use it out of the bottle, or is it necessary to add water or thinner to dilute it? Also, regarding to Tamiya so-called Acrylic paint, is it better to use their Lacquer thinner instead of the regular X-20 Acrylic thinner for better effect? Would be really appreciated if somebody could give me advise, thank you!
Tojo72
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 07:19 PM UTC
X-20 is their enamel thinner,if you are working with their acrylics then use X-20A it works fine.

As far as the Vallejo primer I never used it.
jomark
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: April 13, 2015
KitMaker: 117 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 08:53 PM UTC
Tamiya acrylics use X-20A thinner but you could also use lacquer if you really want to although I haven't tried that combination yet.

Most users of Vallejo primers say that you can spray it straight from the bottle without thinning but that primer has a reputation of not sanding well or work well with masking.
SSGToms
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 10:22 PM UTC
If you clean the model really well, you don't need primer. Spray the model thoroughly with window cleaner, rinse with water, and let it dry. your model will paint perfectly.
Yes, many guys I know use the Tamiya lacquer thinner with the yellow cap to thin Tamiya X and XF paints with superior results.
TDZepp
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Keski-Suomi, Finland
Joined: April 15, 2015
KitMaker: 48 posts
Armorama: 47 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 12:08 AM UTC
After my experience I wont be touching vallejo primer again. It isnt tough and peels away easy... Same experiences can be found from the web. I rather use decanted sraycan primer, holds well. Vallejo may work if you dont handle model too much.. Just my toughts.
It sprays without thinner ok.

Ps.true, it cant be sanded at all so your surface has to be perfect!
Spray can primers hold well, can be sanded and imperfections can be fixed with putty with no problem on it.

Vallejo Model color is great with brush or airbrushed when thinned properly!
VintageRPM
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Texas, United States
Joined: November 28, 2010
KitMaker: 300 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 03:27 AM UTC
Have to say, I have no problems what so ever with Vellejo primer. Probably can be sprayed without thinner, but I use one or 2 drops of thinner for every 10 drops of paint.

Now, I have only used it on plastic, where primer is not always needed. I use it if I need a consistent base coat over various colors of plastic, putty, etc. If I'm working with resin, I use Tamiya spray lacquer primer.
Barrikadyzavod
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Barcelona, Spain / España
Joined: May 15, 2015
KitMaker: 21 posts
Armorama: 21 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 01:38 PM UTC
Hello Leung.
vallejo Primer is formulated to offer the modeller the best answer over the model about resistence to handing, the Primer is ready to use by Airbrush without problem, it dries to a matt, self-leveling finish, drying time is very quick and shows the most resistant coating obtained 24 hours after the application. Airbrushes can be cleaned easily with water, or with vallejo Airbrush Cleaner AV 71.099. The Primers have been developed first of all to be used like a base coat, while at the same time, their chemical composition has been designed to bring forth the most minute details of the model, so that the weathering process like paint, filters or washes, blending, all detailing effects, are easier to accomplish. For me, the best option of Primer in the market...
brekinapez
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Georgia, United States
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 08:51 PM UTC
I haven't tried it yet, but several people in my area (Atlanta, GA) seem to like it a lot.

But it is recommended to allow a good curing time.
jzumbro
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California, United States
Joined: August 27, 2010
KitMaker: 100 posts
Armorama: 76 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 09:27 PM UTC
gee, I wonder who Chema works for.
stevieneon
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England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: January 24, 2009
KitMaker: 144 posts
Armorama: 143 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 10:28 PM UTC
Have just us3d Valelo 4BO surface primercand went on great. First light coats were straight from the bottle, then I added some Valelo thinner for a few more coats. Tamiya paint can be used with x20 or you can use their lacquer thinner which is more durable and goes on geautifully but is really smelly. With Tamiyz paints, I prefer mr hobby self levelling thinner. That is the best!
OlaLundin
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Kalmar, Sweden
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 28 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 01:30 AM UTC
I spray Vallejo's primer straight from the bottle. It comes out with quite a spotty spray pattern, but since you're priming the model that doesn't matter really. If you thin it, I get the sense that it won't be as durable.
noddy927
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Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: February 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,273 posts
Armorama: 568 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 02:36 AM UTC
I use Vallejo air which is ok straight from the bottle. I thin Tamiya with car screen wash and its cheap and works perfect.

Pete
Doodeck
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: August 15, 2014
KitMaker: 155 posts
Armorama: 154 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 04:14 AM UTC
I had problems with Valleyo primer when I tried to cover my models in 1-2 coats without too much drying time between them. Sanding was impossible, paint would peel, as it would peel on sharp edges when handed later.
On my last model, I applied it in 4-5 light coats (last one was bit heavier but not too much), leaving each layer to dry some 30 minutes. After the last one the primer was left to cure for 48-72 hours. No peeling whatsoever, even on PE parts and light sanding was possible.
I saw a guy on Youtube that sprays the Future on Vallejo primer on areas that need some heavier sanding without peeling when doing so.
Of course, wash the model before.
Now, when I finally found the trick that works with it and knowing my luck, my guess is that on the next model primer will peel like the monkey peels the banana...
Jedge3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: July 17, 2010
KitMaker: 258 posts
Armorama: 208 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 06:24 AM UTC
I use Vallejo primer all the time. And yes it would pull up for me if I tried to sand it but I was trying to sand it when it dry to the touch and not cured. There is a difference. Once I let it sit for a day or two I have not had the same issue. I also use other primers, mostly Gunze Mr.Surfacer for resin or metal kits. Also if you have a lot of PE or metal on a kit. Try Gunze Metal Primer on it first. It helps alot with getting the primer or base coat to stick to the metal parts.
bison126
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Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 12:42 PM UTC
I never wash nor prime my plastic models and I've never got into any kind of trouble.
It looks to me there is a kind of simple marketing trick behind all of this.

Olivier
barrowb98
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Alabama, United States
Joined: April 20, 2015
KitMaker: 119 posts
Armorama: 119 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 06:32 PM UTC
I like the new Badger "Stynylrez" primers. Acrylic/Urethane like the Vallejo stuff, but goes on smoother and sticks better.

And yes, using the Tamiya Lacquer Thinner with their acrylic paints does make them go on smoother, in my experience. I also use Gunze Mr Levelling Thinner. They're fine with The X-20A thinner, but the lacquer thinner transforms them into something different. I like it a lot. My favorite paint/thinner combination by far.
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