What's the best way to glue individual link tank tracks together? Tamiya Extra Thin just made a mess of things.

Try Testors liquid cement #3502 .

Just working fine for me. Try a thicker glue but you'll have to wait longer before handling the track run.

Olivier

I agree.

How did you apply the glue/solvent? I haven't used Tamiya Extra Thin but judging by the name it sounds as if it is almost pure solvent and then it should be applied in very small amounts.

I use nail polish remover which is mostly ethyl acetate
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_acetate
and I apply it with the smallest available paintbrush and let it pull itself into the joints with capillary action.
/ Robin

Don't touch the joint with your fingers before the solvent has evaporated since the capillary action will pull the solvent into your fingerprints making horrible marks on the plastic ....

never had problems with Tamiya extra thin glue. maybe you're using too much of it, and then indeed it can become a mess

Same here,I have always used Tamiya Extra Thin,small amount to each link as I go along,not slathering the whole run at once.When the whole run is done,I wait about 30 minutes,then carefully flex it around the the sprockets and rollers and allow to dry completely for 24 hours,remove,paint,weather,and reattach.

Thicker glue helps.
I use Tamiya limonette for everthing. After applying it I wait minute or so that the plastic soften and then put them together so they stick immediately. If its long set of links do them in parts and then glue all the sets together for the whole track.
Before the glue sets bend them around the wheels and so on.

Yes, with T.E.T. and other cements with a brush-in-cap bottle, don't use the brush in the cap! Most applications require much, much, less cement than these brushes drop on the joint. Get a worn out old or cheap new paint brush and use it to apply the cement. I have several, from a #00 to a #1 (originally) but they aren't those sizes now.

Don't use an old brush with bristles pointing everywhere. Trim those wild ones off and just leave the core.

KL

What kind of indi links are you trying to glue together? Most good individual link tracks in recent kits will snap together without any need for glue.

Who makes a good set for a Luchs PzKfwII ?
I don't care for the ICM set much.

Without knowing what the exact problem is, it's hard to say what glue is best-- I use Tamiya Extra Thin too, like several others have said above. But I've used Walthers Pro-Weld which is very hot as well. However, I make a simple track jig out of two long pieces of wood joined at a 45 degree angle as a "tray" to hold the track links. I lay a few individual links together along the back edge with one end of the track slightly overhanging the front edge, then I use a fine brush applying just enough glue to flow though capillary action from the overhanging end to the back edge. The wood ensures the plastic track won't readily stick, but I suppose you could use Plexiglas or metal bent into an angle (not polystyrene). VR, Russ

This.

If you used Tamiya when assembling tracks from say a Pz I or II you really, really need to be careful. Apply a just the smallest amount to the join between the links. I ruined a set of DML Pz I tracks that way.

Good tip! I DO have a tendency to slop a bit too much on, especially with tracks. Seems obvious now you bring it up, but I've never tried using a smaller brush! Thanks.

I use Humbrol liquid Polly, this being a thicker glue gives me a longer working time and it does not cause issues if you are over generous. I usually put 10 or so links together and then depending on the link just apply a single wipe over with the supplied brush. If the links have a lot of detail on the interior face then I switch to a thinner glue and apply glue to each joint individually.

I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement all the time for assembling link or link&length tracks together, it works perfectly.

A couple of tips. Use thin strips of double side tape (any cheap art or hardware store brand works fine and lasts years), lay down a length on your workbench slightly less in width than the track links, and long enough to hold the whole run. (Use the rubber band tracks as a guide).

The double side tape acts as a third hand to assemble the links together so they stay put, then place a tiny amount of glue in the joint, the Tamiya cap brush is perfectly suited for this task...

And here's where I think you went wrong or over did it, most modelers end up using way too much glue for starters, and/or end up with glue on the wheels too. Also, don't press the links into the tape hard, just push down gently enough so they stay in place (it doesn't take much to hold them).

After all the links have been glued, let sit about 10-15 mins, then carefully lift off the run and drape around the road wheels and sprockets. The run will still be flexible, yet stay together so you can place it around the model. Repeat process for other side. (It helps to have the hull built and all wheels in place -- and best to leave the idler and or drive sprockets unglued, if no poly caps are present, such as on a Tamiya kit).

Set it up to dry overnight, including the sag, etc. In the morning, they will be strong enough to remove as a unit, and then paint and weather and be returned to place.

It's not the glue that is the issue. HTH.

I'm not a big fan of individual glue together tracks (either rubber band or workables for me IMHO), but when I do use them (like Dragon's Magic track), I tend to assemble the tracks with the wheels altogether, leaving off the outer road wheels if appropriate, to be added after painting. Once all the glue has cured, I can remove the entire unit for painting and weathering. Using this method I'm not too terrebly careful with the painting, since they'll all get heavily weathered. I know some people can build them so that the entire run can be removed for painting, but I've never managed to do this myself...

Damon.

Testor's liquid cement and a toothpick. Toothpick is the key element to put the stuff where you want it...this is the Bronco M1A2 Abrams track kit

Bump.

Check it:

http://armorama.com//features/1737&page=1

I use Revell Contacta Professional with a needle. The needle provides small & accurate drops of glue. I think this is not extra thin grade glue, just some regular type. I usually glue several (5-10) tracks together into one link. Sometimes I also use a ruler for alignment. Then I let the glue half-dry, and then apply the link onto the wheels, slightly bending it (before the glue has dried out completely) to make realistic sag effect. Repeated in several steps, this provides an accurate complete link. But you need to start with the lower (straight) link part (the one touching the ground under the wheels), then around the idler and drive sprocket up, and then the upper sagging part. In this way, you will be able to fix the gap between the final ends of the link by additional sagging and/or an additional track.

I use Revel as well. I do not have the patience or vision for the indy links you have separate pins for (the cat does not like bad language). A single drop of glue at each connection. I do a top run and a bottom run (allows for adjustment). When set I install the pins in the track where they show. Why make life harder.

Another happy user of Revell Contacta. Gives me enough time to make the sag, position the track and correct mistakes.