hi
any1 can enlighten me on the materials and how to make soil and gradients for a dio?
Dioramas
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Material for making Soil and gradients?
Leopold
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: January 26, 2004
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Joined: January 26, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 10:52 PM UTC
greatbrit
United Kingdom
Joined: May 14, 2003
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Joined: May 14, 2003
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 12:22 AM UTC
well for soil, i would use soil, you cant beat the real thing!
gradients can be produced in a number if ways, i recommend building up to the required gradient with polystyrene, then cover with celluclay or plaster-gauze.
hope that helps
cheers
joe
gradients can be produced in a number if ways, i recommend building up to the required gradient with polystyrene, then cover with celluclay or plaster-gauze.
hope that helps
cheers
joe
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 12:28 AM UTC
Soil can be done with wall spackle (house putty). The stuff you use to cover joints in your inside walls. You can also use celluclay (paper mache).
Depending on the ground you are depicting you can add some dirt or sand for texture.
One thing you can do to make a stronger ground is to add white glue to the mix (any of the above).
To gain elevation you can use packing styrofoam, the stuff electronics are packed in. Cut to shape and glue down, then cover with the ground material.
Others use florists green foam used to hold flower arrangements.
You can even go so far as to use old scrap wood.
Things to consider are weight and coverage. How heavy will it become (don't want it to heavy) and how can I cover it....
Hope this gives you a start..... ask more as you go.
Depending on the ground you are depicting you can add some dirt or sand for texture.
One thing you can do to make a stronger ground is to add white glue to the mix (any of the above).
To gain elevation you can use packing styrofoam, the stuff electronics are packed in. Cut to shape and glue down, then cover with the ground material.
Others use florists green foam used to hold flower arrangements.
You can even go so far as to use old scrap wood.
Things to consider are weight and coverage. How heavy will it become (don't want it to heavy) and how can I cover it....
Hope this gives you a start..... ask more as you go.
nato308
Iowa, United States
Joined: October 23, 2003
KitMaker: 884 posts
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Joined: October 23, 2003
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 12:43 AM UTC
I use natural soils, The colors are endless, although I do tend to paint them with color washes to help blend them into the diorama. I use a very fine mesh strainer (the kind you would use in the kitchen for flour or a tea strainer also works well) to get the desired texture, rough or to very fine dust. Build your gradient with celluclay or sculpt a mold paint it a matching base color, and then used thinned white glue or Woodlands senics matte medium to adhear it to the base. I use a folded piece of paper and lay the soil into the fold of the paper and blow it softly over the wet paint or the senics matte medium until covered. Should work well for you good luck.
Sealhead
Kansas, United States
Joined: May 18, 2003
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Joined: May 18, 2003
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 12:48 AM UTC
When my neighbor was digging up a trench for a drain line, he had a patch of super-fine dirt. It is perfect for my 1/35th work. Look around...it's "dirt" cheap! Sorry.
Also, consider Durham's Water Putty. I add a little tile grout powder coloring (green or brown) so no gold will show when I drill holes for plants, etc.
Sealhead (Kansas Sunflower) Currently encased in ice!
Also, consider Durham's Water Putty. I add a little tile grout powder coloring (green or brown) so no gold will show when I drill holes for plants, etc.
Sealhead (Kansas Sunflower) Currently encased in ice!
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 01:10 AM UTC
I've used simpple celluclay for soil. In scale, you won't notice the difference. Adding some texture won't hurt, but IMHO, isn't thast important.
To build gradients, I'm with the other posters. Styrofoam from shipping boxes is my grade of choice.
To build gradients, I'm with the other posters. Styrofoam from shipping boxes is my grade of choice.
keenan
Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
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Joined: October 16, 2002
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 01:22 AM UTC
I use Celluclay (which is just instant paper mache') and kitty litter. (No I don't have a cat, referencing cat thread...)
Paint an earth colored base coat, wash and dry brush, and static grass and dry brush.
HTH,
Shaun
Note: No paint or grass on this yet....
Paint an earth colored base coat, wash and dry brush, and static grass and dry brush.
HTH,
Shaun
Note: No paint or grass on this yet....
flitzer
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: November 13, 2003
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 02:28 AM UTC
Hi Leopold, and welcome.
In addition to the good advice already given, you might consider sand; it comes in many grades. Also for small stones or pebbles you could use fine fish tank material they use for the bottom. There is one that is real fine stone.
Good luck
Peter
In addition to the good advice already given, you might consider sand; it comes in many grades. Also for small stones or pebbles you could use fine fish tank material they use for the bottom. There is one that is real fine stone.
Good luck
Peter
ambrose82
California, United States
Joined: November 15, 2003
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 04:11 AM UTC
I use natural soil mixed with white glue. Add some paint for thorough coloring or paint after it's applied. It's an easy way to make realistic mud, because it is mud. Just mix the glue and dirt by sight to the desired consistency and spread it over the groundwork.
This same mix can be used to add realistic mud and dirt effects to armor and figures. Just add a little static grass of clipped paint brush bristles (the super cheap kind) and you've got a tank that's been out getting dirty.
Here's a link to some pics of my Panzer iv with the first stage of mud applied. Hasn't been drybrushed yet...
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/22830&page=1
Hope it helps!
This same mix can be used to add realistic mud and dirt effects to armor and figures. Just add a little static grass of clipped paint brush bristles (the super cheap kind) and you've got a tank that's been out getting dirty.
Here's a link to some pics of my Panzer iv with the first stage of mud applied. Hasn't been drybrushed yet...
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/22830&page=1
Hope it helps!
Manchu34
Missouri, United States
Joined: March 08, 2002
KitMaker: 493 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 08:40 AM UTC
Besides using spackel, lately I've been using "Woodland Scenics" supplies designed for railroading modeling. You can see some samples of how it looks by going to my gallery and look at the photos of the Foxhole and the M151A2 with TOW.
StarTraveler
Louisiana, United States
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 09:19 AM UTC
I have been doing model railroads for about the last 6-7 years. I use quite a bit of the scenic materials on my models as well. You can find everything from very fine powdered material to rubble, trees, vines, lichen, etc.
I use a fine dirt or mud coloered material mixed with a 50/50 mix of white glue to water and it modelsdried mud on armor very well. Gives it a great texture.
Drawback is cost. Usually on the expensive side. But you can do many things with it.
I use a fine dirt or mud coloered material mixed with a 50/50 mix of white glue to water and it modelsdried mud on armor very well. Gives it a great texture.
Drawback is cost. Usually on the expensive side. But you can do many things with it.
Leopold
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: January 26, 2004
KitMaker: 446 posts
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Joined: January 26, 2004
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Posted: Monday, January 26, 2004 - 10:42 PM UTC
hey..thanks guys...
i ll take yr advices
i ll take yr advices
thedude
Texas, United States
Joined: January 26, 2004
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Joined: January 26, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 07:41 PM UTC
i never tired the white glue before. i think its worth the try tho. up til now i used baking powder and paint for textures and what not. i tried the senic woodland fine stuff but i think i applied it wrong. i got some spray glue and all the glue did when i put the stuff down was clump up. the store didnt have the right kinda stuff, so that scenic woodland stuff may not be for everyone. im sure i can experiment tho. give the baking powder a try if you like.. and you can also use it for snow
Major_Goose
Kikladhes, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: September 30, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 08:09 PM UTC
besides what said already above that it is well checked and working i use for fine fresh digged soil nutmeg in powder (from your moms kitchen) , cinammon alos in powder and a lot of other condiments that are available in several colours very cheap in large packs and do not having problems,i use them with 3M spray adhesive in several layers to achieve the wanted effect
mastertyno
Porto, Portugal
Joined: December 27, 2002
KitMaker: 339 posts
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Joined: December 27, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 - 04:26 AM UTC
I usually use the real thing... I go to the park near home and spend some time searching... I always find want I need... If something is missing, then I go to the store and buy some scenic elements used in railroad modelling, ther're so much and of great quality... Like some one said, the drawback of it is that it's expensive...
See yaaa
See yaaa