Hello
When sanding a seam with a fine gap the plastic dust? fills the gap,can painting seal the gap or do i still need to use a filler?
AFV Painting & Weathering
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Fine Gaps
pam123
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 01:10 AM UTC
Thudius
Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 01:19 AM UTC
There will most likely still be a slight seam. Clean off the dust and brush on a little paint/primer to check.
Kimmo
Kimmo
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 01:45 AM UTC
You can fill narrow gaps with white glue. Just don't sand it, afterwards.
badger66
Texas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 02:19 AM UTC
Or white out
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 02:26 AM UTC
Mr Surfacer 500 in the jar
pam123
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 04:28 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You can fill narrow gaps with white glue. Just don't sand it, afterwards.
I have white glue,why no sand?
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 04:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextYou can fill narrow gaps with white glue. Just don't sand it, afterwards.
I have white glue,why no sand?
The bulk of the glue will peel away.
brekinapez
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 05:12 AM UTC
I've not used white glue that way but I imagine all you do is wipe away the excess (with finger I guess) and leave the rest to dry. That way you won't have much to worry about sanding.
pam123
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 05:28 AM UTC
Thanks for all the replies,I'll be using the white glue idea.
jasmils
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 06:24 AM UTC
I use Tamiya Thin mixed with Squadron Green to a thin consistency, and run a bead line along the seam. This fills the seam and can be easily sanded once dry.
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 06:39 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Mr Surfacer 500 in the jar
Yep,Mr Surfacer 500 or Mr Dissolved putty
Belt_Fed
New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 07:37 AM UTC
apply a bead of gap filling super glue, then spritz it with accelerator and begin sanding IMMEDIATELY
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 10:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I use Tamiya Thin mixed with Squadron Green to a thin consistency, and run a bead line along the seam. This fills the seam and can be easily sanded once dry.
I do this too, but with Squadron White. Don't think there's any difference between the two, except for color. But white color is more universal. Apply on the tip of a small blade - just like buttering toast - and sand.
RLlockie
United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, November 06, 2015 - 01:16 AM UTC
Yes, I'd fill it and I'd recommend using something that sets hard and can be sanded so that you don't end up with a raised bead where the surface should be flat. PVA won't work for that. After using several proprietary tube fillers for years (Squadron and Tamiya) I picked up some Bondo spot putty in Walmart on a visit to the U.S. and started using that recently.
I'm V impressed - sets hard, sands easily, appears not to shrink and economical. Now I know why so many builds I see by North American modellers have red putty visible. Only drawback is that the solvent separated (I bought it a while ago) so I had to massage the tube a bit to mix it again.
I'm V impressed - sets hard, sands easily, appears not to shrink and economical. Now I know why so many builds I see by North American modellers have red putty visible. Only drawback is that the solvent separated (I bought it a while ago) so I had to massage the tube a bit to mix it again.
Leopard-2
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Friday, November 06, 2015 - 01:47 AM UTC
Opaque white is what I use for really fine gaps. Excess can easily be removed with a wet Q-Tip etc.