Hello all!

I just finished my first ever model kit (new hobby).
It's a PzKpfw V Panther Ausf. D that did battle in Kursk July 1943.

Also, I'm looking in a diorama to build. Not sure what to build.

I would love to hear what you experts think of my first kit

Thanks very much!

Sen

Hard to tell from the small pics, but it looks good to me!

You can Click on the picks for larger images :-)

Very nice initial effort. One could always nit pick but overall a good looking build for a first timer. Some things to consider for next time, maybe a bit of rust on the exhaust and tow cable. Nice consistent weathering otherwise. Looking forward to seeing you improve as you develop your skills and techniques, and to seeing more of your work.

Ah ok! Nice work!

Great effort keep up the good work.

Welcome

Good job for the first completed model..

Erhan..

Indeed, as Armorsmith said, really nice first effort.

Sure, there are a number of things you can do to make things better, but that will come with practice.

You've tried (and mostly succeeded) in several advanced weathering techniques that I normally advise newbies not to bother with, so good on 'ya.

Keep it up.

Paul

Excellent work! My first model was painted, with rattle cans and had no weathering.

Excellent first effort

Wow everybody, thanks so much for all the compliments! I didn't knew it was that good for a first try. Really motivating :-)

Indeed I tried different weathering techniques, but I had only limited materials. A few paints and 2 brushes and 1 wash. So the rusty bits where hard without that stuff.

Next model will have some pigments and maybe corrosion or something like that.

Question 1: I used a primer black spray paint. But after painting the first beige layer the effect was that the beige was quite dark and look hard. Is it better to use a lighter primer if I''m going to paint a light main colour?

Question 2: The painting of the chipping was tricky ot do with my pencil brush, are there other ways to do that? Or just a finer pencil?

Question 3: I had a major challenge gluing the tracks to the wheels so the looked tight. The model glue as the super glue would stick it. They would just dissolve the plastic. I ended up using normal hobby glue, but the fit isn't very strong. Any suggestions for the next tracks?

Thanks again everybody!

Pertaining to your first question, I always lay down a base coat that is lighter than the lightest color I will be using. This is extremely beneficial, if you do any pre-shading.

There is a wide ranging discussion on light versus dark primers or no primer at all. The best way is to look at painting articles and decide for your self which works best for you, Try painting several ways. Practice.

There really is no "best" way. It all depends on what method works best for you.

And, for the record, I never prime.




YouTube has a number of tutorials on chipping and most involve exceptionally fine brushes or, in some cases fine sponges to achieve the look. Personally, I find that chipping on WW II armour is far overdone to be realistic. Remember, the lifespan on these vehicles was measured in days and weeks. There was virtually no time for paint to chip or rust. Most of them would have looked showroom new. Dirty, yes, but not beat up.

Post war armour, especially that in poorer countries, really does start to look beat up and rusted out, but armour in 1st and 2nd world armies generally doesn't.

Use photos to guide you as opposed to other models. Models go through "fashions" and "fads" and may not be representative of the real thing.




If the track is the old school vinyl "rubber band" style, then nothing will really glue them to anything else. There are a number of tricks to get the sag on a Panther or T-55 and they include the use of thread to sew the tracks down to the road wheel axles and fine pins or wire located to force the track down to the correct position. None are really effective. The best for that kind of saggy track are one of the separate link or length and link style tracks available nowadays.

For tanks with taut tracks, like Shermans, or Abrams, the rubber band style works well and you attach the two ends of the rubber band by heating a screwdriver in a flame and melting the ends of the pins over. Old school, but it works well. You can hide the join under a road wheel or with some muck from the base's groundwork.

HTH

Paul

Knowing that you had only limited materials, your finished product is brilliant. As to priming with black....I pre and post shade extensively so I tend to use dark colors before the initial base coat. Prior to using this technique I did not prime at all. Even without a dark primer the overall finish of your model will become somewhat darker during the weathering process. One way to mitigate this is to use a lightened base coat as it is always easier to make the finish darker than to try to lighten it up. Just depends on the look you are going for.

Not a big fan of chipping myself as I feel it is generally overdone. However the easiest way is to use a pencil as you have done. You might want to give an artist pencil a try. These come in various colors and are softer than your standard #2pencil. Another method is to use a small piece of sponge, dip it in the paint then blot it on a paper towel until there is barely any paint on it then gently apply it to the desired areas in a stabbing motion so as not to smear it. As stated there also video how to that show other techniques as well.

As a beginner I wouldn't sweat the tracks too much for now. Rubber band tracks are notoriously difficult for numerous reasons including glue and paint adhesion. Stapling or sewing them together is another option if you cannot get them to hold by melting the tabs.

As you build more armor and refine your skills and techniques these thing will not seem as daunting. There are plenty of us out here who are willing to help and what we have learned(mostly the hard way).

Congratulations on what, in my opinion, is an excellent build using very limited resources.