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Fruil guide
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 11:59 AM UTC
Hi Everyone,
I just received my mid-late Tiger I tracks by Fruil. Can anyone recommend an online tutorial for these? I've read the directions and they say to drill. But is it better to hand drill, or risk breaking out the Dremel. I haven't even started gluing plastic to plastic (still doing zimmerit) but I'm thinking the tracks may take longer than the rest combined.

Thanks for reading,

Gary
Lawyer1
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South Africa
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 12:32 PM UTC
Hi Gary

I've always used a pinvise with the appropriate size bit in the vise. You have way more control doing it this way as opposed to using a Dremel.

Enjoy
russ
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 04:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Gary

I've always used a pinvise with the appropriate size bit in the vise. You have way more control doing it this way as opposed to using a Dremel.

Enjoy



I agree with Dudley, use a pinvise, it doesn't take that long and is easier than you think. They are great tracks.

Neil
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 04:49 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Hi Gary

I've always used a pinvise with the appropriate size bit in the vise. You have way more control doing it this way as opposed to using a Dremel.

Enjoy



I agree with Dudley, use a pinvise, it doesn't take that long and is easier than you think. They are great tracks.

Neil



Concur with all above! Use a pin-vise...

It'll take you longer and is more tedious, but you WILL have more control over what you're working with.

Just another suggestion:

I like to substitute fine-gauge "Florist's Wire" for the FRIUL steel wire. It usually comes in GREEN, and can be found in any "Crafts" shop, or even at WAL-MART's, or virtually any other big shopping centers with a "Crafts" section. You just need to cut it to length, and insert it in your Track-join, just as you would FRIUL's wire. The florist's wire is more pliable, easier to cut, and fits inside the Tracks better, in that it's a thicker gauge than the FRIUL-supplied wire. The florist's wire is a tighter fit, and will not fall out on you...
Karl187
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 04:51 PM UTC
I used to use a pin vice but it took ages. I use a standard electric drill now- one that sits on its battery and I take it nice and easy- gets things done much faster. Once you get into the groove of it, its a piece of cake.
vettejack
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 05:52 PM UTC
Use a pinvise and prepare every hole in the track. Then toss the wire that comes with Friul to the side for something else and use .020 brass rod to help 'stiffin' up the links with more, and better, security.
easyco69
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 06:03 PM UTC
here's a vid.
Tojo72
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 06:35 PM UTC
I drill them by hand with a pin vise,not a big problem,it goes pretty fast.I also use the kit wire,I just use the whole length of wire for leverage,stick it in and cut it off,don't cut it 1st and insert it,it's easier to use the whole length.I never had any issues with the kit wire falling out,or not being secure,or links coming apart.
cabasner
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 06:39 PM UTC
I agree with all the others about using a pinvise. However, one thing they haven't mentioned that I do is to put two links together, hold them in place, use the pinvise to open the space where the wire will be inserted while the 2 links are held together. This ensures that the wire (even the Friul supplied wire) will slip into place. To be honest, there is a chance that the wire will slip out, particularly if you do it this way, but I have not experienced that often, and I don't use any kind of glue to hold the wire in place. I rely on friction. It seems to work. If you find that a particular wire is slipping out of place, you could use a bit of super glue on the end where you inserted the wire. Hope this makes sense and helps. I find that when I get into a rythym, I could probably finish a set of Tiger tracks in 2-3 hours, but often stop when my fingers get tired or sore.

Just wanted to add that I do it the way Anthony does, and I use the roll of wire, and don't cut it until I have the wire inserted, then trim/cut it. You could pull the wire back a millimeter or so before you make the cut, then push the remaining bit back in. This has worked well for me.
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 06:39 PM UTC
Here are several videos.

https://m.youtube.com/results?q=how%20to%20assemble%20friul%20model%20tracks&sm=3
Lawyer1
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South Africa
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 07:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I agree with all the others about using a pinvise. However, one thing they haven't mentioned that I do is to put two links together, hold them in place, use the pinvise to open the space where the wire will be inserted while the 2 links are held together. This ensures that the wire (even the Friul supplied wire) will slip into place. To be honest, there is a chance that the wire will slip out, particularly if you do it this way, but I have not experienced that often, and I don't use any kind of glue to hold the wire in place. I rely on friction. It seems to work. If you find that a particular wire is slipping out of place, you could use a bit of super glue on the end where you inserted the wire. Hope this makes sense and helps. I find that when I get into a rythym, I could probably finish a set of Tiger tracks in 2-3 hours, but often stop when my fingers get tired or sore.

Just wanted to add that I do it the way Anthony does, and I use the roll of wire, and don't cut it until I have the wire inserted, then trim/cut it. You could pull the wire back a millimeter or so before you make the cut, then push the remaining bit back in. This has worked well for me.



That's exactly the way I assemble my tracks - thanks for the more detailed explanation, Curt.
rfbaer
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 09:05 PM UTC
I use .020 or .014 steel wire, depending the link and hole size, only drill when absolutely necessary, and the friction of the wire opening the holes in the links is usually enough to keep the wire in. I also cut after the wire is in, but using a good pair of end-cutters to insert the wire, then pull it back out the appropriate length before cutting to "bury" the cut end in the link before re-inserting.
SpadeAce wire is perfect, by the way. It's soft enough to square the cut end with a nail file after cutting, and stiff enough to go in without drilling the links in most cases. The curvature of the wire left from it being coiled in the box also serves to keep it in after assembly.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 09:28 PM UTC
[quote]I use .020 or .014 steel wire, depending the link and hole size, only drill when absolutely necessary, and the friction of the wire opening the holes in the links is usually enough to keep the wire in. I also cut after the wire is in, but using a good pair of end-cutters to insert the wire, then pull it back out the appropriate length before cutting to "bury" the cut end in the link before re-inserting.
SpadeAce wire is perfect, by the way. It's soft enough to square the cut end with a nail file after cutting, and stiff enough to go in without drilling the links in most cases. The curvature of the wire left from it being coiled in the box also serves to keep it in after assembly.[/quot

I agree with everything that the other guys have said, except for my own use of the Florist's Wire. I like this stuff because it is made of softer metal, thereby making easier to cut, file, and clean up, and it is also a bit more "user-friendly" in that you readily won't cut yourself if you should jab yourself with it.

Once I've placed and "formed" my Tracks around my Suspension parts, I place a dab of cyano-glue in strategic places to keep everything in place. Anyway, that's what works for me.
cabasner
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Nevada, United States
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Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 10:06 PM UTC

Quoted Text

...
SpadeAce wire is perfect, by the way. It's soft enough to square the cut end with a nail file after cutting, and stiff enough to go in without drilling the links in most cases. The curvature of the wire left from it being coiled in the box also serves to keep it in after assembly.



I agree that the SpadeAce wire is ideal, stiff enough to push through most of the imperfections in the link holes. I have never measured the wire, though, and can't say what to use if you wanted to buy extra wire to use in Friul tracks. I've found that many people complain that their wire is too hard to cut, but in my experience, a reasonably stout pair of wire cutters works just fine!
Gewehr43
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Michigan, United States
Joined: May 12, 2014
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Posted: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 12:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I agree with all the others about using a pinvise. However, one thing they haven't mentioned that I do is to put two links together, hold them in place, use the pinvise to open the space where the wire will be inserted while the 2 links are held together. This ensures that the wire (even the Friul supplied wire) will slip into place. To be honest, there is a chance that the wire will slip out, particularly if you do it this way, but I have not experienced that often, and I don't use any kind of glue to hold the wire in place. I rely on friction. It seems to work. If you find that a particular wire is slipping out of place, you could use a bit of super glue on the end where you inserted the wire. Hope this makes sense and helps. I find that when I get into a rythym, I could probably finish a set of Tiger tracks in 2-3 hours, but often stop when my fingers get tired or sore.

Just wanted to add that I do it the way Anthony does, and I use the roll of wire, and don't cut it until I have the wire inserted, then trim/cut it. You could pull the wire back a millimeter or so before you make the cut, then push the remaining bit back in. This has worked well for me.



That's exactly the way I assemble my tracks - thanks for the more detailed explanation, Curt.



Same here regarding the wire insertion and trimming. The only difference is, I don't bother drilling any holes. I put the two links together and run the wire in as far as it will go. Then, I grab the wire with a small pair of needle nose pliers a few millimeters from the links and gently twist the wire back and forth. It'll usually slide right in with a little twist, then I move the pliers out a few more mm's and repeat. Once the wire bottoms out, I pull it out a mm or two, cut it, and push it back into the links.

I can build one side of just about any German WWII AFV in just under an hour. Unless it's using ATL-22's. To hell with those.
easyco69
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Posted: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 12:29 AM UTC
wash your hands & do not snack
rfbaer
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Posted: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 01:26 AM UTC
Yup, the black stuff that ends up on your fingers is bad juju.
So I think I need to look for some florists' wire, sounds neat.
The SpadeAce wire I've used so far, all from "bigger" links like JS2, MerkIV, was all .018", not sure what the metric equivalent is.
And I do use my end cutters to hold the wire as I insert it into two joined links, twisting and pushing as I go until it bottoms, when I pull it out about a mil, cut it flush and shove it back in, sometimes having to use a file tip to do so. I'm thinking about putting something on my end cutters to do that with.
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 01:29 AM UTC
Hey Guys,
Thank you for the links, video, and great advice. I really appreciate it! I'd never heard of the white vinegar treatment. Should prove interesting!

Gary
Armorsmith
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Posted: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 02:10 AM UTC
The vinegar is essentially an acid that will etch the metal and also help to clean it to some extent. Soaking PE parts in vinegar also give them a bit of tooth that helps with gluing and painting.
bill_c
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 03:22 AM UTC
Be sure to de-grease your tracks before using Blacken-It or other track blackeners. And gun bluing works very well, too.
rfbaer
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Posted: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 03:27 AM UTC
"Black stuff" was a semi-humorous term for the deposit left on the cotton gloves I wear when working with white-metal tracks, which is something you don't want on your skin for any length of time. I wore latex gloves at work for 20 years, hate them.
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 06:41 AM UTC
I'm curious: what is this white metal? Is it lead? Some lead-alloy composite? obviously if I can affect it with a bit in a pin vise, it's not steel.

Appreciating all of the great info that's popping up in this thread.

Gary
Vicious
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Posted: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 07:14 AM UTC
White metal is a alloy,before was 90%-95 Tin,lead and antimony,now the pewter sobstitute the lead for obvius reasons,is the classic metal for the "tin soldier o Lead Soldiers"
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