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Fruit Char B1 Bis Tracks
awrc
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 18, 2005
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Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 04:01 AM UTC
Has anybody else run into this issue with Fruil's Char B1 Bis tracks? I bought two sets quite a while back, and hadn't really started to try to build any until recently, but I've found that the links flat out won't fit together. There are supposed to be overlapping "circles" at the front and rear of each link that, when the links are pushed together, are then joined with wire to hold them together.

However, I'm finding that on the rear of each link, the so-called "circles" are badly cast on the majority of links, so that there's a "ledge" anything up to 1mm wide intruding on what's supposed to be a flat surface. Since it's white metal, it's cuttable, but it's very difficult to cut away the ledge cleanly without damaging the link - it's tricky enough that I'm on the verge of binning both sets (since both sets of tracks exhibit the same poor casting). As the links stand, it's impossible to get the wire holes at the front and rear of each to line up - can't even get within a couple of mm of it.

Did I just get bad sets because I bought these soon after Fruil released them, or is this a common problem? Is there a solution? I've built a lot of Fruil tracks of all shapes and sizes, but these are the first I've encountered where I'm completely stumped and about to trash them.

I'd include a picture but my phone can't take that close a pic, and I imagine a drawing won't help. Anybody who has attempted to build these tracks will know the area I mean - where the two parts of the links to be joined overlap. Is it just me, or is this a problem with all links of this type?

Utterly frustrated by these. I've been doing a lot of tracks lately and I've gotten used to having to cut off flash or overpours, but these just seem to be flat out badly designed.
SgtRam
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#197
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 06, 2011
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Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 04:16 AM UTC
I had a set, and they totally frustrated me too. The casting was awful, the fit was awful, and that collar piece in the center made assembly almost impossible.

I have found the overall quality of the Fruils I have had, some used, some sold, have been low. In my opinion the quality of the track link casting does not support the cost they are asking for them.

I have switched to Master Club tracks, find the quality much better, and the resin pins make construction much easier.
AFVFan
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
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Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 05:41 AM UTC
I'm assuming you're talking about Tamiya's B1. If so, why are you replacing the tracks to begin with? The kit supplied tracks are probably the best "factory made" ones in existence. They're pretty nicely detailed, and a modelers dream to work with.

Just my opinion....
VelluS
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Keski-Suomi, Finland
Joined: November 04, 2014
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Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 06:05 AM UTC
I agree with Bob. There is no reason to change Tamiya´s tracks to Friuls in Char B 1bis. If you have older AL-BY kit that is different case..
joepanzer
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: January 21, 2004
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Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 08:30 AM UTC
Fruit tracks? Mmmmm...Fruit
jfeenstra
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: April 24, 2014
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Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 08:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I agree with Bob. There is no reason to change Tamiya´s tracks to Friuls in Char B 1bis. If you have older AL-BY kit that is different case..



If you compare the thickness of the Tamiya track plates, versus the thickness of the real tracks (and the Fruil ones), you will see that Tamiya's tracks are definitely not as accurate as they could be. So there is a reason to replace them if the modeller desires the tracks to be more accurate. I'm content with the kit tracks, but don't say that there isn't any reason to change them, because there is!
Beastmaster
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United Kingdom
Joined: January 27, 2009
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Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 11:10 AM UTC
I really don't know why anyone wouldn't use the Tamiya tracks either. Using those Fruil tracks just sounds like creating totally unecessary work for your self even if the Tamiya tracks have a slight thickness inaccuracy. They look perfectly fine to me.
jfeenstra
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: April 24, 2014
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Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 08:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I really don't know why anyone wouldn't use the Tamiya tracks either. Using those Fruil tracks just sounds like creating totally unecessary work for your self even if the Tamiya tracks have a slight thickness inaccuracy. They look perfectly fine to me.



And that's why this hobby is great - everyone can build how they see fit. What may look fine to you and what you term "creating unnecessary work", may not look fine to other modellers (including myself) that enjoy detailing models and striving for more accurate representations of the real thing - we don't consider this unnecessary work and actually enjoy it! Others enjoy building OOTB, and many enjoy the painting and finishing stages moreso then building. To each their own, and it's great to have the products available that allow each of us to build how they want.

awrc
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 18, 2005
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Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 10:27 PM UTC
Exactly if the replacement tracks from Fruil (or, er, Fruit) had gone together the way they're clearly designed to go together, I'd have had no trouble at all spending an extra couple of evenings doing them - thinner edges, particularly the forward link lip, a more easily achieved finish and just the extra heft they add to the tank, would have made them worth the effort. I'll even spend every evening for a couple of weeks working on something - which is about how long it took for me to build the Spade Ace Maus tracks or Fruil's E-100 track.

The extra work associated with Fruils - clearing out bores, removing burrs, cleaning prior to blackening - I don't see as extra work. However, the point of my post is that as far as I can see, the sets I've bought flat out cannot be assembled the way they're intended to be where the two links are supposed to slide together, there's a large metal "shelf" on that completely prevents them from sliding together. It's not even a rough blob from casting, it looks as though whoever was creating the master didn't finish clearing an area out.

The vast majority of links have this flaw, the only way to fix it appears to be to clip the second link, and that then requires the two links to be in a straight line. Yet, Terry on PMMS has clearly managed to build a set, which has me wondering if there's a trick I'm missing, if I've just been unlucky in getting a badly cast set or what.

I'd like to establish that there's no chance Fruil will admit fault and exchange them for a correctly cast set before using the provided tracks - which are very nice as kit tracks go, but just aren't quite as nice (IMHO) as the Fruils.
rfbaer
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Texas, United States
Joined: June 12, 2007
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Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 12:01 AM UTC
I can't make any comment on the specific set under discussion, but I can say something regarding their Merkava IV tracks: they don't fit the sprocket supplied in the box, nor do they fit the Academy kit sprocket. I emailed Friul and got no response.
I have assembled many other sets of Friuls, and have had excellent results, so I am curious.
awrc
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 18, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 01:16 AM UTC
I put together a pic showing how the parts don't fit, but unfortunately don't have any place to upload an image - it's not a photo of the links, alas, I just threw together a drawing. Oh well, it probably wouldn't have cleared anything up anyway.

To the person who mentioned the Fruil Merkava IV tracks - the first Merkava IV on the market was from Legend and if I remember correctly, the Fruil tracks appeared *before* any of the injection kits, is it possible that was what the tracks were sized to fit? You might find somebody with a spare Legend kit they don't plan to build - the thing was so darn heavy (solid turret, mainly solid hull) that the kit suspension couldn't support its weight.

Since you never got a response from them on the Merkava sprockets, I'll assume I'd get a similar silence on any Char B1 Bis query - the Fruil tracks go in a corner and I'll give Fruil a wide berth in future, except for tracks that I know go together easily (i.e. I've got a need for a good number lot of T-34-85, T-55/62 and T-72 tracks and I know those go together nicely...).

Anybody know of good tracks for the Sturer Emil and Neubaufahrzeug? I may just use the kit tracks in the latter (it's the Amusing kit, so the kit tracks are Modelkasten quality) but the tracks I've got for the former, from WWII productions, fall apart as soon as you breathe on them.
rinaldi119
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Oregon, United States
Joined: September 22, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 01:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I put together a pic showing how the parts don't fit, but unfortunately don't have any place to upload an image - it's not a photo of the links, alas, I just threw together a drawing. Oh well, it probably wouldn't have cleared anything up anyway.

To the person who mentioned the Fruil Merkava IV tracks - the first Merkava IV on the market was from Legend and if I remember correctly, the Fruil tracks appeared *before* any of the injection kits, is it possible that was what the tracks were sized to fit? You might find somebody with a spare Legend kit they don't plan to build - the thing was so darn heavy (solid turret, mainly solid hull) that the kit suspension couldn't support its weight.

Since you never got a response from them on the Merkava sprockets, I'll assume I'd get a similar silence on any Char B1 Bis query - the Fruil tracks go in a corner and I'll give Fruil a wide berth in future, except for tracks that I know go together easily (i.e. I've got a need for a good number lot of T-34-85, T-55/62 and T-72 tracks and I know those go together nicely...).

Anybody know of good tracks for the Sturer Emil and Neubaufahrzeug? I may just use the kit tracks in the latter (it's the Amusing kit, so the kit tracks are Modelkasten quality) but the tracks I've got for the former, from WWII productions, fall apart as soon as you breathe on them.



The Friul Char B1 bis tracks are indeed a more complicated affair, and think they might have erred on the connection area -- it helps to give them a quick swipe with a Dremel to allow them to slot together more easily...however, it's the only set on over 50 different tank sets I've assembled from them that were so.

I wouldn't have an over cautious attitude towards their use on other tracked vehicles. I think Friulmodel wanted to make the Char tracks as close as possible to how they work in reality, and made them harder to assemble then need be. That said, once assembled they are indeed a definite improvement over the kit tracks in visual appearance and refinement, just like the rest of their line up tends to be.
awrc
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 18, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 04:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text


The Friul Char B1 bis tracks are indeed a more complicated affair, and think they might have erred on the connection area



A mistake that looks a bit like in the picture attached?

It's not the clearest - couldn't get a nice rendering - but basically each link has two vertical bars (only one shown in the pic), the front of which have semi-circular bits that stick out (and are about half the width of the bars), the rear of which have semi-circular indentations that the protrusions from the circle beside are supposed to slide into - not shown in my pic (if my pic shows up at all) are the holes in the middle of each semi-circle, which is where the wire pin goes. How they're *supposed* to go together is fairly clear - the two semi-circles overlap and are held together by the wire to make a joint) but the problem is that the semi-circular indentation on the rear of most links has a flat, straight-edge "ledge" in it that means it isn't remotely the right shape, so the link behind doesn't fit there it should.


Quoted Text


-- it helps to give them a quick swipe with a Dremel to allow them to slot together more easily...however, it's the only set on over 50 different tank sets I've assembled from them that were so.



I'd tried to cut the ledges out, but a Dremel may well work better - might remove some material I don't mean to, but the wires should hold things in roughly the right place.


Quoted Text

I wouldn't have an over cautious attitude towards their use on other tracked vehicles. I think Friulmodel wanted to make the Char tracks as close as possible to how they work in reality, and made them harder to assemble then need be. That said, once assembled they are indeed a definite improvement over the kit tracks in visual appearance and refinement, just like the rest of their line up tends to be.



My guess on the Char B1 Bis links is that if they'd been properly cast - without that ledge - then links would have fitted quite snugly together and the worst big would have been getting the wires through the circular tubes. However, if the sets I've got are anything to go by, they somehow came up with a design that cast badly. Far too many of the links in my sets have a wedge like the bit shown blue in my image on the rear joining semi-circles - I'd guess maybe 70% of links. That's more like a mold design error than anything else and frankly I think that Fruil should be exchanging the pieces for properly cast ones.

Still, I'll try the Dremel and see if there's a bit that does the trick. I may not have done 50 sets, but I've done enough different sets to have experienced a fairly wide assortment of their tracks, and while I've encountered plenty of cases where a #11 needs to be taken to deburr something, or the bores need cleaned, or they're just plain fiddly to assemble (early type Tiger II tracks come to mind), or they're just better built with either brass rod or music wire (brass rod for preference, but for something like the E-100 tracks the length of wire and the thinness of the wire made music wire the better option), this is the first set I've ever had to give up on.

Well, almost give up on - I'll take a Dremel to a link or two and see if I can get rid of that ledge - if I can, they should go together quite easily.

awrc
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 18, 2005
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Posted: Monday, January 11, 2016 - 02:02 AM UTC
Not the best drawing, I realize. I've spent most of the morning trying to use an assortment of Dremel pieces to remove the "blue wedge" or just push back the edge of the indented semicircle so that the pieces fit together.

However, no joy. While the Fruils, properly assembled, would be much nicer than the kit tracks, I'd rather go with intact kit tracks than Fruils I've had to beat into shape with a blunt instrument (that two sets of these tracks cost about $75 adds a little extra violence into the beating too - for what Fruil tracks cost, the fact that it appears a faulty *design* made it into the market adds a little extra anger).

So I'm sticking the Fruils in a corner - the kits have both got nice Blast conversions and Aber PE, maybe the thick track won't be so noticeable :-)
rinaldi119
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Oregon, United States
Joined: September 22, 2004
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Posted: Monday, January 11, 2016 - 03:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Not the best drawing, I realize. I've spent most of the morning trying to use an assortment of Dremel pieces to remove the "blue wedge" or just push back the edge of the indented semicircle so that the pieces fit together.

However, no joy. While the Fruils, properly assembled, would be much nicer than the kit tracks, I'd rather go with intact kit tracks than Fruils I've had to beat into shape with a blunt instrument (that two sets of these tracks cost about $75 adds a little extra violence into the beating too - for what Fruil tracks cost, the fact that it appears a faulty *design* made it into the market adds a little extra anger).

So I'm sticking the Fruils in a corner - the kits have both got nice Blast conversions and Aber PE, maybe the thick track won't be so noticeable :-)



I'd suggest removing material from the male end, not from the slot you marked in blue. It's difficult to advise without a set in front of me, or a good photo to ref., going off of memory here but I believe that was the trick.
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