do anyone know the right mixture for dry blushing german grey?
I mix dark earth and german grey for dry blushing,but I doubt this is the right combination.
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dry brushing german grey
avenue
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Posted: Friday, January 15, 2016 - 08:56 AM UTC
Armorsmith
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Posted: Friday, January 15, 2016 - 09:11 AM UTC
I assume you want a lighter shade for dry brushing. Mix the German grey with a light buff color or a lighter grey. You can use white in a pinch but it tends to make the color chalky. It's actually easier to start with the buff/light grey and add the German grey as it is easier to darken a lighter color than to lighten a darker one. You will use much less paint. If you are trying to make the German grey darker I would add just a bit of black or a darker grey color. A dark grey would be my first choice as it will not overpower the bluish tint of the German grey as much as the black. Hope this helps. Good luck.
avenue
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Posted: Friday, January 15, 2016 - 01:45 PM UTC
thanks!
varanusk
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Posted: Friday, January 15, 2016 - 02:29 PM UTC
Agree with above except for the bluish tint... if your grey has any trace of blue, use another one.
And please do not add blue washes...
And please do not add blue washes...
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, January 15, 2016 - 04:18 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Agree with above except for the bluish tint... if your grey has any trace of blue, use another one.
And please do not add blue washes...
Agreed, most emphatically. "German Gray" is GRAY, with NO hint of Blue in the color. In fact, with more information coming to light in the last ten years or so, many modellers have been using "warmer" shades of Gray, as opposed to the cold Blue-ish tones that had been the mode in the past. I for one, ascribe to the warmer Grays, where my German vehicles are concerned.
The Blue-ish tint in German Gray comes from a tendency for the various Gray colors to take on different tones. Depending on the surroundings, a Blue sky overhead is the most influential medium upon any Gray color. This tendency decreases as skies become cloudier. Adding Blue to your paint mix, using Blue Filters and/or Blue washes will not serve to make your model any more "accurate". The last thing you want to do is take your model into the realm of "fantasy"...
Actual German wartime color chips and pieces of German equipment painted in this color show no hint of Blue, even when accounting for age. The following is a bit "off topic", but merely serves to explain some of the visual properties of Gray paint.
Since the late 1970s and early 1980s, the US Air Force, US Navy, and the US Marine Corps specify different Grays for their aircraft. During the early 1970s to mid 1980s, various studies were conducted by the various US Air Arms with different colors to ascertain which group of colors would be the most effective in reducing the ability to spot aircraft in different skies, as the sky is an ever-changing environment. After much experimentation, it was found that various Grays were the most effective in reducing the recognition of aircraft in all weather situations, because GRAY has a reflective tendency to take on the hue of it's surroundings, even when the paint is "DEAD FLAT". This is not so much the case with other camouflage colors. In essence, one could almost call these reflective qualities an "optical illusion".
The German Army had no such luxuries available as to spend their meager funds for "paint studies" in the 1920s-late 1930s, when "German Gray" was so much in evidence. The explanation of such wide use of German Gray is quite simple: Economics...
It should be remembered that 1920s Germany was in a great state of economical and political upheaval subsequent to WWI, and the very harsh terms of the "Treaty of Versailles". These conditions aided greatly in Hitler's rise to power in Germany. Military spending had been greatly curtailed, and Gray paint was available in very large quantities, so the German Army used what was available. As simple as that.
Dark shades of Gray, not always uniform, were used early on, with standardization coming in the late 1930s. This was possible after Hitler taking power, as more and more of Germany's rising economic power was diverted into the Military for the development of newer, and more potent war-making hardware. By early 1943, the German Army had settled on the "Tri-Color" camouflage system for all of their vehicles, once stocks of German Gray had been dep0leted. A detailed discussion of the German Tri-Color camouflage system is better left for another time.
Also agreed, as far as "dry-brushing" is concerned- Use a mixture of German Gray and a Light Earth or Sand, getting gradually lighter in shade by adding Light Gray or White in order to hit the highest points on your model's details. You can start with a "two-to-one" ratio of one two parts of your Germabn Gray to one part of your Light Earth or Sand, and gradually adding very small amounts of your "lightening color" to your dry-brushing mix, and by DECREASING the amount of this mix that you apply to the raised details of your model. The whole idea behind dry-brushing is to only enhance the details of your model, rather than alter the color of it. Dust and dirt effects should be left as separate visual effects from dry-brushing. Dry-brushing should be the last visual effect that you apply to your model, prior to your final "sealer coat".
The trick to dry-brushing is to "go easy" with it- "Less is More"...
Just when you think that you need to add more dry-brushing, STOP! Let everything dry thoroughly, and inspect the model overall. You don't want your model to appear as if it had just been driven through a Flour Mill!
ENJOY!
RLlockie
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Posted: Friday, January 15, 2016 - 09:33 PM UTC
Lack of funds and large supplies of grey paint (not sure of any colour called 'German Grey' though; wasn't it just Dunkelgrau? There were several greys used by German industry, including for naval and air equipments, so the term is not hugely helpful) would not seem to explain either the three-colour Reichswehr scheme used in the 1930s or the two-colour Dunkelgrau/Dunkelbraun scheme which replaced it up until mid-1940. I think there might be more to the background than you suggest. Until Doyle &Co finish the book that Jentz was working on though, I fear that it may remain elusive.
I entirely agree that the blue tinge is massively overdone, as is the lightening of it. The original colour was very dark and such lightening as we see is more down to dust, reflection of light and photographic factors.
I entirely agree that the blue tinge is massively overdone, as is the lightening of it. The original colour was very dark and such lightening as we see is more down to dust, reflection of light and photographic factors.
Biggles2
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 - 05:34 AM UTC
To make black color, blue is required. All black paints contain a quantity of blue. Grey is black + white; blue is not added, but already contained in the formula. The blue will eventually show hints of itself through fading, etc. http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Black
varanusk
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 - 04:57 PM UTC
Glad to see I am not the only one against German bluegrey (or the latest extra-light-almost-white trend) :-)
I think I read somewhere that the grey was to camouflage the vehicles against the asphalt of the roads, hence its dark shade.
As for blue needed to make black, this is correct when you get it by mixing paints however commercial paints are usually produced using pigments:
http://www.paintmaking.com/black.htm
I think I read somewhere that the grey was to camouflage the vehicles against the asphalt of the roads, hence its dark shade.
As for blue needed to make black, this is correct when you get it by mixing paints however commercial paints are usually produced using pigments:
http://www.paintmaking.com/black.htm