Hello

I have been scouring posts here and videos and still don't understand the finishing sequence. I am starting my fleet armor build and would like to do it nice. Where I am hung up Still is filter and wash are they the same?? And do they go on flat or gloss coat. Please correct my example.


Paint
Details(tools. Guns etc)
Gloss coat
Decals
Gloss coat
Filter? Still don't understand this line.
Gloss coat.
Flat coat
Wash
Flat coat
Pigments
Flat coat
Dry brush.

Hi Eugene,
As for references, usually articles on magazines have step by step descriptions of the paint process. You can find also useful information on features here, on Ammo website and the excellent video series of Adam Wilder

As for your sequence, as long as your base is acrylic and let dry every layer, you do not need to give flat or gloss coats between effects.

My personal order is:
Base paint
Filters
Decals
Washes
Drybrush
Details
Pigments

A filter is very thin (diluted) and subtly changes the tones of the base paint, while the wash is thicker and goes into recesses and grooves only, to add depth. Filters work better on a flat paint and washes need at least a satin base, in this case you would need to use varnish

Thank you for the tips, I only have the Flory Models washes and while they work for jets. I haven't seen to find the right combo on what to do for the steps. So thank you.

So for a new guy to Armor what would be a good set of filters/washes to get I've looked at MIG and Ammo An and it looks to be the same stuff just re branded?,. I see you tube and around the forums about the washes being oil,enamel,clay base. So that is my confusion. So far i will be using Tamiya and model master acryl paints as that is what is available and the LHS. I have 15 shermans 2 Tigers,2 Nashorns and 2 Stugs of course none are built yet. To nervous to mess up a Dragon kit so I just got a Tamiya need a Nichimo to start off.

The kind of paint used doesn't really matter, although enamel paint might be difficult to find depending on your LHS and willingness to pay shipping vie shopping on the net. I personally use Tamiya acrylics as they are readily available, airbrush nicely, are easy to clean up, and have little/no odor. The type of clear coat you choose will depend on what type of weathering products you choose to use. So if you are weathering with oils/enamels as I do use an acrylic clear gloss such as Testors, Tamiya or Future as these won't be attacked by the solvent in oils/enamels. If you are going to use water based/acrylics to weather then choose a lacquer/enamel clear gloss such as Testors. In either case the clear coat is also necessary before the application of decals as they need a smooth surface. Hope this helps and good luck.

MIG, AK and Ammo products can be similar, but they come from different producers, not a simple rebranding.

Which one to use is often a matter of availability... With some practice you can also make your own filters and washes using thinner (a good one) and enamels or oils.

As for the base, I have never used Model Master but from experience, Tamiya will be safe for the subsequent weathering with white spirit.

This is what I do.

Primer
Base coat
Camo
Details/tools
Future clear
Decals
Future clear
Dark wash OR Filter. (Depending what look I'm going for.)
Pin wash
Streaking
Flat clear
Pigments

I don't know how you can have a set plan without a way to recover and experiment. Yes I try to layer on clean plastic, primer, then Master Model enamels and/or acrylics as needed to get boundaries and edges (with or without colors blending). Then acrylic Future clear coat, decals, local Future clear coat on the decals only, white spirit enamel pin wash, maybe another coat of Future, enamel wash and dry pigments, lacquer flat clear coat goes last but not around the transparent parts. There is bottled brush able acrylic gloss clear and matt clear coat that can be used in small local spots on stores or figures as needed. My point is that masking, airbrushing, hand painting, and pigments don't have to follow a set formula if you create the look you are happy with. The more you experiment and try new things the more you can learn and teach me! Enjoy

If I may, there are two corrections to the above sequences:

1) WASH with detergent (very important)
2) build
3) Remove oils with isopropanol
4) primer
5) base coat
6) (camo)
7) gloss only on panels where decals go
8) decals
9) gloss over decals
10) satin finish on entire model, even coverage
11) pin wash/panel line accent (let dry)
12) (filters)
13) (oils)
14) tools
15) tracks
16) pigments and dusting

Kind of agree with amoz02t. Don't over think this, just jump in and build and take it from there one step at a time. There is no formula, painting and weathering, etc. is more art then science, and like art is in the eye of the beholder. If it looks good to you and you are happy with the result, then that's really all that matters. Build and have fun! Good luck.

Agreed. Certain steps are useful to do just in case you make a mistake, so it can be corrected easily. Example: once you've satin-coated everything, anything you mess up with enamels or oils can be cleaned off quite easily.