AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Painting with enamels
cutigerfan
Joined: February 21, 2010
KitMaker: 133 posts
Armorama: 85 posts
Posted: Monday, January 25, 2016 - 03:29 AM UTC
Alright, I need some help. I've never airbrushed with enamels and the only reasons I can come up with is (A) proper thinning and what type of thinner to use (B) the nightmare of possibly goggling my airbrush and the clean up. I've always used acrylics and never wanted to try enamels. The reason for all of this I'm working on panzer IV Ausf. D DAK Tropical and the color I want to use is in the model master enamel line of paints. Any advise?
nheather
Joined: November 12, 2007
KitMaker: 295 posts
Armorama: 204 posts
Posted: Monday, January 25, 2016 - 03:43 AM UTC
I still think enamels paint nicer than acrylics but have pretty much switched over to acrylics.
The reason is that enamels are thinned with brand specific enamel thinners, white spirit, turpentine, even cellulose thinners (acetone). But they all have one thing in common, the fumes smell and are pretty nasty.
Make sure you spray and clean your brush in a well ventilated area.
So for me, acrylics win hands down when spraying. When it comes to brush painting I still think that enamels are miles ahead.
Cheers,
Nigel
The reason is that enamels are thinned with brand specific enamel thinners, white spirit, turpentine, even cellulose thinners (acetone). But they all have one thing in common, the fumes smell and are pretty nasty.
Make sure you spray and clean your brush in a well ventilated area.
So for me, acrylics win hands down when spraying. When it comes to brush painting I still think that enamels are miles ahead.
Cheers,
Nigel
ceerosvk
Joined: November 25, 2013
KitMaker: 171 posts
Armorama: 170 posts
Posted: Monday, January 25, 2016 - 04:02 AM UTC
you can thin them with white spirit from drug store without any problem, no need to get any fancy brand thinners in my opinion. You need to thin them a lot more than acrylics though, go for a little bit thinner consistency compared to thinning acrylics. once you are finished just spray a few cups of clean white spirit to clean it out, than disassemble the airbrush and clean the parts with a tissue/cloth dipped again in the white spirit. Preferably go with more thin layers, enamels are less forgiving than acrylics. prepare that airbrushing enamels is producing really bad smell compared to acrylics, so preferably get a face protection and ventilate the room well. but yeah, as said above, go with acrylics anytime possible, enamels are only good for people using classic brushes instead of airbrush in my opinion.
tatbaqui
News Writer
#040
Joined: May 06, 2007
KitMaker: 2,713 posts
Armorama: 2,451 posts
Posted: Monday, January 25, 2016 - 04:33 AM UTC
Hello Tony,
To eliminate the worry and frustration of screwing up my paintwork I use the paint manufacturer's recommended thinner.
The consistency I aim is when the paint drips from the stirrer / mixer one drop at a time -- I'd typically start with a 50/50 mix and adjust as necessary to obtain the consistency mentioned.
I don't think enamel paints clog up an AB any different from other paint types. Put in a thickly mixed paint in any medium, and am sure you'll run into that problem. Indeed it is a pain to clean up the AB especially when it has to be taken apart, but one has to do it to get the best performance off it.
Cheers,
Tat
To eliminate the worry and frustration of screwing up my paintwork I use the paint manufacturer's recommended thinner.
The consistency I aim is when the paint drips from the stirrer / mixer one drop at a time -- I'd typically start with a 50/50 mix and adjust as necessary to obtain the consistency mentioned.
I don't think enamel paints clog up an AB any different from other paint types. Put in a thickly mixed paint in any medium, and am sure you'll run into that problem. Indeed it is a pain to clean up the AB especially when it has to be taken apart, but one has to do it to get the best performance off it.
Cheers,
Tat
cutigerfan
Joined: February 21, 2010
KitMaker: 133 posts
Armorama: 85 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 02:44 AM UTC
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to try it and see how it turns out.
Armorsmith
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 04:24 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The reason for all of this I'm working on panzer IV Ausf. D DAK Tropical and the color I want to use is in the model master enamel line of paints. Any advise?
Mix your own color using acrylics. Start with something reasonably close then lighten/darken/adjust as needed until it looks right. No need to sweat the exact color as time and the elements take their effect on paint. Once you weather etc, probably no one will be able to tell what color you used anyway. Custom mixing is not as hard as you might think. Just make sure you have enough to fix any mistakes or even redo the paint completely. Better to have way too much than not enough. Good luck.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 03:49 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThe reason for all of this I'm working on panzer IV Ausf. D DAK Tropical and the color I want to use is in the model master enamel line of paints. Any advise?
Mix your own color using acrylics. Start with something reasonably close then lighten/darken/adjust as needed until it looks right. No need to sweat the exact color as time and the elements take their effect on paint. Once you weather etc, probably no one will be able to tell what color you used anyway. Custom mixing is not as hard as you might think. Just make sure you have enough to fix any mistakes or even redo the paint completely. Better to have way too much than not enough. Good luck.
I second Armorsmith.
Removed by original poster on 01/29/16 - 02:07:51 (GMT).
cutigerfan
Joined: February 21, 2010
KitMaker: 133 posts
Armorama: 85 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 28, 2016 - 07:08 AM UTC
Interesting concept. Please tell me more.
Homer0331
Joined: March 19, 2014
KitMaker: 148 posts
Armorama: 148 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 28, 2016 - 07:40 AM UTC
For RAL 8000 I use a mix of Tamiya Dark Yellow, Flat Earth and a bit of Yellow Green. Go about 60% DY 35% FE and 5% YG. You're looking for a golden brown hue with a twinge of green.
RAL 7008 is a 50/50 mix of Tamiya Olive Drab and Khaki with a drop or two of buff to lighten it. RAL 8000 and 7008 are essentially the same tone in black and white.
RAL 8020 is Tamiya Buff, Flesh and a smattering of Flat White. You're looking for a pinkish sand color. RAL 7027 is a bit difficult, but I took the above mixture and added a drop or two of Khaki.Give that a drop of Deck Tan and spray away.
Neither of these two tropen schemes showed a lot of contrast between colors.
RAL 7008 is a 50/50 mix of Tamiya Olive Drab and Khaki with a drop or two of buff to lighten it. RAL 8000 and 7008 are essentially the same tone in black and white.
RAL 8020 is Tamiya Buff, Flesh and a smattering of Flat White. You're looking for a pinkish sand color. RAL 7027 is a bit difficult, but I took the above mixture and added a drop or two of Khaki.Give that a drop of Deck Tan and spray away.
Neither of these two tropen schemes showed a lot of contrast between colors.
cutigerfan
Joined: February 21, 2010
KitMaker: 133 posts
Armorama: 85 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 11, 2016 - 04:41 AM UTC
Just found that Vallejo makes the RAL8000 (German Green Brown 70.606) in their "Surface Primer" paints. Just looking it looks to be pretty much spot on .
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