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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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Need help with Photo Etched Part
KruppCake
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 13, 2015
KitMaker: 401 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 04:40 AM UTC
Hello all,

I am in the process of building the Meng Panzerhaubitze 2000 and am nearly complete with the construction. I ran into a little glitch today:

The front red-and-white warning plate is given as a rather thick photo etched piece of brass in the Meng kit. Even though I was using slow drying CA glue, the part stuck and it had to be removed because it went on crookedly. Upon removal, it deformed very slightly, almost just enough for the light reflection in the brass to be visible.

Is there any way to get the brass plate 100% level again, with no kinks? Would this very slight kink be visible once the part isn't very shiny and has red and white stripes?

Thanks!
Biggles2
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Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 04:52 AM UTC
Maybe a slight fender-bender in traffic?
KruppCake
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 13, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 04:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Maybe a slight fender-bender in traffic?


LOL I thought of that, so I google-imaged the PzH2000 and not a single one seemed to have a deformity in that plate. I don't want to have the only terrible PzH2000 driver, even if he is 1/35th scale
AFVFan
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
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Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 05:38 AM UTC
You might try some light burnishing on the back.
KruppCake
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 05:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You might try some light burnishing on the back.


How do you mean?
GeraldOwens
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Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 09:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hello all,

I am in the process of building the Meng Panzerhaubitze 2000 and am nearly complete with the construction. I ran into a little glitch today:

The front red-and-white warning plate is given as a rather thick photo etched piece of brass in the Meng kit. Even though I was using slow drying CA glue, the part stuck and it had to be removed because it went on crookedly. Upon removal, it deformed very slightly, almost just enough for the light reflection in the brass to be visible.

Is there any way to get the brass plate 100% level again, with no kinks? Would this very slight kink be visible once the part isn't very shiny and has red and white stripes?

Thanks!

I've had some success just clamping a part in a vise to flatten out unwanted bends (I have a small hobby vise). If the part has been stretched rather than bent, it cannot be fixed, though. Since you mention the part is thick, it probably can be flattened out. Annealing the brass can also make it more amenable to being reshaped. Just heat it above a candle flame until the metal discolors, then allow it to cool gradually (don't quench it suddenly in water, or you'll harden rather than soften it).
jwest21
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 16, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 09:45 AM UTC
what about making a replacement out of sheet styrene? That might end up being easier. When want to straighten a piece of PE out, I lay it on a smooth, hard flat surface and take the non-knife end of my X-acto and rub it on the part. Then flip it over and rub it on the other side. Don't push too hard or the PE can start to curl slightly.
KruppCake
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 13, 2015
KitMaker: 401 posts
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Posted: Thursday, January 28, 2016 - 06:21 AM UTC
I'm still at a cross-roads as to what to do about this part. A styrene part is not the best option, in my opinion, because the styrene would in any case be thicker than the PE part and I would have to rip off the PE part installed correctly on the other mudguard, risking more damage to the model.

I've held another perfectly straight piece of brass 90º to the warped part and the warp produces a gap that's probably less than a tenth of a millimeter.

Since this gap is so tiny, does anyone know whether when the piece is primed for painting, the primer can be carefully sanded down a bit to produce a perfectly smooth surface so the slight warp is 100% gone?

Or is this a bad idea? Never had a problem like this before with a a metal part.

PS: in essence, the deformity is visible due to the reflection of the light across the brass. When I hold the piece at an angle I can't actually see a deformity or a bend angle.
TopSmith
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 28, 2016 - 09:42 AM UTC
Flat clear may be an idea.
AFVFan
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 29, 2016 - 09:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

You might try some light burnishing on the back.


How do you mean?


Jason West described the process in his post, though I would only do the back side.
PantherF
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Indiana, United States
Joined: June 10, 2005
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Posted: Friday, January 29, 2016 - 10:21 PM UTC
A photo would describe it's condition better than a thousand words.

Ever thought about sanding it? I mean, if we're talking about a tiny crease... then a heavy round of sanding (like with an emery board) followed by a few passes of finer grades to smooth out the sanding marks.


Just a thought.




Jeff
KruppCake
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Friday, January 29, 2016 - 11:22 PM UTC
Jeff, what's the best way to post a photo here?
PvtMutt
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Missouri, United States
Joined: July 01, 2006
KitMaker: 614 posts
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Posted: Friday, January 29, 2016 - 11:59 PM UTC
If you need thin sheet material buy some of those plastic Yard Sale, For Sale or Beware of Dog signs you post in your yard.

You can find different thicknesses and CHEAP too.

Tony lee
PantherF
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Indiana, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 02:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Jeff, what's the best way to post a photo here?



I apologize if my reply sounded too smug. Sometimes (most of the time) I am direct and to the point.

I believe the only way to post pics here is to have a host server like a Photo Bucket account.

Tony's suggestion is good... find some scrap metal?




Jeff
KruppCake
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 05:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Jeff, what's the best way to post a photo here?



I apologize if my reply sounded too smug. Sometimes (most of the time) I am direct and to the point.

I believe the only way to post pics here is to have a host server like a Photo Bucket account.


Tony's suggestion is good... find some scrap metal?




Jeff


Hi Jeff, direct and to the point is good, it wasn't smug. I created a photobucket account. Here's what I was referring to, if you can see by the pictures. The defect is very small and it's hard to capture without a moving reflection of the light on the brass. I didn't consider sheet metal, since Meng will also send a replacement card of the PE parts. However, that takes on the order of a month to arrive. I was hoping more for a fix rather than a complete replacement.

http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/KruppCake/media/IMG_2498_zpsym0uqggq.jpg.html

http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/KruppCake/media/IMG_2500%20copy_zpsmrocbk4w.jpg.html
AFVFan
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Posted: Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 08:39 AM UTC
I honestly don't know if you'll even see that once a coat of flat paint is applied. If it is still slightly visible, why fret? Thin sheet metal on tanks get bent all the time.
KruppCake
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 13, 2015
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Posted: Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 12:44 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I honestly don't know if you'll even see that once a coat of flat paint is applied. If it is still slightly visible, why fret? Thin sheet metal on tanks get bent all the time.


Well, I have tried to find photos of where that particular part may be at all damaged or warped on the actual howitzer, but was unable to. If I can see that it may have been damaged on real vehicles, I'd more more than happy to give up my crusade of trying to get a perfectly flat piece of brass warning sign.

You might also be right about it not being visible upon painting, something I am hoping for at this point.
Increment
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: March 20, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 01:18 PM UTC
Hey KruppCake.

If you are not in a huge rush, PM me your address and I will post you a new one. My kit turned into a car crash after an accident with our cst, so PE was never used. You are very welcome to it if you want.

Chris.
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