I have been working on a set with the silver color (nickel coated?) photoetch lately, and have been suprised to find that both zap and solder don't seem to "stick" as well as with the gold (brass only?) PE.
I noticed this after I had a hard time getting a piece of silver PE to take to the zap glue, let the zap dry, then sanded it off. It revealed the brass underneath and then the glue stuck instantly and easily.
Anyone else seen this?
Armor/AFV
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Silver vs gold photoetch
communityguy
#280
Joined: May 14, 2012
KitMaker: 493 posts
Armorama: 358 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 11:44 AM UTC
gastec
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 11:58 AM UTC
Common practice with some PE - especially the old Eduard sets. Won't take solder either.
Gary
Gary
AFVFan
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 12:11 PM UTC
I hate the silver PE. It's much harder to work with and will eat up an x-acto blade in no time.
BigSplashBear
Joined: November 26, 2011
KitMaker: 25 posts
Armorama: 25 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 03:58 PM UTC
Yep - found the same thing. Got one of these http://www.micromark.com/ultra-micro-fiberglass-brush,7850.html to get off enough nickel plating to reach the brass underneath. Once achieved, CA or solder work just fine. I'm a bit old school so I prefer solder over CA glue.
Hope that assist.
Bear - out
Hope that assist.
Bear - out
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 04:09 PM UTC
Ammonia should remove the nickel plating.
seanmcandrews
Joined: May 09, 2009
KitMaker: 561 posts
Armorama: 553 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 04:36 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I noticed this after I had a hard time getting a piece of silver PE to take to the zap glue, let the zap dry, then sanded it off. It revealed the brass underneath and then the glue stuck instantly and easily.
Anyone else seen this?
Perhaps it wasn't so much removing the plating that assisted the bond but roughening the surface by sanding ?
Sean
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 05:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Ammonia should remove the nickel plating.
or acetone
KurtLaughlin
Joined: January 18, 2003
KitMaker: 2,402 posts
Armorama: 2,377 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 06:37 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextAmmonia should remove the nickel plating.
or acetone
Really? I'm surprised that a solvent would make any difference to electroplating.
KL
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 07:32 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextAmmonia should remove the nickel plating.
or acetone
Really? I'm surprised that a solvent would make any difference to electroplating.
KL
Nobody said it was electroplated.
Grauwolf
#084
Joined: September 14, 2005
KitMaker: 2,485 posts
Armorama: 743 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 07:40 PM UTC
Why would solder not stick to plated PE, it has no problem
sticking to nickel plated modelrailroad track.
Just wondering.
Cheers,
Joe
sticking to nickel plated modelrailroad track.
Just wondering.
Cheers,
Joe
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2016 - 08:53 PM UTC
I've alternatively sanded Eduard PE, or let it soak in tapwater for a week, until it starts to oxidize. Either method makes it easier to glue with CA. 
KurtLaughlin
Joined: January 18, 2003
KitMaker: 2,402 posts
Armorama: 2,377 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 06, 2016 - 03:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextQuoted TextAmmonia should remove the nickel plating.
or acetone
Really? I'm surprised that a solvent would make any difference to electroplating.
KL
Nobody said it was electroplated.
So what are you saying, that it is electroless plating? Even electroless nickel plating is immune to solvents.
KL
Vicious
Joined: September 04, 2015
KitMaker: 1,517 posts
Armorama: 1,109 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 06, 2016 - 03:42 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I've alternatively sanded Eduard PE, or let it soak in tapwater for a week, until it starts to oxidize. Either method makes it easier to glue with CA.
If you mix some Vinegar with the water make averything faster
andymacrae
Joined: September 01, 2005
KitMaker: 409 posts
Armorama: 402 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 09:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI've alternatively sanded Eduard PE, or let it soak in tapwater for a week, until it starts to oxidize. Either method makes it easier to glue with CA.
If you mix some Vinegar with the water make averything faster
Or just dunk it in neat vinegar overnight then wash thoroughly in water and let air dry. Helps paint "stick" too.
HTH
Andy
tankmodeler
#417
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
Armorama: 2,539 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 10:52 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Nobody said it was electroplated.
They didn't, but it is. (Or electroless plated as Kurt mentioned)
That's how it's applied to the brass sheet. It certainly isn't a paint or coating that a solvent should have any effect on.
Paul
bison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 10:52 PM UTC
Just sand the contact surfaces with a metal file. No need to remove all the plating.
I have done this a lot of times before most of PE sets come in pure brass.
Olivier
I have done this a lot of times before most of PE sets come in pure brass.
Olivier
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