). 
Hosted by Jacques Duquette
Tamiya SU-76M Self-Propelled Gun
Eloranta
Joined: November 30, 2008
KitMaker: 286 posts
Armorama: 195 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 19, 2016 - 05:05 PM UTC
Take few years back and I couldn't care less about this build, but now I'm following for sure (yeah, I'm bit late bloomer with russian tanks ).
). IPLawyer
Joined: March 18, 2015
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 63 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 19, 2016 - 05:50 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextSometimes the engineering cannot overcome the physical need. You probably would have to create an entire new manufacturing process to do something better.
I agree. They seem to have taken care to place them in areas that won't be seen wherever possible and/or used small pins with shallow footprints.
They are also between a rock and a hard place with respect to locating the ejector pins on a part for an open-topped assault gun such as the SU-76, because so much of the "inside" of the vehicle is visible.
I will also note that Tamiya does seem to give significant consideration as to what portions of parts are visible after assembly, because they are increasingly using sprue gates that are offset from the plane of the part and can therefore be sanded off without affecting the outward appearance of the part.
IPLawyer
Joined: March 18, 2015
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 63 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 19, 2016 - 06:02 PM UTC
Bill thank for sharing your build that I am looking forward to eventually acquiring. I'm also looking forward to seeing how you handle the painting of the subassemblies since both the interior and almost the entire gun are visible on this model
Also, may i say that you have one of the most elegant work benches I have ever seen: pure white, a varnished wood pedestal (!) on which to lean or support parts and not a paint or glue stain in sight. You put my multi-stained cutting mat and spare paint bottle pedestals to shame.
Also, may i say that you have one of the most elegant work benches I have ever seen: pure white, a varnished wood pedestal (!) on which to lean or support parts and not a paint or glue stain in sight. You put my multi-stained cutting mat and spare paint bottle pedestals to shame.
acebatau
Joined: February 10, 2008
KitMaker: 730 posts
Armorama: 616 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 19, 2016 - 08:40 PM UTC
Nice progress, following with great interest
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 19, 2016 - 09:30 PM UTC
Thanks Robert, Paul, Tomi, and Batsaikhan! Glad to have you along. 
Mark, you're right about some of the challenges, particularly in regards to parts that have both sides visible to varying degrees. For the fighting compartment components, none of those are on external surfaces and that's a good thing.
As for the workbench, what you see on the photos isn't the bench at all but a separate photo booth setup I have for taking pics. The bench itself is definitely a study in organized chaos!
Mark, you're right about some of the challenges, particularly in regards to parts that have both sides visible to varying degrees. For the fighting compartment components, none of those are on external surfaces and that's a good thing.
As for the workbench, what you see on the photos isn't the bench at all but a separate photo booth setup I have for taking pics. The bench itself is definitely a study in organized chaos!
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 03:34 AM UTC
Continuing on with the fighting compartment stuff, I assembled the three sub-machine ammo racks and the radio equipment as called for in Step 7. These will get installed separately after I've had a chance to paint them, two of the racks go on the right side along with the radio and the third one goes on the left side.
Step 8 addresses the right side of the compartment and I removed the ejector marks that would be visible and left the others alone. All of the little details that would be the same hull color were installed to get it squared away.
Step 9 installs the radio and ammo racks, so this was temporarily skipped. Step 10 gives the detail treatment to the left side. Same drill regarding ejector marks here too!
The back plate received some more attention as I decided to go ahead and install its door in the closed position. This isn't called out until the very final step 37 that also addresses the figures...I'm not sure if you need to have the door open in order for one of the crewmen to fit correctly, it's hard to be sure. The instruction diagram's top-down view of how they sit doesn't seem to indicate this would be a problem, but I'm not planning on placing the figures myself so it's not a big deal for me but could be for others. I also added the tow hook components from Step 16 as I wanted to see how much of the opening there would be filled by the hook. Turns out it doesn't completely fill up the space, so I puttied over it to make it seamless with the rest of the interior plate.
For good measure, I also got the triangular plates that attach to the tops of the fighting compartment ready for paint. These are covered in Step 34. I drilled out the eyepiece face and also drilled an actual hole in the top portion of the pipe periscope. The part has a molded dimple here, I used a #78 micro drill bit to up the detail a touch.
So here's where all the interior parts of the fighting compartment are at before I start in on getting them painted and detailed.
Step 8 addresses the right side of the compartment and I removed the ejector marks that would be visible and left the others alone. All of the little details that would be the same hull color were installed to get it squared away.
Step 9 installs the radio and ammo racks, so this was temporarily skipped. Step 10 gives the detail treatment to the left side. Same drill regarding ejector marks here too!
The back plate received some more attention as I decided to go ahead and install its door in the closed position. This isn't called out until the very final step 37 that also addresses the figures...I'm not sure if you need to have the door open in order for one of the crewmen to fit correctly, it's hard to be sure. The instruction diagram's top-down view of how they sit doesn't seem to indicate this would be a problem, but I'm not planning on placing the figures myself so it's not a big deal for me but could be for others. I also added the tow hook components from Step 16 as I wanted to see how much of the opening there would be filled by the hook. Turns out it doesn't completely fill up the space, so I puttied over it to make it seamless with the rest of the interior plate.
For good measure, I also got the triangular plates that attach to the tops of the fighting compartment ready for paint. These are covered in Step 34. I drilled out the eyepiece face and also drilled an actual hole in the top portion of the pipe periscope. The part has a molded dimple here, I used a #78 micro drill bit to up the detail a touch.
So here's where all the interior parts of the fighting compartment are at before I start in on getting them painted and detailed.
IPLawyer
Joined: March 18, 2015
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 63 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 04:05 AM UTC
From this picture from the announcement thread back in November 2015 for the SU-76, it looks like all three figures would fit with the doors opened or closed (just click on the image showing the figures):
https://twitter.com/heygoro384/status/667853456909045760
https://twitter.com/heygoro384/status/667853456909045760
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 04:26 AM UTC
Makes sense to me Mark, that matches up well with the instructions.
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Monday, March 21, 2016 - 02:25 AM UTC
Managed to get some airbrush work in on the interior. I started with a base coat of Testors Model Master enamel Russian Armor Green. This did double-duty as a primer coat and let me check all my sanding to see if everything was going in the right direction.
I've never been quite happy with this particular color right out of the bottle, it's got a kind of 'minty' green hint to it, so I tried something a little different. I mixed up a custom color using a 50/50 ratio of the MM enamel Russian Armor Green and Olive Drab FS34087. This was sprayed at low pressure over the previous coat to build up the finish. As an unintended side effect, I think I might have come up with a pretty close match to the kit's original plastic color. It's also hard to photograph it accurately, but in hand it came out along the lines I was after.
Now to let that cure a little bit and then start in on the actual detailing and weathering of the interior so I can get it all together.
I've never been quite happy with this particular color right out of the bottle, it's got a kind of 'minty' green hint to it, so I tried something a little different. I mixed up a custom color using a 50/50 ratio of the MM enamel Russian Armor Green and Olive Drab FS34087. This was sprayed at low pressure over the previous coat to build up the finish. As an unintended side effect, I think I might have come up with a pretty close match to the kit's original plastic color.
It's also hard to photograph it accurately, but in hand it came out along the lines I was after.Now to let that cure a little bit and then start in on the actual detailing and weathering of the interior so I can get it all together.
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Monday, March 21, 2016 - 03:01 AM UTC
Bill-- another great job! Superb color mixing-- how many psi do you use? What adhesive are you applying?
thanks
DJ
thanks
DJ
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Monday, March 21, 2016 - 04:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Bill-- another great job! Superb color mixing-- how many psi do you use? What adhesive are you applying?
thanks
DJ
Thanks DJ! I sprayed the first coat at around 25 PSI and then added the 2nd custom color at around 15 PSI. Not sure what you mean by adhesive? I'm using enamel paints for this unless otherwise noted.
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 03:32 AM UTC
First important detail for the interior is the ammo racks, so today's efforts were split between Steps 4 and 12 in the instructions. The kit provides 10 AP rounds and 10 HE rounds that are designed to go in the racks proper and an additional 4 AP and 4 HE 'whole' rounds that don't have the clips molded on them and have the full casing base. At first, I thought this was kind of strange as the racks have 11 empty spaces leaving one space totally unaccounted for. Why so many empty spaces? After studying the layout of the crew figures in the Step 37 diagram, I think I know why. If the racks were fully loaded up, the loader figure doesn't have enough room for sure and there might also be a conflict with the commander figure on the other side. It's a cramped space and figures aren't flexible, so I suppose it was a necessary compromise on Tamiya's part. It also explains the missing clips as the figures would fill up that space. If you don't use the figures, that's a different story!
Anyhow, I cleaned up all 20 of the rounds I needed to go into the racks and then hand painted them. I used MM Non-buffing metalizer Brass for the casings, non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal for the AP rounds, enamel Italian Olive Green for the HE rounds, and non-buffing metalizer Steel for the HE fuse caps.
The back row of rounds went into the racks first, then the support rack for the front row added and painted to match the rest of the rack. Last but not least, the partial front row loads were added to get the racks together.
Still plenty left to do with the interior!
Anyhow, I cleaned up all 20 of the rounds I needed to go into the racks and then hand painted them. I used MM Non-buffing metalizer Brass for the casings, non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal for the AP rounds, enamel Italian Olive Green for the HE rounds, and non-buffing metalizer Steel for the HE fuse caps.
The back row of rounds went into the racks first, then the support rack for the front row added and painted to match the rest of the rack. Last but not least, the partial front row loads were added to get the racks together.
Still plenty left to do with the interior!
Tojo72
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 03:56 AM UTC
Lotta work on those details Bill,looks good.
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 04:26 AM UTC
Thanks Anthony, it's one of the neat things about open-top SPGs like this...but it does also increase the time needed to deal with them.
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 02:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextBill-- another great job! Superb color mixing-- how many psi do you use? What adhesive are you applying?
thanks
DJ
Thanks DJ! I sprayed the first coat at around 25 PSI and then added the 2nd custom color at around 15 PSI. Not sure what you mean by adhesive? I'm using enamel paints for this unless otherwise noted.
Bill-- reference my "adhesive" comment---- what type glue do you use?
thanks
DJ
easyco69
Joined: November 03, 2012
KitMaker: 2,275 posts
Armorama: 2,233 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 02:57 AM UTC
That's what I like, a reviewer who does "what's expected of him as a reviewer", to actually build the kit. Not like others who just open the box & take pictures of the sprues & parts. People want detailed reviews which means..building the kit, how will you ever know if there's fit issues if ya don't put it together. Same goes for the decals..how do you know they aren't bad ones if you don't apply them??
Heck, I will take their job & build it if they don't wanna.
PS- I want this kit..looks like it goes together nicely.
Heck, I will take their job & build it if they don't wanna.
PS- I want this kit..looks like it goes together nicely.
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 03:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextBill-- another great job! Superb color mixing-- how many psi do you use? What adhesive are you applying?
thanks
DJ
Thanks DJ! I sprayed the first coat at around 25 PSI and then added the 2nd custom color at around 15 PSI. Not sure what you mean by adhesive? I'm using enamel paints for this unless otherwise noted.
Bill-- reference my "adhesive" comment---- what type glue do you use?
thanks
DJ
Aha!
I normally use the Testors Liquid Glue (glass bottle w/ brush) but I don't normally use the large brush it comes with attached to the bottle cap for applications. Instead, I use a smaller brush that offers more control. For things where liquid glue doesn't do the job, I will use the thicker Testors 'black bottle' glue. HTH! wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 03:06 AM UTC
Quoted Text
That's what I like, a reviewer who does "what's expected of him as a reviewer", to actually build the kit. Not like others who just open the box & take pictures of the sprues & parts. People want detailed reviews which means..building the kit, how will you ever know if there's fit issues if ya don't put it together. Same goes for the decals..how do you know they aren't bad ones if you don't apply them??
Heck, I will take their job & build it if they don't wanna.
PS- I want this kit..looks like it goes together nicely.
I agree in a perfect world build reviews are always the better option, but there's the issue of the time needed to build the kit vs. getting information out to people, so inbox reviews are often a compromise that at least lets you know what's there before you buy. An alternative would be for people to just build up the kit and not finish and paint it at all...but that, for me at least, takes half the fun out of the build in the first place.
So far this one hasn't presented any major problems. I hope that holds as it moves along!
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 05:24 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Danke, danke! Quoted TextQuoted TextQuoted TextBill-- another great job! Superb color mixing-- how many psi do you use? What adhesive are you applying?
thanks
DJ
Thanks DJ! I sprayed the first coat at around 25 PSI and then added the 2nd custom color at around 15 PSI. Not sure what you mean by adhesive? I'm using enamel paints for this unless otherwise noted.
Bill-- reference my "adhesive" comment---- what type glue do you use?
thanks
DJ
Aha!
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 06:28 AM UTC
More fun with the interior over the past couple of days. Next up I spent some time on the rear plate. The color call-out in the instructions is for Tamiya's XF-49 Khaki, so I set about replicating that as best I could using a combination of a base color of 50/50 MM enamel Light Gray/Afrika Grunbraun followed by a wash of Ammo's Interior's Wash (because it has a kind of greenish tint to it) and dry-brushing some of the 50/50 Russian Armor Green/Olive Drab combo. Then a pin wash of Ammo's Africa Korps Wash to add some depth and it was about where I wanted it. Given the whole reason for the upholstered padding as a way to keep the crew from banging their elbows/knees, etc. on the armor plating in the tight space, I doubt it stayed 'new car' looking for long.
Side panels got some attention next, starting on the right side. On all of the panels and compartment areas, I added some scuffing/wear in the form of some dry-brushed MM enamel Deep Yellow followed by a 2nd round of dry-brushed 80/20 Olive Drab/Russian Armor Green to vary the tones a bit. The radio was detailed by hand along with the PPSH submachine gun. The gun's barrel is molded solid, so I drilled it out with a #76 micro drill. The drum magazines were picked out with MM non-buffing Metalizer gunmetal. Last but not least, I picked out the compartment's night light with Tamiya Clear Red.
Rinse and repeat for the left side!
For the compartment's floor, I detailed the rubber kneeling mat for the gunner with MM enamel Gunmetal. I went heavier in the wear here for obvious reasons and used multiple layers. First some Deep Yellow was stippled and dry-brushed, followed by stippled and dry-brushed enamel Burnt Umber. Then the 50/50 OD/Russian Green was dry-brushed and a final overall wash of Ammo Interior Wash to round it out.
The right side lower wall got some attention as well with the installation of the commander's jump seat and the two ammo racks. I still need to detail and add in the rest of the radio's power supply equipment, I ran out of time today before I could get to it. The left side of the compartment got the large rack installed as well to call it a day.
Still a few small things to do in the compartment but it's just about ready to get it all together.
Side panels got some attention next, starting on the right side. On all of the panels and compartment areas, I added some scuffing/wear in the form of some dry-brushed MM enamel Deep Yellow followed by a 2nd round of dry-brushed 80/20 Olive Drab/Russian Armor Green to vary the tones a bit. The radio was detailed by hand along with the PPSH submachine gun. The gun's barrel is molded solid, so I drilled it out with a #76 micro drill. The drum magazines were picked out with MM non-buffing Metalizer gunmetal. Last but not least, I picked out the compartment's night light with Tamiya Clear Red.
Rinse and repeat for the left side!
For the compartment's floor, I detailed the rubber kneeling mat for the gunner with MM enamel Gunmetal. I went heavier in the wear here for obvious reasons and used multiple layers. First some Deep Yellow was stippled and dry-brushed, followed by stippled and dry-brushed enamel Burnt Umber. Then the 50/50 OD/Russian Green was dry-brushed and a final overall wash of Ammo Interior Wash to round it out.
The right side lower wall got some attention as well with the installation of the commander's jump seat and the two ammo racks. I still need to detail and add in the rest of the radio's power supply equipment, I ran out of time today before I could get to it.
The left side of the compartment got the large rack installed as well to call it a day. Still a few small things to do in the compartment but it's just about ready to get it all together.
Modelrob
Joined: October 20, 2015
KitMaker: 304 posts
Armorama: 293 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 03:52 PM UTC
The interior is coming along great. Some very nice weathering being done.
Robert
Robert
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 09:20 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The interior is coming along great. Some very nice weathering being done.
Robert
Thanks Robert!
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Friday, March 25, 2016 - 05:37 AM UTC
Achieved a major milestone in the build today in terms of getting the fighting compartment all together. First order of business, I decided it would be easier to paint the exterior of the compartment plates before installation. This meant adding some of the exterior details like the crew step called out in Step 18 and the radio antenna and pot called out in Step 21. Both of those parts have recessed mount points and a little bit of putty help was needed in some spots to fill those in completely before painting.
The plates and the front of the compartment were airbrushed first with Russian Armor Green and followed up with the 50/50 OD/Russian Armor Green treatment that I used on the interior.
I installed the rest of the communications equipment on the right side and added the large wall component into the compartment proper. While I still had the compartment open, I added some pigment weathering in the form of Mig Rubble Dust applied to the floor.
Right side upper plate was added next along with the large top plate that includes the commander's periscopes. It has the added advantage of a larger attachment area due to the radiator box that attaches to the outside, so it was the easiest to get lined up with the front of the compartment.
For the left side, I used regular glue along the base edge since it has the most contact surface and liquid glue at the front once it had grabbed a bit. As you can see in the photos, the greens don't all match up perfectly just yet, that will change once it's all set and I have the opportunity to go back over the join areas with the airbrush. My main concern at this point was avoiding having to do a lot of work with the full compartment masked off.
Last but not least, the rear plate was added to complete the full compartment. Overall the fit was excellent. One small minor area on the left rear plate join needed just a touch of putty and sanding, otherwise it all went together perfectly.
Next up will be spending some time on the suspension components and various other external details.
The plates and the front of the compartment were airbrushed first with Russian Armor Green and followed up with the 50/50 OD/Russian Armor Green treatment that I used on the interior.
I installed the rest of the communications equipment on the right side and added the large wall component into the compartment proper. While I still had the compartment open, I added some pigment weathering in the form of Mig Rubble Dust applied to the floor.
Right side upper plate was added next along with the large top plate that includes the commander's periscopes. It has the added advantage of a larger attachment area due to the radiator box that attaches to the outside, so it was the easiest to get lined up with the front of the compartment.
For the left side, I used regular glue along the base edge since it has the most contact surface and liquid glue at the front once it had grabbed a bit. As you can see in the photos, the greens don't all match up perfectly just yet, that will change once it's all set and I have the opportunity to go back over the join areas with the airbrush. My main concern at this point was avoiding having to do a lot of work with the full compartment masked off.
Last but not least, the rear plate was added to complete the full compartment. Overall the fit was excellent. One small minor area on the left rear plate join needed just a touch of putty and sanding, otherwise it all went together perfectly.
Next up will be spending some time on the suspension components and various other external details.
wbill76
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 03:25 AM UTC
As promised, today's efforts focused on getting the suspension components installed and ready for painting. To do this, I had to go back to Step 3 and add the final drive housings along with their polycaps. I also cleaned up the 6 return rollers since they are called out in the same step, more on them later. Continuing on, Steps 13 and 15 have the 4 bump stops, two per side. That brings us to the main attraction, Step 16, which installs all swing arms and the idler mounts. Tamiya designed the swing arms to be fixed and level with each other using a small mount pin that the arms attach to. This, of course, is also designed to support their link-and-length track arrangement covered in Steps 19-20.
While I was poking around in the steps, I went ahead and added in the driver's hatch and periscope in the closed position. The kit parts have detail on the lower part of the periscope but nothing on the inside face of the hatch or the driver's area.
Road wheels were next under Step 17. There are 14 wheels (6 road, 1 idler per side) that have to be removed from the sprue along with a matching 14 rear hub inserts to make the full wheels. I used a sanding stick to remove the mold seam on the rubber portion of the wheels. Each of the hub inserts has 2 sprue attachment points that have to be carefully removed to keep their round shape intact, easily done with a sharp #11 blade and a little patience.
A touch of liquid glue around the rim edges got the wheels together and I also assembled the sprockets as called for in the same step. The steel return rollers from Step 3 also had a small mold seam that was sanded down to get them cleaned up.
After the glue had dried on the sprockets and wheels, I did a quick test fit to make sure everything sits level and plays nice with each other. As you can see, the road wheels cover almost the whole lower hull area below the fenders. These will be painted separately to allow for easier detailing and weathering before the tracks and fenders have to go on.
Next up will be dealing with some more of the hull details and getting the fenders together so I can maximize the airbrush time for the next round of painting.
While I was poking around in the steps, I went ahead and added in the driver's hatch and periscope in the closed position. The kit parts have detail on the lower part of the periscope but nothing on the inside face of the hatch or the driver's area.
Road wheels were next under Step 17. There are 14 wheels (6 road, 1 idler per side) that have to be removed from the sprue along with a matching 14 rear hub inserts to make the full wheels. I used a sanding stick to remove the mold seam on the rubber portion of the wheels. Each of the hub inserts has 2 sprue attachment points that have to be carefully removed to keep their round shape intact, easily done with a sharp #11 blade and a little patience.
A touch of liquid glue around the rim edges got the wheels together and I also assembled the sprockets as called for in the same step. The steel return rollers from Step 3 also had a small mold seam that was sanded down to get them cleaned up.
After the glue had dried on the sprockets and wheels, I did a quick test fit to make sure everything sits level and plays nice with each other. As you can see, the road wheels cover almost the whole lower hull area below the fenders. These will be painted separately to allow for easier detailing and weathering before the tracks and fenders have to go on.
Next up will be dealing with some more of the hull details and getting the fenders together so I can maximize the airbrush time for the next round of painting.
Me109G
Joined: December 12, 2007
KitMaker: 170 posts
Armorama: 138 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 05:22 PM UTC
I just ordered mine yesterday. Can't wait t get my hands on it!! It's a cool subject and the fact that it's a new Tamiya makes it even better!! The best part, there's a crew!! It's frustrating these days because so many armor kits don't come with at least one figure. Tamiya has always been good about supplying there kits with one crewman at least!! This should be a fun build!!
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