I know this isn't really the proper place to post, but the other forums really don't receive a whole lot of traffic.

So I made some decals for a M2 Bradley that I'm trying to finish up, but am running into a major issue. After I put the decal on a model, been test models so far, I run a q-tip over it to get rid of excess water and it starts to pull the ink off the decal, same issue when I use my finger. Another issue I'm seeing is that when I put decal solution over it it wrinkles like normal, but parts stay wrinkled after it dries. Never had this problem before

What I've been using is Krylon crystal clear for the bonding agent, testors decal paper, hp 2546 ink jet printer, and walthers solvaset.

Hi Seth,

Krylon crystal clear may not be suitable as a sealant, Testors
makes a dedicated sealant for their decal paper.

I use both Testors products,paper and sealant, with no issues.

I use the Microscale Liquid Decal Film to seal home printed decals, and have never had an issue. I also use Microscale film, and again never had an issue.

Thanks for the help guys. For sake of money I'll give the testors bonding agent a go first, and if that doesn't work I'll give the the micro scale products a shot.

I second the motion about Microscale Liquid Decal Film, excellent product for this type of job.

Cheers,

Christophe

Sounds good to me, I'll start looking into their products. I've been thinking about upgrading to a different paper to be honest. Are there any stores I can get their stuff? Closest hobby store is about 2 hrs from me.

So how exactly do I use the decal film?

Seth,
Also, Wather's Solvaset is the most potent, agressive setting solution on the market. I'm surprised it doesn't just shatter or melt your decals. Use Microscale Micro-Set and Micro-Sol.

You're going to internet order everything anyway. Just Google Microscale and find a store that carries everything, then order.

I've never really had too many issues with the solvaset, but I still have a bottle of micro set. Just need to order decal film.

So from what it sounds like I just brush the liquid decal film onto the decal, let it dry, then put it in water?

Seth,
I custom make many of my decals. What you are describing happening with the printer ink is a common occurrence with bubble jet printers and decal paper. You can overcome the ink loss issue by clear coating the decal paper with Testors Dullcoat before you print the decal. This gives the printer ink something to "grab" rather than slick decal paper. I prefer mixing my Dullcoat with 50-50 Testors airbrush thinner, but I've also used it straight out of the rattle can, or decanted through the airbrush. Let it dry for a couple of hours, then run the decal paper through the printer to print the decal as normal. It won't hurt the printer at all. After waiting another hour, re-coat the printed decal with another light mist of Dullcoat. this ensures the ink stays on the paper. I prefer Microscale decal paper, as Testors is a bit thick for me. I almost exclusively use Solvaset for all my decals, you just need to be patient, sometimes sparingly re-applying with Solvaset many times to get the film to conform to the finish. Another recommendation-- I suggest you pick up a bottle of Microscale decal solution-- this is used to make decal film, it works wonders on all decals to keep them from disolving/splitting. I also use this over printed inks to seal the decal in, but I spray it through my airbrush, I don't brush it in, as it will sometimes dissolve printer ink if applied to thickly. By the way-- in another life when I used to work in a hobby shop, we used to sell the Testors spay on decal film-- I'd avoid it, it's too hard to control out of the can, and has a tendency to attack some printer inks.
VR, Russ

Awesome, thanks for the tips. I'm definately going to try spraying dull coat on the decal paper first

Matt,
Mr. Mark Softener runs rings around solvaset. It's the court of last resort and eats fragile decals alive.
Regards,
Georg