This build log will present a German (ISAF) Panzerhaubitze 2000 vehicle with Afghanistan markings. This is officially my very first build log and any feedback with regards to the build or content posting is very welcome!
Kit: Meng Panzerhaubitze 2000 with add-on armor (TS-019)
Materials: Vallejo, Tamiya, and ModelMaster acrylics, Vallejo satin and gloss varnishes, Mig washes, filters, and pigments, Tamiya cement, slow-drying cyanoacrylate glue
Air brush: Iwata HP-CS
Acknowledgements: I would like to sincerely thank Chris (Increment) for very generously donating an additional set of PE parts for this kit as I had accidentally ruined the front red-and-white warning plate initially. I would also like to thank Paul (Paulinsibculo) for very detailed discussions on actual vehicle parts as well as for providing reference photos.
The model assembly is very straightforward in this case and the fit is almost 100% perfect. I added sticky tack to areas where the add-on armor is to be glued to the model after priming and painting. I find it's a lot less messy to glue plastic to plastic, without any paint or primer in-between. Thus, the add-on armor was painted separately using Tamiya Nato Black. Tools and wheels were primed as well and the wheels painted using a home-made stencil produced with a compass cutter. The only things added to the kit that is not included in the box, thus far, are the storage box harnesses, made from scraps of PE frets, and barrel sensor wires, made from Friul track wires.
The model was primed, somewhat unfortunately, with Vallejo sand colored primer. It was then base-coated with Vallejo ivory sand (I highly advise against this combination of primer/color, for obvious reasons). The green camouflage is a mix of Vallejo Russian green and ivory sand. The camouflage was airbrushed free-hand, so as to give the edges a very slightly feathered look, corresponding to how the vehicle would have been painted in reality.
The wheels and hedgehog armor are mounted onto the vehicle. To this point, the upper and lower hulls have not yet been glued together, for ease of track assembly. The tracks are assembled (about 3-4 hours of work, with clean-up), primed with Tamiya white primer, and base-coated with Vallejo rust.
Vallejo gloss varnish is diluted with water and applied, via airbrush, only to areas where the decals will be set. I personally find that, even with more than 24 hours of drying time, Vallejo gloss varnish still slightly dissolves with the water needed to move and set the decals, highly complicating matters. I'd recommend using the ModelMaster gloss spray can varnish instead for this purpose. Once the decals are set, the entire model is generously coated with Vallejo satin varnish, diluted with water. I find that this envelopes it in a thin, but rock-solid shell, protecting it both from scratches and harsh solvents that will be used in the weathering stages.
The rubber pads on the tracks were hand-painted using Vallejo Nato black (Model Air). I was hoping to be able to devise a home-made stencil in order to be able to airbrush the entire rubber pads, however, this proved to be impossible, so I decided to hand paint them. After the tracks were painted with rust and the pads with Nato black, they were coated generously with satin varnish as well for protection. The muzzle break is painted with Tamiya flat black and the top portion is subtly highlighted with Nato black. The distinction is difficult to see in the photos but will be slightly more apparent after further oils and weathering.
A pin wash (Or as some prefer, a panel accent wash) is then applied to the panel and weld lines. Mig dark brown wash (enamel) is used with a thin brush, and any excess wash that pools is cleaned with a soft, wide brush wetted with artist's mineral spirit. I find the mineral spirit to be rather gentle towards most paints and even soaking an acrylics layer with it will not do damage unless you leave a puddle for a longer period of time (more than a few minutes). Using a soft, round brush, the Mig dark brown wash is also applied evenly on the tracks, slightly darkening the appearance of the rust color and accentuating some of the nooks and crannies on the tracks. The wheels are not yet complete, in terms of wash and weathering.
At this stage, the periscopes, windows, and cautionary lights, and rear lights are all airbrushed clear blue, clear orange, and clear red, respectively, while still on the sprue. They are then added to the vehicle once the pin wash is done. In the case of the periscopes (driver's hatch), they are entirely airbrushed clear blue. The part that is to remain clear is then carefully and precisely masked with sticky tack, and the rest of the periscope is airbrushed with Nato black.
Parts that are to permanently remain clear, such as the front headlights, are fixed to the lamp using Vallejo gloss varnish, sparingly applied around the edges with a fine paint brush. The backdrop of the lamp is painted with Tamiya chrome.
Side Note: to be able to rotate the turret with ease, the guides which keep it in the hull need to be filed down at least half way.
