I build kits and put them on a simple well finished wooden base. I then put a thin layer of what ever I think will hold to the base so I can add some minor diorama elements like sand, mud or a road. I haven't found something that holds well. My thin layer soon starts to separate from the base along the edges and looks bad. I even tried with unfinished wood but the base warped. I usually go to Michaels and get a base. I sand it with 600 grit and then stain it with minwax. I then use clear marine grade spar varnish. I sand that and apply a second coat. I then apply my soil layer. I have tried the old Celluclay, wood glue mixed with sand, etc... I do not want a thick layer, no more than 1/8th inch at most.

Any advice from the fantastic builders I see here?

Thanks!

Hey Greg, you could try putting down a thin first layer of Milliput or a similar two part epoxy as a base. You should be able to add any of your normal groundwork directly over that ....

cheers
Brent

HI Greg,
Although I've never done it myself, I've seen this done a number of times in various magazines/books/websites, and that is to 'score' your wooden base first with a knife or blade. So that when you come to put down your plaster or material, it has something to 'eat in to', and that should help. Maybe by spreading white glue, or what Brent suggested over too, after scoring, would really give you a tight bond....?
Good luck...

Simon.

Hi Greg- I think what Brent and Simon have said is very useful. I just want to add that you could use DAS Modeling Clay too- this will roll out very thin- particularly if you use something like a rolling pin. What I would do to fix it down on a wooden base is to first rough it up like Simon said by scoring it with a sharp knife. Then spread a good thick layer of PVA. Next get the modeling clay- its probably best to have a nice thin layer of it ready to go. Press that down onto the base and then, if you have a particular shape you want to make the edges- just go round the clay lightly with a knife and wipe the excess glue away. Leave it to dry overnight and it should go rock hard. The clay can also be roughed up by plucking at it with a toothbrush to create rough ground. But you can add pretty much anything to the clay, either while its wet, or when its dry. PVA will help fix pretty much anything to the clay.

Hello,

to add something to Simons (absolute correct) statement:

you can use a broader drill (depending on the size of your base) and drill some small craters into the wood, just 1 or 2mm deep. If you then apply a first layer of a putty, which is to be used without water (Miliput, etc...) you should get a base layer which will hold on to the base. If everything fails use some styrofoam and glue it onto the base with two part epoxy glue. I have never encountered anything this stuff could not secure.

Best Regards

Dennis

You already have a nice glossy finish now rough the area up with sand paper and score it with a knife this should be enough to give grip to the ground work.

I've drilled holes through the wood base - 1/4" holes will do - to prevent edge lifting. Drill around the perimeter of the base and a few in the interior, this will help anchor the celluclay. I also save some celluclay mix in the event I do have some edge lift. I just plug the gaps with it. Another solution is to make most of your basework from styrofoam, and just apply a thin layer of celluclay on top of that. That will also help prevent warping the wood base.

A very thin sheet of foam would also adhere to the wood (with super 77) and then whatever you have been using. It comes in all sorts of thickness at your local home improvement store.

Greg, I use wall spackle mixed with some brown dye and peat moss thrown in for some texture. If I want some contour to the base I first glue down some styrofoam with white glue. Before I put down the spackle mix I paint on a layer of white glue on the base. This helps keep down the moisture so the base won't warp and also helps the spackle stick to the base.

The base usually dries overnight and then you can paint and add whatever foliage you want. If you want rocks or any other stuff you can just stick them in the spackle when it's wet.

Place some nails in the wood top prior to applying the last cote of varnish, this will give whatever base material you use something positive to grip and the varnish will prevent the metal of the nails being effected by the material used.

Greg,
All the suggestions above are good ones, let me add three more-- 1) You can buy unfinished wood frames at Michael's or Hobby Lobby (or finished ones for that matter), replace the cardboard insert backing with thin plywood from Home Depot or Lowe's, lay a thin layer of porous styrofoam (the green kind sold at Hobby Lobby or Michael's) over the plywood and coat it with your ground cover of choice, either Durham's Water Putty or Spackle. 2) You can buy craft plywood at either Lowe's or Home Depot, cut it to form a small box (they'll cut it for you if you have the measurements) and use thicker styrofoam or extruded foam insulation board inside the box, then coat it with your ground cover of choice. This gives you more depth if needed. 3) lastly, and I don't recommend this for all applications, but it will work for some-- you can buy small project aerosol foam used for wall and window insulation, tape off the edges of your base, and spread it with a disposable plastic spoon-- this is a messy process, but it works well with some practice, and provides a base that cannot peel or warp. Using styrofoam for your bases allows you to shape it into whatever terrain you need (its simple to form with a rasp or knife) and ensures proper adhesion of the ground cover materials without the peeling and warping you mention.
VR, Russ

Hi Greg - great subject! Lots of interesting tips - I've been trying a relatively new method, using various acrylic pumice gels for the ground plane (fine and coarse). You can find these at art stores in little buckets).

If there's no topo to speak of I first apply the "fine" acrylic pumice with a small art trowel over the base surface - thin plywood etc. Next, apply the coarse gel where I want some relief (little gully, trench etc), then (once the gels are dry!) glue down a few scale rocks (just glue them) and finally if I really want texture will add some crushed rock (model railroad track ballast) and glue down with a blend of water and white glue. Ok - I guess this sounds like a lot of work, but not really.

Then I paint (airbrush) the whole thing with Vallejo IDF tan primer. Finally go back with lighter and darker colors to get highlights or shadows etc. The results are good and there's no peeling or lifting.

If I want to show some topo, I use thin layers of carved rigid insulating foam glued together - the type used for insulation. Before following the steps above, I trowel on and work in some lightweight spackle - the lightweight is indeed very light, easy to work and not messy!

When said and done, this looks pretty good - you can add more and more if needed - that just depends on the look you are after.

Whew! Ok, a coffee infused response! Hope it helps

Nick

Being how Spar Varnish is made to keep liquids away from wood surfaces, my first suggestion would be not to put the Varnish where you plan on putting your groundwork. Darren's suggestion of nails or small screws works as well.

Hey Greg, I don't have problems with lift off. 1st, rough up your base to give a good grip. I always use Aleens thick tacky glue. Spread a thin layer and add what they call baby sand. sprinkle it where you want a dirt base, let dry and turn over for the loose sand to fall off. The glue dries cristal clear and can be picked off if you have a bit too much when dry. And a real nice thing is it is paintable. The sand can be used for dirt or sandy areas . All I do is dio's and find ths works great. You can use it with styrofoam to build up your terrain also. Most times I cover my terrain with regular plaster of Parris. Add some white glue, your paint and a bit of liquid dish soap (helps with the spreading of your mix) and water. The reason for adding the paint is if you chip a bit of plaster it will not show up white, retains your basic color. Then I add the baby sand to the moist plaster and gentaly press it into the plaster. Add any rocks or tree limbs that have settled and your good to go. The covered base can be cut to add upright trees or poles ect. Hope this helps you.

One more thing is to use 3m spray adhesive in small areas or the entire area then add whatever toppings. this will not give a thick top or a heavy coat.

I've never liked Celluclay, as it tends to shrink and lift as it dries (and if you live in the subtropics, it can even become inhabited by weevils). But Durham's Water Putty, a plasticized spackling compound sold in hardware stores, is tenacious. It comes as a dry powder, and you mix it with water to the consistency of pancake batter. Spread it on your base, then apply dry Durham's from the can so it soaks up the excess water. It will form a natural gritty texture. It is already a tan color, and can be painted after it dries, or it can be colored using pigment or water based-paint while it is wet.

I want to say thank you for your many suggestions. I will try several of these out. I usually want the soil layer just deep enough to show tread tracks. You have prompted me to explore a more dinamic terrain.