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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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Pin wash color for German tri-tonal
MattEa
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: April 14, 2016
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2016 - 11:05 AM UTC
As the title suggests, I am looking for what color would be best of my pin washed on a german tri-tonal camo. Should I used a different color based on if the feature lies on a yellow, green, or red brown patch?
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2016 - 11:38 AM UTC
Most pin washes are black. For those wanting less darkness, the usual alternative is brown.

the pin wash is to highlight panel lines, weld seams and such. It would look weird if you used a different color for each camo color.

Tojo72
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2016 - 03:54 PM UTC
Burnt Umber
MattEa
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2016 - 08:02 PM UTC
Thank you for the quick replies. I figured it would look strange but wasn't sure, I will go with the burnt umber.
varanusk
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ARMORAMA
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Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Spain / España
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2016 - 09:24 PM UTC
I tend to avoid pure black, burnt umber is a good choice. Depending on the base you may need to darken it.
gaborka
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Borsod-Abauj-Zemblen, Hungary
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2016 - 11:21 PM UTC
I seldom use pure black as it is too harsh. I normally mix Van Dyck Brown or Kassel Earth with a little Payne's Gray for pinwashes. It can be used for all camo tones.
MattEa
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2016 - 11:56 PM UTC
Thank you for all the tips! I have future on right now, I understand that pin washes are best applied to a gloss surface and filters to a matte surface. Should I do pin washes then matte clear, and then filter. Or matte clear, filter, future, pin washes then matte clear again?
Tojo72
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2016 - 12:01 AM UTC
I would normally filter first,but that's just preference,so just do lime you 1st said.
varanusk
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2016 - 01:21 AM UTC
I prefer filter first as well
MattEa
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2016 - 01:47 AM UTC
What would be a good matte coat to pick up for brushing so I can do the filter first?
tatbaqui
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ARMORAMA
#040
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2016 - 03:02 AM UTC
If you will handbrush, mix Tamiya Acrylic Flat Base X21 with Future. 50-50 ratio to start with; you may increase Flat Base to achieve the degree of flatness you want. Make sure you mix thoroughly, and do so from time to time as you put it on.
MattEa
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Monday, May 02, 2016 - 06:23 AM UTC
I bought tamiya flat base and mixed it with future at about 10:1 (future:base) as directed by the article "The Complete Future" for a flat base. Well it doesn't look very flat too me! How much dry time is needed to get a flat finish, or did I not add enough flat base?
brekinapez
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Georgia, United States
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Posted: Monday, May 02, 2016 - 07:06 AM UTC
Tat suggested a 50/50 ratio. Give that a shot. I think the 10:1 in favor of the Future may have been too strong. Future is meant to make your kitchen floor shine, remember, so you need more flat to offset that.
MattEa
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Monday, May 02, 2016 - 07:11 AM UTC
Ill try a 50/50 mix, I was worried about frosting! How long should I wait for the previous "not so flat coat" to dry before trying a stronger mix
tatbaqui
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#040
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Posted: Monday, May 02, 2016 - 07:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Tat suggested a 50/50 ratio. Give that a shot. I think the 10:1 in favor of the Future may have been too strong. Future is meant to make your kitchen floor shine, remember, so you need more flat to offset that.


Yep, at 10:1 in favor of Future it's as if you've used it undiluted. If I wanted it really flat then it's more Flat Base than Future. Just make sure you keep stirring the mix as you paint along as you could end up with unwanted whitish blemishes when dry. The white stuff, as I gather, is what makes the finish flat.

And yes, it doesn't take long for the finish to be dry to the touch, but as in any other paint coat I leave it undisturbed for at least 24 hours.

MattEa
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Monday, May 02, 2016 - 07:28 AM UTC
Thanks for the quick replies! I read so much about frosting online I got spooked. I'll try the flat coat again tomorrow night and post my results
MattEa
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, May 03, 2016 - 01:34 AM UTC
Alrighty folks I tried 50/50 on a scrap piece of plastic, so opted for a less potent mix of 40% flat base, and I now have a flat finish! I did get some slight frosting in one area, any way I can correct this? I still have to apply filters, then future, then pin washes, then more flat. So I am guessing all these additional effect will cover up the frosting, is this correct?
varanusk
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Tuesday, May 03, 2016 - 02:33 AM UTC
I find much easier to use Matt varnish, either from Vallejo, Ammo, Ak... or whatever. For the cost of a bottle, I do not see any advantage in playing with mixes. But it's just my opinion.
tatbaqui
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#040
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Tuesday, May 03, 2016 - 03:52 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Alrighty folks I tried 50/50 on a scrap piece of plastic, so opted for a less potent mix of 40% flat base, and I now have a flat finish! I did get some slight frosting in one area, any way I can correct this? I still have to apply filters, then future, then pin washes, then more flat. So I am guessing all these additional effect will cover up the frosting, is this correct?


Future as is should cover it. I'd only run the risk of those white blemishes when using a higher ratio of Flat Base over Future. At 40% mix as you say, my guess is that it was not thoroughly mixed or it got separated in your mixing cup during your application that's why you should constantly check / mix it. This is the reason why I'd rather brush it on so I can eyeball it. Patience and practice -- I know some folks would rather have something readily available, but am happily stuck with it.
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