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AFV Painting & Weathering
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News
Vallejo: New Weathering Products
varanusk
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Posted: Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 12:44 PM UTC


Vallejo is extending their catalogue of products with a whole new range of Weathering Effects. Apart form the usual fuel stains and mud, they offer different products like Crushed Grass or textured Moss and Lichen.

Read the Full News Story

If you have comments or questions please post them here.

Thanks!
bill_c
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Posted: Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 06:07 PM UTC
A bit "Johnny come lately," but nice to see anyway. My only concern with Vallejo washes like these is they're acrylic-based and can clump and clot if they come in contact with mineral/white spirits. So you have to go Vallejo all the way, and can't mix & match with Mig or AKI ones.
TRM5150
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Posted: Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 06:26 PM UTC
Not sure it's "johnny come lately" Bill, I see it as more of a "finally". Having acrylic options for these weathering products is a good thing. Being that they are acrylic in nature, oil based solvents are definitely a bad thing to be mixing them with. Water and/or acrylic thinners are certainly the way to go. If you do apply oil based paint or effects prior to or after any acrylics, there should be no adverse interactions as long as either base product has had a chance to cure.

One key factor that jumps out at me is the ability to weather the industry changing properties of the plastics used....like with tracks and such. There have been more and more instances where tracks simply fall apart due to the solvents in enamel-based effects. This is eliminated with the use of acrylics. This does not mean dispense with all usage of enamel products...just means that acrylics are a better solution to weathering these new plastics. If nothing else, this is step forward in modelling effects gives the modeller more options when sitting at the bench!
bill_c
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Posted: Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 08:31 PM UTC
Hi, Todd, those are good points. Though I will say I have not found the acrylic washes as effective as those using oil or enamels. Especially regarding oily stains, for example. And I can't imagine using powders without mineral spirits. And you're right, you have to make sure the underlying coatings are dried and "cured," or else cover them with a matte finish.

Maybe it's just personal preference having used the MIG and AKI ones for a long time.
slug955
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Posted: Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 08:41 PM UTC
So long as folks realise that acrylic products being water based will be no good applied over oil paint products and just run off. A case of one or the other.
TRM5150
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Posted: Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 09:45 PM UTC
David, that is not entirely correct. If the enamel paints and even oil based weathering products are dry, the acrylics will bind just fine. Vise versa with acrylic paint and oil based products. Best thing about acrylics is the drying times...far less than enamels and oils.
slug955
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Posted: Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 10:11 PM UTC
Todd, I tried AK oil paint streaking for the first time. Left a month to dry and it did feel dry. Applied 'True Earth' filter over and it just ran off the streaking. I gave the model some oven cleaner and repainted without the oil streaking. Not going down the streaking road again!!! Just how long do you leave oils???
varanusk
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Posted: Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 10:49 PM UTC
I agree with Todd, having an acrylic alternative is a good thing. They dry faster, are non-toxic and water soluble (which means also easier cleaning of brushes and tools).

Apart from that, for me it is the first time I see grass added to the mud, and it looks good.

I do not see either any problems with oils or enamels as long as they are dry.

David I have been able to remove an enamel wash over a satin base after three weeks, but I had to rub several times with a stiff brush.

Usually you put the filter first, as it covers the whole vehicle, and then the streaks and grime, which are more localized and will not remove the filter below.
TRM5150
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Posted: Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 11:53 PM UTC
Hey David, that does seem a bit strange. Even for oils. I assume the AK Interactive oils in the tubes is what you were using...which I actually have some myself...thinking I might have even done a review here for them somewhere along the way. There is more base linseed oil in these than tradition oil points such as the Windsor and Newton or even the 502 ABTEILUNG oils. Only thing I could figure on that one since the True Earth is a water based product is the excess oil in the AK brand prevented a bond to the surface. Understandably, I can see where you would not want to go that route again....if you still have them, and you want to play around, take some of the oils paint and place it onto a small piece of cardboard. Let this sit there for 15 minutes or so. You will notice the cardboard will wick out the oils from the pigment/paint. This helps two thing...allows for faster drying times and flattens out the shiny finish most oils have.


As for these new Vallejo Weathering products...I am going to give these a run for their money soon. I have the entire set and am trying to get into the cave to put them through some paces. I'll be sure to share what I find out!
slug955
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Posted: Friday, May 20, 2016 - 01:39 AM UTC
Hi Todd, I still have the oils, only a smear used! They were the streaking oils for the German Primer set, dense dark reds. No idea if the pigment colour has an affect on their drying. I dare say an over spray of non acrylic varnish would seal them, and then use acrylics, but that is a stage too far for me. I can live without oils!
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