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Dioramas
Do you love dioramas & vignettes? We sure do.
First ever diorama. Help
pnance26
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California, United States
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2016 - 07:21 PM UTC
I've found that you have to hold it up for a few seconds and give the glue a chance to set up... I am also not using very big clumps. Over on my thread, Russ gave me a great tip for making lots of grass at one time using double stick tape.

And I agree with the wet plaster idea except I wonder how you paint around the grass once the plaster is dry?

Keep experimenting... there are lots more ways to accomplish you goal but I have found that the guys and gals here really know their stuff!
Taylortony
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United Kingdom
Joined: November 30, 2010
KitMaker: 126 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Posted: Monday, June 27, 2016 - 08:48 PM UTC
you can also get this type of stuff

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X-Large-Grass-Tufts-SELF-ADHESIVE-model-scenery-miniatures-wargame-Train-oo-/281244327793?var=&hash=item417b77df71:m:mTta3WiubnlcjZXVqA-3RMQ

or look and buy a sample of artificial lawn if you want longer stuff, and try that, not tried that myself yet though
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 - 09:17 AM UTC
....I do have the same looking grass as what you have in your dio, which is very nice btw. But when I cut to length and dipped the end in white glue and stuck it to the base. Once dry.. It still fell over like it never adhered at all. Any guesses?[/quote]

Dustin,
I use two methods for attaching grass. The first method is the traditional "hole" drilled into the diorama base-- it works well for clumps of grass. The other method I use is to attach several "strips" of grass in a random line. for this I use the method I mentioned in Patrick Nance's build log, using double backed tape, alternating lengths of Woodland Scenic's grass, secured with a bead of Elmer's glue. When dry, I attach these strips with thick cyanoacrylate glue, and give it a shot of accelerator-- they don't fall over that way.
Someone mentioned static grass applicators-- you can build one from examples on You-tube, but I prefer a different method-- Noch, the German model railroad manufacturer, makes a simple static grass applicator-- a nylon/soft plastic bottle with a shaker head on it. You apply your attachment cement of choice (I prefer Elmer's glue, thinned 60% with water and a drop of dish-washing detergent). Once the adhesive is a little "tacky", loosely fill the grass applicator with static grass, rub the bottle on a piece of wool or synthetic Nylon, and the grass receives a static charge. Then you just shake it over your diorama as needed. The natural charge in the base will cause the "grass" to land upright. It works best in dry environments. When dry you can sparingly add more diluted Elmer's or flat clear-coat with an eye-dropper for a positive hold. It works pretty well for small area applications. Frankly, I don't like the look of static grass as much as I like the "turf" types of ground sponge intermixed with Noch grass sheet rolls, cut into small sections. But static grass does have it's applications, especially adjacent or under vehicle wheels or tracks. Since Patrick asked the question about painting plaster when dry-- you can use two methods-- airbrush, right over the grass, then airbrush the grass lightly again, or-- a method I like to use, very thin acrylic paint (Ceramcoat from Michael's is what I use) applied with an eye-dropper or one of those plastic pipettes. It will further help to anchor your work.
VR, Russ
53superC
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Alabama, United States
Joined: January 07, 2016
KitMaker: 17 posts
Armorama: 17 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 03, 2016 - 09:44 PM UTC
plaster is ok, but i have found an easier method. i cover the base with Woodland Scenics plaster cloth. this is easier than mixing plaster-of-pairs. next i use a product called sculptamold. I mix it with cheep water base paint. use one hue darker that you your trying to model because it dries light. sculptamold has a long working time and dries hard and wont crack like plaster. cover the plaster cloth with the sculptamods. an old butter knife bent to the shape you want works real good to work the wet gue.

just my 2 cents worth
Thirian24
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Monday, July 04, 2016 - 03:10 AM UTC
I really appreciate all of the comments. I'm ready to get back to this, just a lack of time right now.
GidGar
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Alaska, United States
Joined: August 22, 2005
KitMaker: 47 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 07:40 AM UTC
Nice work Dustin. As you said, easier to do than you thought.

I've made own homemade static grass applicator out of a department store mosquito killer (the ones that look like tennis rackets). It works okay for the static grass application. Check you tube for examples.

You could also just try rubbing a balloon with a static charge and holding it over the static grass to get it to stand up. At least I've read of it.....haven't tried yet myself!

Keep experimenting, looks good!
Phil5000
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New Zealand
Joined: May 13, 2013
KitMaker: 165 posts
Armorama: 135 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 17, 2016 - 09:14 AM UTC
You obviously have a knack for it. Looks great. Realistic groundwork is one of the things I've always struggled with. Can I ask what the scatter is? If its gravel what kind? Where did you get it? If its from outside (not a modelling product from a shop) did you clean it somehow to kill fungus?

The way I do grass is to use hemp rope. Make different size clumps, cut the bottom of the clump flat with scissors then dip it in white glue and plomp it down. Then use tweezers or a toothpick or something to adjust it so its upright. It will probably look more realistic than drilling holes because the clumps can be different sizes. When its dry stand a figure next to it and trim it so it's not too high. It probably shoulldn't be higher than the knee.
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