Many thanks
DJ
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
SSG Tom need help!
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Friday, July 29, 2016 - 10:11 PM UTC
SSG Tom-- I have a NEO Iwata air brush. I only use acrylic paint in her. With few exceptions, I paint using the Tamiya XF line. So, here is my difficulty. Using distilled water, I mix my paint. Air pressure is usually 15-20 psi. The paint flows as expected. I am a happy Soldier. When I complete the initial application, I disassemble and clean my brush with air brush cleaner, Q Tips...get her all nice and shiny. Upon re assembly, the air flow works fine, but no paint comes out. If I take the needle out, the air flows along with anything in the chamber makes a total mess of the work area. Now, there is a very small part inside the nose assembly which I also clean and push a small piece of cotton through -- comes out clean. She works fine after this last exercise. But, it is a total pain in the 4th point of contact. What am I doing wrong?
Many thanks
DJ
Many thanks
DJ
flippen_waffles
Joined: June 01, 2010
KitMaker: 143 posts
Armorama: 116 posts
Posted: Friday, July 29, 2016 - 11:39 PM UTC
I think you are referring to part number 3 in the diagram. It can be clogged easily with paint remnants. I usually clean it with an old long bristle paint brush every time after I spray.
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 01:25 AM UTC
Yes, I am referring to part 3....so, in between every paint application, you clean it out? In my case, no paint comes out, but take part 3 out and put it back in then the brush works afterwards..... 
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 01:42 AM UTC
It doesn't take much to booger that piece up. I actually use an old micro-fine proxy dental brush dipped in solvent to clean mine. Usually only do it between color changes.
Belt_Fed
Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,325 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 03:04 AM UTC
when you are done painting, you do not need to detail strip your weapon i mean airbrush to every part. Fill the cup with a solvent and scrub the sides with a q tip. then, dump it out. add some solvent and blast it out of the airbrush. with some solvent left, cover the nozzle with your finger, blast air and pull the trigger back to backwash the airbrush. you will see lots of bubbles come up. then remove your finger and blast it away. remove your needle and whipe it with a paper towel damp with solvent. return the needle back to the airbrush carefully. add a cleaner like vallejo or Ammo and blast it. these cleaners have a built in lubricant.
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 04:57 AM UTC
Jon-- what solvent are you using? I have Media Air Brush cleaner. What is bugging me is the fact that if do not disassemble my weapon of choice all the way down, it will not function. The number 3 part in the diagram has to taken off then I run the pix through it and we are back to functionality. I should add that there is no paint or other blockage coming out of the #3 part when I perform my pain in the butt exercise....
Thanks
DJ
Thanks
DJ
PRH001
Joined: June 16, 2014
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 603 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 06:50 AM UTC
If you are using Tamiya paints then your problem begins with what you are using to thin the paint. Tamiya paint requires either X-20A thinner or lacquer thinner from Tamiya or Gunze. It does not spray correctly with water as the thinning agent. It will also have problems adhering to the surface you are painting unless it primed.
Those thinners will also be essential to clean the brush. Medea airbrush cleaner is not formulated to thoroughly clean paints like Tamiya. Spraying thinner, back flushing and then spraying until clear, pulling the needle and wiping it down with thinner, using a brush to clean the nozzle and using airbrush lube when reassembling should prevent this issue. The piece you are removing is very fragile and should be left alone as much as possible.
Hope this helps,
Paul H
Those thinners will also be essential to clean the brush. Medea airbrush cleaner is not formulated to thoroughly clean paints like Tamiya. Spraying thinner, back flushing and then spraying until clear, pulling the needle and wiping it down with thinner, using a brush to clean the nozzle and using airbrush lube when reassembling should prevent this issue. The piece you are removing is very fragile and should be left alone as much as possible.
Hope this helps,
Paul H
Belt_Fed
Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,325 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 07:24 AM UTC
I clean all acrylics with 91% isopropyl alcohol. I agree eith the above that you will get much better results when thinning the paint with tamiya or mr. hobby thinners.
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
Armorama: 2,248 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 07:25 AM UTC
DJ,
I use the same brush, and have had the same troubles. And I think water is your problem.
I use artist acrylics thinned with Future, glass cleaner and water. I was having the same problem as you. I don't think the problem is in your nozzle. I never had anything in my nozzle either.
I added one step to my cleaning process, and the problem ended. My final new step in cleaning was to fill the cup with isopropyl alcohol and spray it through. I think the alcohol dried any water which is a part of allacrylic paints.
Good luck,
Gaz
I use the same brush, and have had the same troubles. And I think water is your problem.
I use artist acrylics thinned with Future, glass cleaner and water. I was having the same problem as you. I don't think the problem is in your nozzle. I never had anything in my nozzle either.
I added one step to my cleaning process, and the problem ended. My final new step in cleaning was to fill the cup with isopropyl alcohol and spray it through. I think the alcohol dried any water which is a part of allacrylic paints.
Good luck,
Gaz
flippen_waffles
Joined: June 01, 2010
KitMaker: 143 posts
Armorama: 116 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 08:34 AM UTC
DJ - I isually use distilled water when I spray Vallejo/AK/Ammo paint to get most of the paint remnants out then I'll follow up with hardware store lacquer thinner or acetone. If you dump the lacquer thinner or acetone in with Vallejo/AK/Ammo with will "curdle" the paint and further clog the nozzle.
For the detail cleaning I will also use acetone/lacquer thinner.
If I'm going to be painting again later I'll do a "back flush" where you fill the paint cup with thinner and cover the nozzle with your finger then SLOWLY pull back and press down on the trigger for air/paint.
For the detail cleaning I will also use acetone/lacquer thinner.
If I'm going to be painting again later I'll do a "back flush" where you fill the paint cup with thinner and cover the nozzle with your finger then SLOWLY pull back and press down on the trigger for air/paint.
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 05:21 PM UTC
Quoted Text
If you are using Tamiya paints then your problem begins with what you are using to thin the paint. Tamiya paint requires either X-20A thinner or lacquer thinner from Tamiya or Gunze. It does not spray correctly with water as the thinning agent. It will also have problems adhering to the surface you are painting unless it primed.
Those thinners will also be essential to clean the brush. Medea airbrush cleaner is not formulated to thoroughly clean paints like Tamiya. Spraying thinner, back flushing and then spraying until clear, pulling the needle and wiping it down with thinner, using a brush to clean the nozzle and using airbrush lube when reassembling should prevent this issue. The piece you are removing is very fragile and should be left alone as much as possible.
Hope this helps,
Paul H
Paul-- I believe you hit the nail on the head!
Thanks
DJ
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 05:21 PM UTC
Quoted Text
DJ - I isually use distilled water when I spray Vallejo/AK/Ammo paint to get most of the paint remnants out then I'll follow up with hardware store lacquer thinner or acetone. If you dump the lacquer thinner or acetone in with Vallejo/AK/Ammo with will "curdle" the paint and further clog the nozzle.
For the detail cleaning I will also use acetone/lacquer thinner.
If I'm going to be painting again later I'll do a "back flush" where you fill the paint cup with thinner and cover the nozzle with your finger then SLOWLY pull back and press down on the trigger for air/paint.
Jon-- thanks very much
DJ
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 05:24 PM UTC
Quoted Text
DJ,
I use the same brush, and have had the same troubles. And I think water is your problem.
I use artist acrylics thinned with Future, glass cleaner and water. I was having the same problem as you. I don't think the problem is in your nozzle. I never had anything in my nozzle either.
I added one step to my cleaning process, and the problem ended. My final new step in cleaning was to fill the cup with isopropyl alcohol and spray it through. I think the alcohol dried any water which is a part of allacrylic paints.
Good luck,
Gaz
Gaz-- when I add your observation and technique to what other advise, I believe the solution is at hand.
I thank each one of you fine folks for the invaluable assistance you provided...well done!
DJ
Lonewolf7usa
Joined: March 24, 2009
KitMaker: 312 posts
Armorama: 296 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 06:18 PM UTC
Hey DJ, Lonewolf7 here. Something else that might help is using alcohol to thin Tamiya paint. I use the same paint exclusively and I have found that using alcohol helps with spraying and cleaning. Just my 2 cents!
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 06:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey DJ, Lonewolf7 here. Something else that might help is using alcohol to thin Tamiya paint. I use the same paint exclusively and I have found that using alcohol helps with spraying and cleaning. Just my 2 cents!
Lone wolf 7-- Thank you for your recommendation
DJ
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 06:38 PM UTC
I sincerely thank all who responded to my call for assistance. Here is how I would summarize the input for others to consider:
1. Thin Tamiya XF paints with either X20A Tamiya thinner, Tamiya Lacquer or alcohol
2. Final cleaning step use isopropyl alcohol to clear out the remaining acrylic paint residue in the brush-- see comments on "back flush" above
3. If you use AK/Ammo/Vallejo paint use distilled water
If I incorrectly stated or misinterpreted anything let me know
Once again, great discussion and marvelous feedback provided in a very timely manner.
My thanks
DJ
1. Thin Tamiya XF paints with either X20A Tamiya thinner, Tamiya Lacquer or alcohol
2. Final cleaning step use isopropyl alcohol to clear out the remaining acrylic paint residue in the brush-- see comments on "back flush" above
3. If you use AK/Ammo/Vallejo paint use distilled water
If I incorrectly stated or misinterpreted anything let me know
Once again, great discussion and marvelous feedback provided in a very timely manner.
My thanks
DJ
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