Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 04, 2016 - 04:53 AM UTC
Time to start the new M4E13 project, now that the tracks arrived.
The Tamiya will donate the lower hull, the Dragon Panther F will donate the gun and the Asuka M4 will donate the hull and turret.
I'm using Fruil T-66 tracks, a RB Panther barrel, Master-Model 30 cal, with parts from Panzer Art, Royal Models, Meng and Shapeways. Plus, a lot of spare parts and plastic stock.
I did some testing and think the Tamiya lower hull will be a good base for conversions, and is not too pricey. The Asuka model is a parts kit missing some lower hull parts borrowed for another project. I plan on using the Dragon F hull on another project.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
California, United States
Joined: June 01, 2010
KitMaker: 143 posts
Armorama: 116 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 04, 2016 - 07:37 AM UTC
Looking forward to this build. What if builds are my favorite subject!
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 04, 2016 - 08:23 AM UTC
I started with the lower hull. When building the Taska/Asuka kits I learned to cut some plastic sheet to square up the hull. I cut three strips to size, but only needed the short one.
I used the strip at the front and added the nose after the base hull was glued up. At the rear I removed the fender attachment triangles from the add in extensions.
The fit of the hull sides is not as precise as the Asuka, but I like the molded on return roller mounts, and the solid bases for the HVSS boogies.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 04, 2016 - 08:45 AM UTC
The Asuka M4 early hull fits the Tamiya nose perfectly.
At the rear the hull is a bit short, but I am converting to the M4A3 engine deck so that was expected. None the less, the Asuka hull is a perfect fit in height and slope of the armor.
I will use the Tamiya 'A3 deck on the Asuka hull. It is a fraction narrow, and thicker than the Asuka 'A3 deck. I will cut out the deck support strips to lower the deck plate.
So far I have noticed some good and bad points about both the Asuka M4A3E8 and the Tamiya M4A3E8. The Asuka hull has finer fit, but is less solid, and the nose is a royal pain to line up properly. The Tamiya is less precise, but is solid and everything lined up just fine. I will need to fill in a bit here and there, but no complaints
I like the perfect fit between the two kits. Next up is building the Tamiya 'E8 suspension and seeing how it compares to the Asuka 'E8.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 04, 2016 - 08:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Looking forward to this build. What if builds are my favorite subject!
I like the What If's also. I won't be going to crazy on this one.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Friday, August 05, 2016 - 08:04 AM UTC
I found the hull inserts from the Asuka M4 fit perfectly. The thick strips are to hold the inserts level.
After a little effort the inserts are lined up with the Asuka upper hull. After I get the engine deck and the rear hull parts fitted I can glue the hulls together.
One half of the suspension is ready. Having done both Taska/Asuka and the new Tamiya 'E8 sets I have to admit I prefer the simpler Tamiya boogies. Maybe one of the 3D people can make a glue in spring to solve the hole in the spring problem!
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Friday, August 05, 2016 - 11:15 PM UTC
More work on the hull last night. I replaced the molded on grab handles on the Tamiya A3 deck with brass rod. My tired old eyes almost did me in, so these are a little off kilter. I glued strips of .005 (.125mm) plastic on each side of the deck to center it in the opening.
With the deck in I glued the hulls together and added an old Asuka A3 rear plate. I had to put in a filler strip as there was a gap between the engine deck and the rear plate. Not unusual for a conversion of this sort.
This morning I added spacer strips between the M4 hull and the M4A3 rear plate. Any gaps will be covered by welds later.
The next step on the hull is to lay out the armor plates to up-armor the hull to the M4A3E2 specs. In the mean time I'm working on the other set of HVSS boogies.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 06, 2016 - 10:20 AM UTC
At this stage I wasn't sure if I would fill in the gaps between the add on armor and the hull, so I added a welded cover over the cut down radio pot, and cut off the kit lift hooks. The thick blocks are .080 x .25 (2 x 6.3mm) spacers tacked on to help center the thick add on front plate.
The plate is on and taped in place until the glue dries. The front plate is .080 (2mm) thick. It is hard to see, but I notched the plate down in front of the drivers hood.
The hull side plates are cut out of .060 (1.5mm) sheet. The add on plate to the nose is .080. The thick round rod will be cut down and covered with a lift hook. I put it in to hold the plate on.
With the add on armor, the hull front has armor 4.75 inches (120.65mm) thick, the sides are 3.5 inches (88.9mm).
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
European Union
Joined: January 28, 2015
KitMaker: 2,099 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 07, 2016 - 03:22 AM UTC
Great work so far, Randall.
Never gonna' give EU up, never gonna' let EU down.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 07, 2016 - 07:45 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Great work so far, Randall.
Thank you.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 07, 2016 - 07:54 AM UTC
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 07, 2016 - 08:29 AM UTC
I'm really liking your M4E13 series Randall! Your conversions are really solid and the subjects are interesting. Keep up the great work.
Best,
Matt
SSG, INF, USA (Ret.)
"I am waiting for the tanks, and the Americans."
General Philippe Petain, September 1917
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Monday, August 08, 2016 - 02:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm really liking your M4E13 series Randall! Your conversions are really solid and the subjects are interesting. Keep up the great work.
Thank you. This had been a fun project.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Monday, August 08, 2016 - 02:15 AM UTC
The lower hull has just about all of the parts on, with a little filler needed here and there. The front tow lugs have the tow hooks molded on the inner ones. The add on armor did not fit so I had to cut the tips off. These will not be seen anyhow.
The white strips and discs were added to show the hull was once fitted with a radial engine, now converted to the 'A3 GAA V8. I based the details off the Asuka M4 hull.
Time to add some details to the upper hull.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 09, 2016 - 05:19 AM UTC
The hull is almost done. I know the seam on the sprockets need to be filled in! I decided to add plates over the grouser holes, since they are not needed with the HVSS M4A3. I used the Asuka tools, and will add the missing tool holders, straps and other details as time permits. I have a long week at work this week.
I am debating about what fenders to use. The Askua M4A3E8, or some Voyager pe I picked up.
Work on the turret will start later in the week. The plan is to depict the gun like the IDF M50, with the gun trunions extended out. I had an idea that might solve a couple problems with the gun. If it works I will have some pictures.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
New York, United States
Joined: March 04, 2015
KitMaker: 125 posts
Armorama: 125 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 09, 2016 - 06:43 AM UTC
I like what you did with the front hull armor, and how it also acts as spaced armor.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 10, 2016 - 09:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I like what you did with the front hull armor, and how it also acts as spaced armor.
Thanks, I like how it looks. The spaced armor should cause the poor Soviet 85mm rounds to break up, but might not be as good with the IS 122mm.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 10, 2016 - 09:20 AM UTC
A few new parts, and some changes. I removed the barrel clamp, it did not look right. I changed the bolts heads on the nose armor for larger ones. The tools are ready for straps and buckles. Plates to support the engine doors are on, and, I made up a Panther style cleaning rods tube.
I need to make up a barrel clamp that's lower on the front plate, or move it to the rear.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 12:03 AM UTC
Last week I was on ebay looking at Dragon Panther kits and just happened upon the Tamiya 1/48th Panther. I calculated the 1/48 mantlet was about the same size as the IDF M50 mantlet.
A day of tinkering and the gun and outer mantlet are done. I used one of the unused mantlets from the Dragon Panther F for the gun opening. After filling and shaping a thin layer of body filler blends it all together.
I have the straps and buckles on the tools, and all that's left are the chains for the fuel covers, the hatch springs and fenders.
Now I have a 1/48th Panther missing some turret parts, and I think the road wheels will end up on another What If project. The Panther F won't be used after all, but I got the kit to put a Coelian turret on it. That's another What If.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 01:37 AM UTC
Hi, Randall!
Are you planning to counter-balance the extra weight and length of the KwK.42 L/70 Gun Barrel..? Or am I sticking my nose where it doesn't belong..?
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 02:37 AM UTC
[quote]
Quoted Text
Hi, Randall!
Are you planning to counter-balance the extra weight and length of the KwK.42 L/70 Gun Barrel..? Or am I sticking my nose where it doesn't belong..?
Dennis,
I have a bustle box planned for the turret to counterweight the gun, and the added on armor on the turret. It will be a simpler design than used on the first Sherman/Panther.
I just got done hacking apart an Asuka 75mm turret as added armor. 3.00 US from the sprues listing. It was an easy fit on the other Sherman/Panther, but on this one I used the no pistol port, cheek thickened turret. I had to do some adjusting, and there are some issues to deal with.
Next up, time to do some tracks.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 04:24 AM UTC
Maybe you should have used a Firefly turret both for the extra recoil length, and for the second roof hatch for the gunner because the breech takes up so much space.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 06:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Maybe you should have used a Firefly turret both for the extra recoil length, and for the second roof hatch for the gunner because the breech takes up so much space.
I have a 3D printed loaders hatch for this turret. Once I test the hatch, fit and assembly, I'll take some pictures.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 08:24 AM UTC
I planned on using the Fruil T66 tracks on a couple projects, but the first track has been discouraging. The length of track looks like a C. I will try drilling the inner track holes larger to see if I can reduce the arc.
I took a few minutes to put in the loaders hatch. The flat plate has the print lines on it, so I am going to try a set with the finer, higher cost, print. The hatch is part of a M50 set made by Z Dimension over at Shapeways. He has a new set that is just the hatch inset and hatch. Z Dimension made up a nice M50 mantlet and put it up at Shapeways when I asked about it. He made up just about everything you need to turn a Sherman into the early VVSS IDF M50 for us chronic do it yourselfers.
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Monday, August 15, 2016 - 01:20 AM UTC
The Fruil tracks are on hold until I get in some drills. I drill out Fruil tracks with a #75 (.5mm) drill bit. I don't have a #74 or 73. I found out no #73 were available so I went with #72 bits. The cheapest was through Amazon, and with free shipping!
I tested with the Tamiya ds tracks, and they look ok, but I spent money on the Fruils, and they will be used!
I also got a set of the Kaizen T80 tracks for my M50, and put some together to test the fit and how they work. Very nice, but very time consuming. However, they will take some abuse
I found a nifty feature on the forums called HIDE USER.
I was going to try it on myself and go stealth, but it only works on other users.
