As the title says, im talking about everything from paint to washes and pigments.
What brands do you use and why ? and what brands have you used before ?
I am currently using vallejos products but i would like to know if there is anything that would be better to switch to.

it all depends. I used Tamiya, Mr. Hobby, AK, AMMO, Vallejo, Badger for airbrushing. Depending on what colours I had at the moment,etc.

Any brand can work if you learn how to use the paints.

For weathering - cheap oils from Clas Ohlson or more oxpensive Abt 502, AMMO products, Mig productions, Vallejo pigments.

Paints - I primarily use Tamiya. They paint well and I have very very little issues with airbrushing them. I also have AK paints that I use less often, but no real reason for that. I just picked up some Vallejo paints so I can have a variation in colors between my builds.

Washes - I use AK and MIG. They both work very well. I like these because I don't have to worry about ratios, mixing or making sure I have a proper color. They are awesome.

Pigments - I use MIG and Vallejo.. And I even think there are a few AK too. They also all work very well. I use AK pigment fixer with these.

Oil paints - I have done weathering with oil paints one time so far. I used a cheap set from Walmart. They worked perfectly. I used Mona Lisa odorless thinner.

Really, I don't think you can go wrong with any products on the market. Only thing I would recommend, that I've seen other recommend, is to use the same brand of product for the thinner. For instance, if you plan to thin Vallejo paints to air brush, use their thinner. I haven't had any issue with not doing this, but I've seen many other people make this recommendation.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Dustin

Paints: mostly Humbrol Enamel,some time Life Color Acrilycs and some Vallejo but i dont really like them

Washes and Filters: DIY with Oils and Enamel or Ammo and AK and cupple of Mig and True Earth,i save lots of time

Pigments: Mig and Vallejo,to fix depend of wath i have to do,Pigment fixer AK,turpentine or white spirit,decalfix,varnish....

Oils: Talents-Rembrant with odorless Turpentine or White spirit

My choices change over time due to paint quality and availability. I started with Testors then Pactra, changed to Humbrol followed by Model Master and Tamiya and I am slowly moving to Life color.
Testors, Pactra and Humbrol were enamels.
I began using Model Master enamels but switches to acrylics.
Tamiya and Life Color are acrylics.

I started with what the toy store sold and used better paint as it became available. I changed to a hobby shop and used Humbrol until I moved. The new shop carried Model Master and I liked the color availability. I got married and changed to Acrylics to reduce the paint smell complaints plus it was easier to clean up.

I paint in acrylics. Lifecolor is my absolute favorite paint for many reasons. I also have Tamiya, Vallejo, AMMO by Mig, AK and Hataka. The last 4 were bought for their paint sets.
I use Future for gloss coat.
I mix my own flat coat.
I mix my own washes and filters with Winsor & Newton oils and odorless mineral spirits.
I use Ammo by Mig special effects.
I use Ammo by Mig pigments.

I got back into modeling this spring after a 40 year hiatus (plus I'm disabled now so I have LOTS of spare time!), and I initially bought a couple sets of Testor's Enamels, simply because that's what I used when I was a kid. Since then I have been picking up Tamiya Acrylics, as they have a much better range of colors. I'm airbrushless (plenty of time, not so much $,LOL)and I'm considering some spray can enamels/primers. Anyone have much to say about these?

Spray Tamiya acrylics, Model Master Acrylics,Vallejo acrylics, Lifecolor Acrylics...Tamiya is the best of the bunch.
Brush is strictly Vallejo.Humbrol enamel
Pigments Mig & Vallejo.
Washes Mig enamels & Vallejo acrylic.
Humbrol Precision polly cement (ace)
Testors Red ( strong bond)
Microscale Micro Weld
Bob Smith Industries CA Gab filling medium, & thin
Tamiya putty, Vallejo Plastic putty
Vallejo glaze
Atlas 00 Sable brushes
Microscale gloss, satin, Vallejo satin
Future
Gamesworkshop Purity Seal
Silly putty
Thinners:
Tamiya, Lifecolor, Vallejo thinner & air brush thinner, Model Master thinner, Mineral Spirits, 99.9% Alcohol
Winton Oil paint , Linseed oil .
Water (filtered)

Like the rest, I use a variety of paints, but this variety is generally limited.

For most airbrushed surfaces I use Vallejo products - specifically model air. They offer a wide range of colors and so far I've had very good results shooting straight out of the bottle.

For primer I usually use Vallejo too - but, for subjects with lots of fine detail I'll use Tamiya grey from the can. For washes I use AK products. I use Life Color Dust I or II washes on almost everything I build.

For figures, I prime with Vallejo. For skin colors I use a set from Scalecolor. These paints are thick, so I thin them with Vallejo thinner medium. I like this combination and while my figure painting isn't great, I can get consistent results. With this combination I can fairly easily apply washes of colors and avoid unwanted blobs of color or weird textures.

For clothing I use (brush paint) Vallejo, and for accent washes (eye sockets, ears etc) use Secret Weapon acrylic washes. These washes are great - they generally enhance my mediocre effort to paint skin - and work particularly well with high quality resin parts - like Hornet heads.

I'll try new products too - but, for the most part I use what's noted above -

Interesting thread!

Cheers
Nick

Tamiya, Vallejo, Testors; mostly acrylics but some Model Master enamels; weather with pastel chalks, washes made of water-color craft paints; simply can't afford MiG, Wilder, etc. good stuff but out of my price range;

I have been using Tamiya acryls for many years. The are easy to run through an ab and decent to brush on, with retarder. However, I am moving to Vallejo as they are easy to run through an ab and don't require retarder to brush paint. Mainly, I use Doc 'Obriens pigments. They are inexpensive and work well. I use any other pigment, if it is the correct color. Chalk does not work well. I has a tendency to disappear, when you apply a clear coat. I make my own washes, using reduced Model Master or Testors enamels. I used to run MM and Testors through my ab. I don't really know why I switched. Floquil is very nice, but no longer available. I have had great success decanting spray paint for air brushing.

I can say it's primarily Tamiya, given that it is available to me locally. Lucky to have Vallejo products from an artist supply shop as well. Here goes:

DIY-class rattle cans for Primer
Tamiya enamels for base coats. As I am the lazy sort in cleaning the AB, I'd use Tamiya rattle cans if I can get away with it
For washes, I choose between Tamiya Acrylics, Tamiya Panel Line Accent, Vallejo Wash
For filters I've use heavily thinned Vallejo Wash
Oils -- I have Winsor & Newton, Van Gogh, and even Reeves. Again it's a matter of what is available in terms of colors that I need
Clear coat -- Future; to go matte, dead flat I mix it with Tamiya Flat Base
Pigments -- that's something I have to try soon

Paints: all acrylics: Model Master, Tamiya, Polly S, ModelFlex, and sometimes some craft paints from Michaels.

EDIT: Spray cans, when I have to use them, vary. Mostly Testors, or Krylon or similar (the latter have a number of colors that are very common in 1:1 truck fleets, which are my main modeling interest)...I don't use spray cans for anything military related. I have some Tamiya sprays, but in my experience they are very fussy.


Weathering items: Doc Weather's weathering powders (MicroMark), MicroMark Rust and Dust (far better than the Rust-All system), and also ground chalk pastels. You can buy a setr of the latter from any decent art supply store for $10-20.

I make my own washes; would never buy pre-made ones.

i forget...i have also some Humbrol pigments good qualiti very fine pigments