Hi, im working on a dio with a cement wall on it, just wanted see what you guys thought, Heres the pic.
Hosted by Darren Baker
ruined cement wall
WAR-TOOL
Idaho, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 - 12:45 PM UTC
Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 - 12:58 PM UTC
It would be interesting to see a 1/35 figure beside the wall to get a scale perspective.
Is it a wall to a house or an apartment block or just a concrete wall surrounding a pigsty? All these things offer different details that can be added to make it more realistic.
The concrete wall shown looks good ... nice texture, and very nice colours.
But if it is blown up .... the blast would blow the wall at weaker areas like around windows and doors. Corners usually hold up better. The break off area on the left side is a bit structured... a perfect "s" nearly.
Is it a wall to a house or an apartment block or just a concrete wall surrounding a pigsty? All these things offer different details that can be added to make it more realistic.
The concrete wall shown looks good ... nice texture, and very nice colours.
But if it is blown up .... the blast would blow the wall at weaker areas like around windows and doors. Corners usually hold up better. The break off area on the left side is a bit structured... a perfect "s" nearly.
dbusack
South Dakota, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 - 12:58 PM UTC
If this is a modern concrete wall, wouldn't it have rebar? What did you make it out of? It looks good.
Don
Don
WAR-TOOL
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Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 - 01:13 PM UTC
Hi, well its not suposed to be modern, im planning on using it for a WW2 dio, and the wall is about as tall as a 35th scale figure, It is constructed out of blue foam, and i havent waether it yet, also the one wall is pretty fractured up, and is not exactly perfect. Thanks for the replies
Monte
Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 - 01:21 PM UTC
Looks good from my house.
panzerseba
Vrancea, Romania
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Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 - 06:06 PM UTC
looks good
some remarks>
i think it need some steel in
the cracks in the wall are too round, make them a litle bit angled
some remarks>
i think it need some steel in
the cracks in the wall are too round, make them a litle bit angled
Major_Goose
Kikladhes, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 - 06:23 PM UTC
so far so good my friend . Some items to help .
Yoy say that the wall is in the height of an 1/35 figure. i Think to show up the wall and the figure you have to make it bigger. Also you have to know that if a house wall goes down like that much the rumble prodused is much so have it in mind for the dio setup. You could also put some iron bars and make em rusty like i did in the following pic. The blue foam is very handy about it . For nice rumble i use the hammer method. i pour in a surface some plaster mix, leave it to dry well for 2-3 days and then with my hammer i break it in different sizes (but take care to the size of them - not too big not all of them too small need variety there) and you pour them around in the most normal way you think they could .
Habe u also measured the thickness of the wall scalling it down from 1/1 to 1/35. I mean a wall has thickness from 30 cm to 70cm (old stone houses) so scaled down would be 0,85 - 2 cm thick in the dio .keep the proportion other wise it will look unnormal or very thick when the figures or other dio elements will be compaed.
i hope i helped a lil
Yoy say that the wall is in the height of an 1/35 figure. i Think to show up the wall and the figure you have to make it bigger. Also you have to know that if a house wall goes down like that much the rumble prodused is much so have it in mind for the dio setup. You could also put some iron bars and make em rusty like i did in the following pic. The blue foam is very handy about it . For nice rumble i use the hammer method. i pour in a surface some plaster mix, leave it to dry well for 2-3 days and then with my hammer i break it in different sizes (but take care to the size of them - not too big not all of them too small need variety there) and you pour them around in the most normal way you think they could .
Habe u also measured the thickness of the wall scalling it down from 1/1 to 1/35. I mean a wall has thickness from 30 cm to 70cm (old stone houses) so scaled down would be 0,85 - 2 cm thick in the dio .keep the proportion other wise it will look unnormal or very thick when the figures or other dio elements will be compaed.
i hope i helped a lil
mastertyno
Porto, Portugal
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Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2004 - 02:32 AM UTC
Well the wall looks good even if it isn't weathered yet!!! But really if it is a cement wall I think it need some metal bars, just drill some holes and stick some thick wire in it... maybe add some more shaped cracks to add some realism...
See yaaa
See yaaa
ambrose82
California, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2004 - 04:02 AM UTC
The coloration looks great.
It's accuracy really depends on what the wall is supposed to have been used for and when it was made. If it's a bunker wall or a tall building, it should be reinforced with rebar. Also, concrete is an aggregate made from dust and small stones. When it is damaged it tends to crumble apart, not split. The edges of damage in a concrete wall should be more rounded and particulate, not so symmetrical and straight. With the foam, you can roughen up the edges by the judicious use of acetone. Dip a q-tip in acetone and squeeze out any excess. then lightly tough the edges. Make sure you have water or a damp paper towel on hand to douse the acetone if it gets too aggressive.
A second consideration is how the wall was made. Concrete always requires a form to hold it in. Looking at pictures of old bunkers, you can see the wood grain impressed into the cement. You can also see where some of the concrete bulged out in gaps in the forms. These kinds of details will add extra realism to the wall.
It's accuracy really depends on what the wall is supposed to have been used for and when it was made. If it's a bunker wall or a tall building, it should be reinforced with rebar. Also, concrete is an aggregate made from dust and small stones. When it is damaged it tends to crumble apart, not split. The edges of damage in a concrete wall should be more rounded and particulate, not so symmetrical and straight. With the foam, you can roughen up the edges by the judicious use of acetone. Dip a q-tip in acetone and squeeze out any excess. then lightly tough the edges. Make sure you have water or a damp paper towel on hand to douse the acetone if it gets too aggressive.
A second consideration is how the wall was made. Concrete always requires a form to hold it in. Looking at pictures of old bunkers, you can see the wood grain impressed into the cement. You can also see where some of the concrete bulged out in gaps in the forms. These kinds of details will add extra realism to the wall.
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2004 - 04:22 PM UTC
Hi War-tool. have you painted directly onto the foam board? It looks like this to me. What have you used to glue the sides together? This could be what has caused the roughness in the corner! I use medium temperature hot glue for speed, but white glue would work well also.
One thing when weathering .......... if you use oil or enamel washes .... you might get a shock. The thinner may melt the foam. Wash this with acrylics or water colours.
I personally wouldn´t use aceton or other "hot" glues to cause damage as it gives an un-natural effect on foam ........ burns in the middle and leaves the less-porous outer sides. Better to cut the rough shapes with a knife.
One thing when weathering .......... if you use oil or enamel washes .... you might get a shock. The thinner may melt the foam. Wash this with acrylics or water colours.
I personally wouldn´t use aceton or other "hot" glues to cause damage as it gives an un-natural effect on foam ........ burns in the middle and leaves the less-porous outer sides. Better to cut the rough shapes with a knife.