Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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Which milliput should I get???
bots1141
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 14, 2013
KitMaker: 318 posts
Armorama: 313 posts
Joined: October 14, 2013
KitMaker: 318 posts
Armorama: 313 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 05:35 AM UTC
I want to try making some mantlet covers using milliput but I'm not sure which one to get. They all say that they can be used for modelling. I just want something thats easy to sculpt and has a couple of hours working time. Thanks!
Kevlar06
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 06:09 AM UTC
My understanding is they are all the same-- just different colors. I use yellow-gray and silver-gray for most modeling needs because those colors are the easiest to paint over. You'll need to sculpt quickly though with Milliput because it'll be rock hard and difficult to carve by hand in 12-14 hours. I also recommend keeping a small bowl of water on your workbench to dip your carving tools in, as it tends to stick to objects, but smooths out fine with water. I work it on a sheet of wax paper because of this. I also wear rubber gloves for handling it for the same reason. I like to "blend it" in my hand (wearing powder-free medical gloves). By kneading the two parts together and the warmth of my hand softens it making it much easier to work with. Thorough mixing of the two parts is also important-- I make sure there are no "chunks" of unmixed epoxy by lengthening it into a long string, and doubling it into a ball repeatedly. Over time, Milliput might harden in the plastic bag tubes-- it will soften with thorough blending and heat. Just make sure the bags are air tight when you store it between sessions. It's excellent for making specialized parts, just get to carving it before it hardens completely, or you'll need a power tool for carving.
VR, Russ
VR, Russ
Headhunter506
New York, United States
Joined: December 01, 2007
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Joined: December 01, 2007
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 06:12 AM UTC
Magic-Sculpt is better, and a hell of a lot less expensive than Milliput.
You could pick it up at an art supply store or check online.
That's one of the many reasons Magic-Sculpt is a superior product. The resin is non-crystallizing and literally lasts a lifetime.
You could pick it up at an art supply store or check online.
Quoted Text
Over time, Milliput might harden in the plastic bag tubes
That's one of the many reasons Magic-Sculpt is a superior product. The resin is non-crystallizing and literally lasts a lifetime.
Kevlar06
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 07:38 AM UTC
I agree with the suggestion of Magic-sculpt, but Milliput hardens to the consistency of ceramics-- depends on what you plan to do with it really. It won't crack or pit either. I have Milliput pieces that are over 20 years old, that look like they did the day they were made.
VR Russ
VR Russ
joepanzer
North Carolina, United States
Joined: January 21, 2004
KitMaker: 803 posts
Armorama: 740 posts
Joined: January 21, 2004
KitMaker: 803 posts
Armorama: 740 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 08:19 AM UTC
Say Joe Z-
Does it only come in 2.5lb tubs?
Never mind. There's a dude on ebay that sells 2oz samples for $6
Does it only come in 2.5lb tubs?
Never mind. There's a dude on ebay that sells 2oz samples for $6
junglejim
Alberta, Canada
Joined: February 18, 2003
KitMaker: 1,728 posts
Armorama: 1,629 posts
Joined: February 18, 2003
KitMaker: 1,728 posts
Armorama: 1,629 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 08:48 AM UTC
Milliput is so 1980's! Magic Sculp is much better, also check into Apoxie Sculpt and ProCreate . Some figure sculptors even mix Kneadatite (Green Stuff) into these for different properties. The only good thing about Milliput is that it sands and feathers nicely - the newer types seem to clog files and sandpaper pretty easily.
Jim
Jim
GeraldOwens
Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Monday, November 28, 2016 - 01:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I want to try making some mantlet covers using milliput but I'm not sure which one to get. They all say that they can be used for modelling. I just want something thats easy to sculpt and has a couple of hours working time. Thanks!
The original green/yellow version was made for plumbing, and is lumpy.
The red terra cotta and the superfine white are better for modeling purposes. Milliputt is quite dense, and a bit like dough rather than clay. It is very sticky, so you must powder your hands or tools with talc, or use water, to prevent it sticking. If the surface of the putty gets wet, it won't adhere to the model, though, so apply it dry, then smooth and blend with wet tools. Milliputt also tends to dry out in the package over time.
Epoxy Sculpt and Magic Sculpt are more forgiving, and are softer when being sculpted.
Knead-a-Tite and Tamiya epoxy putties are more like chewing gum in consistency, and can be made into sharply detailed items like shirt pockets on scale figures, but they are dense and sticky.