Rye Field Models has introduced it's 2nd of three Abrams models. This time a M1A1 Abrams from Operation Desert Storm being that it is the 25th anniversary of that operation in Iraq. I was just a young PFC/Specialist during this conflict, so this build will be near and dear to my heart.
Most of the kit, if not all the kit is what is in their first release of the M1A2 TUSK version. So a lot of the build detail will not be covered so that I don't repeat what was said in that review/build. I will still in progress build shots and cover cover points about the kit.
I asked Darren(CMOT) if I could change this from a build review to a build feature so that way I can show how to correctly load out a ODS era vehicle. I say this because now, I see several ODS models being loaded with the wrong equipment. Modelers want to add gear from today's conflicts to vehicles of the 1990's and it was all different from the MRE's to the body armor we wore back then.
So we know that RFM has produced a good kit, so lets get on with the built and concentrate on the detailing.
As of right now these are two of the decal options that are provided in the kit that i am thinking about representing.
But I am also thinking maybe one of these two tracks I might do, especially the one with the APU mounted to the rear right of the hull.
Here is what I have so far for the build:
I went and glued the claer part of the gunners sight to the rest of the "dog house" for painting purpose. The gunners sight, along with the inside of the "dog house," will be painted NATO Green before installing the cover of the "dog house.":
Main gun:
Wind sensor:
Blow off panels:
So far so good. Comments and critiques are always welcome.
Hosted by Darren Baker
RFM M1A1 Abrams 1991 Operation Desert Storm
Epi
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Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 12:09 PM UTC
Epi
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2016 - 01:04 AM UTC
Went ahead and replaced the handles on the engine deck that where molded on separate parts. Starting to run out of these with all the Abrams I'm building.
One of the three places that needed putty and sanding.
Second place that needed putty and sanding. That "U" notch is only there when the Hawker Batteries or the Internal APU is installed. So when the fuel tank is present, the whole side needed to be sanded smooth.
Final place that needed putty and sanding. Also, the weld detail was replaced with Evergreen rod to make it stand out more.
Added most of the missing detail to the TC's .50 Cal weapon station and loaders 7.62mm gun cradle.
Added missing strap to the TC's hatch.
Added cables to the smoke dischargers.
Added better detail to the main gun mantlet.
Gunners sight.
One of the three places that needed putty and sanding.
Second place that needed putty and sanding. That "U" notch is only there when the Hawker Batteries or the Internal APU is installed. So when the fuel tank is present, the whole side needed to be sanded smooth.
Final place that needed putty and sanding. Also, the weld detail was replaced with Evergreen rod to make it stand out more.
Added most of the missing detail to the TC's .50 Cal weapon station and loaders 7.62mm gun cradle.
Added missing strap to the TC's hatch.
Added cables to the smoke dischargers.
Added better detail to the main gun mantlet.
Gunners sight.
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2016 - 02:05 AM UTC
Great looking work sir.
ivanhoe6
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2016 - 02:34 AM UTC
Very nice looking build so far Pete ! A couple of questions about "extras". I like that you replaced the molded access panel handles, mine never look consistent . Are those After Market or home made ? And the chains on the MG, who made those?
Thanks for undertaking such a detailed build and bringing everybody along for the ride. I will follow closely !
Tom
Thanks for undertaking such a detailed build and bringing everybody along for the ride. I will follow closely !
Tom
Epi
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2016 - 03:04 AM UTC
Ivan,
The handles are left overs from photo etch sets I have collected and the same goes for the chains on the MG's/ I'm not sure what etch set the ones on the .50 Cal came from. Sorry about that friend.
The handles are left overs from photo etch sets I have collected and the same goes for the chains on the MG's/ I'm not sure what etch set the ones on the .50 Cal came from. Sorry about that friend.
cabasner
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2016 - 09:30 AM UTC
Pete,
What do you think about the difference between the Dragon and this RFM kit? I know that the Dragon kit is an AIM, and that the RFM you are working on is a Gulf War version, but that shouldn't make much difference in terms of the detail differences between the two. Having built several Dragon AIMs, I have to think that it would be difficult for any manufacturer to improve upon, or even match, the Dragon kit. What are your thoughts so far? Is the FRM as good as the Dragon kit, not as good, equivalent? It looks to me like the periscope detail on the RFM kit is really not even close to the Dragon kit, but maybe that's just me.
What do you think about the difference between the Dragon and this RFM kit? I know that the Dragon kit is an AIM, and that the RFM you are working on is a Gulf War version, but that shouldn't make much difference in terms of the detail differences between the two. Having built several Dragon AIMs, I have to think that it would be difficult for any manufacturer to improve upon, or even match, the Dragon kit. What are your thoughts so far? Is the FRM as good as the Dragon kit, not as good, equivalent? It looks to me like the periscope detail on the RFM kit is really not even close to the Dragon kit, but maybe that's just me.
Epi
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2016 - 11:41 AM UTC
You know Curt, I'm torn between the two, especially since I helped a little bit on the Dragon kit.
I like the separate engine deck panels on the Dragon kit and that would have been nice to have on the Interior RFM kit. I can say that the RFM kit is a bit easier to put together than the Dragon kit. Detail is the same between the two an both need about the same added detail by the modeler.
It's a very hard toss up.
I like the separate engine deck panels on the Dragon kit and that would have been nice to have on the Interior RFM kit. I can say that the RFM kit is a bit easier to put together than the Dragon kit. Detail is the same between the two an both need about the same added detail by the modeler.
It's a very hard toss up.
elevenbravo87
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2016 - 05:22 PM UTC
Looking Great!
I just got this kit myself and am looking forward to building it. I built Tamiya's M1A1 kit as a tank from Charlie Co. 1-64 Armor 24th ID...so this build will be from a VII Corp unit.
I wish Rye Field, Meng, Dragon, etc. would release a Desert Storm M2A1 Bradley. As a gunner on the M2A1 I would be all over that kit.
I just got this kit myself and am looking forward to building it. I built Tamiya's M1A1 kit as a tank from Charlie Co. 1-64 Armor 24th ID...so this build will be from a VII Corp unit.
I wish Rye Field, Meng, Dragon, etc. would release a Desert Storm M2A1 Bradley. As a gunner on the M2A1 I would be all over that kit.
cabasner
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2016 - 07:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
You know Curt, I'm torn between the two, especially since I helped a little bit on the Dragon kit.
I like the separate engine deck panels on the Dragon kit and that would have been nice to have on the Interior RFM kit. I can say that the RFM kit is a bit easier to put together than the Dragon kit. Detail is the same between the two an both need about the same added detail by the modeler.
It's a very hard toss up.
Thanks for your thoughts, my friend!
TopSmith
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2016 - 08:41 PM UTC
What type of glue were you using on the plastic? I can see some overages but it appears to be thin enough not to show under paint. With older eyes and a not so steady hand, that could be a good thing.
Epi
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Posted: Tuesday, December 20, 2016 - 12:46 PM UTC
Greg, I use Tamiya Thin Liquid Cement.
tankerken6011
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Posted: Thursday, December 22, 2016 - 10:08 AM UTC
You might want to double check your references re that strap on the TCs hatch. Early M1s, including the M1A1s we used in Desert Storm did not have that. In fact, I have never seen one, but I left tanks after DS.
Ken.
Ken.
Bravo1102
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Posted: Thursday, December 22, 2016 - 02:09 PM UTC
Quoted Text
You might want to double check your references re that strap on the TCs hatch. Early M1s, including the M1A1s we used in Desert Storm did not have that. In fact, I have never seen one, but I left tanks after DS.
Ken.
I didn't get on M1s until 1992, but M60s and M113s had them going way back. Funny they'd make a retrograde step like that. I remember the strap being more into the curved lip of the hatch, but that's me.
Epi
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Posted: Saturday, December 24, 2016 - 04:18 AM UTC
Put some paint on the track and painted some of the small details and added the decals. Notice around the main gun mantlet that you can see some of the Forest Green paint under the tan paint. The hatches are don the same way also.
Tamiya and Vallejo paints were used and Vallejo Wash was also used.
Side skirts finished and waiting to be attached. All the ammo cans are painted and waiting for decals and weathering.
Tamiya and Vallejo paints were used and Vallejo Wash was also used.
Side skirts finished and waiting to be attached. All the ammo cans are painted and waiting for decals and weathering.
Thirian24
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Posted: Saturday, December 24, 2016 - 05:26 AM UTC
Wow! That is so nice!
Tojo72
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Posted: Saturday, December 24, 2016 - 06:40 AM UTC
I really like the weathering
cabasner
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Posted: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 - 03:19 PM UTC
Pete, buddy, nicely done!!!
Epi
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Posted: Wednesday, December 28, 2016 - 10:36 AM UTC
Thanks Curt!
By the way, those are 8 duffle bags I have waiting for you to the left of the skirts.
By the way, those are 8 duffle bags I have waiting for you to the left of the skirts.
Removed by original poster on 01/18/17 - 08:36:13 (GMT).
Epi
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Posted: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 02:00 PM UTC
Another update!
I added the tracks and skirts to the left side and started adding gear to the the top of the turret. Need to add buckles to the straps and the empty MRE box will have oil cans in it. Personnel gear such as gas mask will be added near the TC and loaders hatch. Eventually a ratchet strap will secure all the gear to the turret.
Note the old style fuel cans and NOT the new style you see on Abrams and other vehicles today.
Note the older thinner style MRE boxes and NOT the newer style MRE boxes you see today.
I added the tracks and skirts to the left side and started adding gear to the the top of the turret. Need to add buckles to the straps and the empty MRE box will have oil cans in it. Personnel gear such as gas mask will be added near the TC and loaders hatch. Eventually a ratchet strap will secure all the gear to the turret.
Note the old style fuel cans and NOT the new style you see on Abrams and other vehicles today.
Note the older thinner style MRE boxes and NOT the newer style MRE boxes you see today.
Bravo1102
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Posted: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 02:46 PM UTC
Great job. Love how you did the color coding on the jerry cans and the different shades of color duffle bags and ammo cans come in. Well done.
Epi
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Posted: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 02:50 PM UTC
Stephen, I don't remember what color represents what type of fuel, do you?
What Stephen and I are talking about for those who don't know. When the older types of fuel cans were used, we color coded them red and yellow for diesel fuel and MOGAS or regular gas. And we would also stencil on the can "MOGAS."
What Stephen and I are talking about for those who don't know. When the older types of fuel cans were used, we color coded them red and yellow for diesel fuel and MOGAS or regular gas. And we would also stencil on the can "MOGAS."
Thirian24
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Posted: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 05:45 PM UTC
Red was MOGAS yellow was JP-8
This looks killer. Definitely gives me some motivation to finish the one I'm working on.
This looks killer. Definitely gives me some motivation to finish the one I'm working on.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 06:21 PM UTC
Great job Pete. It looks awesome so far. Nice touch with the color-coded fuel cans too. How about flipping some of the MRE boxes over so you have a variety and can see the "Meals Ready To Eat" label on the top as well?
Epi
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Posted: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 07:28 PM UTC
One more update on the review/feature build. A couple of things have been pointed out to me and they will be fixed by next update or turn in. I have to changed all the periscopes to non-anti laser coated periscopes and I added 2 M17 gas mask and they should be M25A1 tank crewman gas masks. I will probably leave the M17 gas mask since I don't think I have any of the other type left over from the Dragon Modern Tank Crew set.
last thing I wanted to add and I am embarrassed to say, is that I screwed up big time on one of the tracks. I don't know how I did it and what I was doing when I did it, BUT I MANAGED TO ATTACHE AND GLUE DOWN ONE TRACK BACKWARDS! ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think it will damage all the road wheels and arms if I try to remove the track and put it on the correct way.
Battle board added to bustle rack and rolled sleeping mats added to antennas:
Howitzer powder can used to carry maps:
Camo net and camo pole bags:
Kevlar helmet, MRE, and M17 Gas Mask:
Kevlar Helmet (socks where used to cover goggles), bino’s, M-16A2:
MRE box used to carry oil cans for Abrams:
last thing I wanted to add and I am embarrassed to say, is that I screwed up big time on one of the tracks. I don't know how I did it and what I was doing when I did it, BUT I MANAGED TO ATTACHE AND GLUE DOWN ONE TRACK BACKWARDS! ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think it will damage all the road wheels and arms if I try to remove the track and put it on the correct way.
Battle board added to bustle rack and rolled sleeping mats added to antennas:
Howitzer powder can used to carry maps:
Camo net and camo pole bags:
Kevlar helmet, MRE, and M17 Gas Mask:
Kevlar Helmet (socks where used to cover goggles), bino’s, M-16A2:
MRE box used to carry oil cans for Abrams: