Hi All,
I picked up a W&N Oil Set and Turpentine. The Oils that came with the Set are Cadmium Yellow Pale Hue, Cadmium Red Deep Hue, French Ultramarine, Viridian Hue (greenish), Yellow Ochre and Burnt Umber.

Would the Turpentine that I bought work with the Oils?


Washing the Stug B

Any other colors that I need to complete the Wash on the Stug B? The Era im attempting is Spring 1943 Poland (per decals).


Marder II and Stug III B are my first 2 builds in 3 decades. DAK is my favorite BUT I had to try German Gray. The Weathering for the Marder II, Im using AK Interactive Afrika Washes and Filters. Still weathering the Marder.


Marder and Stug are painted with Tamiya and Model Master Acrylic.

Hope I uploaded the pics correctly .

Thanks,
John

Turpentine is turpentine- regardless of the source, and was made to thin oils in the first place, so yes your bottle of Grumbacher turpentine should work just fine with W&N oils. But if I could make a suggestion, go to Lowes or Home Depot, and buy a generic quart can of turpentine-- it'll be cheaper in the long run and last longer than that small bottle. Also, you can clean your brushes with reagular laquer thinner, mineral sprit, or paint thinner-- you don't need to use expensive turpentine for that. I actually use laquer thinner mixed with oils to hand paint figures and simulate unpainted wood propellers and surfaces, it speeds the drying time to minutes rather than days. Nice build job on the vehicles by the way-- but if I might make another suggestion-- I'd tone down or eliminate painting the tools and tow cables in silver-- they were likely a gun metal color when new, and a bit rusty when used, if not painted the same color as the vehicle. Not many manufacturers used silver paint for these items.
VR, Russ

Here are the colours I have used so far on my German gray

http://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/251819&page=1

http://www.brisbanemodelbuilder.com/images/stories/24.jpg

http://www.brisbanemodelbuilder.com/images/stories/22.jpg

http://www.brisbanemodelbuilder.com/images/stories/panzer%20pic%2025.jpg

http://www.brisbanemodelbuilder.com/images/stories/panzer%20pic%2026.jpg

At Russ,
Thanks for the reply and your suggestions!! Especially on the tools and cables. I would've kept on painting them the same color on my future builds. Suggestion noted!
I was a little sketchie if a Home Depot brand would work. I had a 50% coupon PLUS extra 30% off (Niece works at Michaels). Looks like I need to get a refund.
Once both afv are completed. Im going to post both of them on the feedback forum. Would like more input for future builds.

At Peter,
I had a feeling that I was missing a color or Two. Thanks for the link on the colors you used. I need to get Paynes Grey with the refund from the Turpentine. Even though you don't show it. Did you use a White color anywhere?
I really like how your panzer iii L is looking! I have the same model but painting it DAK.

Thanks again Gents!
John

Yes mate if you read through my thread I used a lot more yellow in the lower hull and hardly any up top. I traded the yellow for white up top for a bit more of a faded look. There are many colour combinations you could choose like the pic below, I just chose those ones. W&N are great oils!!!

Hi John,

Since you are starting to use oils I think it would be wise that you start using those colors to familiarize yourself with oils and see if you like them. Maybe I would buy a white (titanium or zinc white) and a black (ivory or lamp black).

To simulate dirt you can play with burnt umber and yellow ochre. You can practice on the bottom of the hull to see if you like the straight colors and by playing with different mixes.

In the case that you are going seriously with oils then these are the oil colors that I would recommend you to get:
Naples yellow, VanDyke brown (also known as earth cassel) (it is a very, very dark brown), Paynes gray, lamp or ivory black, titanium or zinc white, Raw Umber and Burnt Sienna. Maybe a warm grey would be useful too.

Check in google what are the differences between lamp black and ivory black, and titanium white and zinc white. You only need one black and one white. I personally like using ivory black and titanium white.

I read on armorama that burnt umber and sienna work nicely for darker rust tones, and when mixed with ochre make light rust.

On a panzer grey Tiger I that currently I am painting I liked using VanDyke brown, Paynes grey, Sepia and a warm grey to change the base color. On the horizontal surface I used the warm grey to simulate dust.

On that same Tiger I I used Gold Ochre and didn't like it. It looks like a recent rust orange color and I had problems toning it down.

If you mix raw umber with white you can get the same color as Ak Interactive Rainmarks for NATO tanks.



The colors of the photo are in the following order: Burnt Umber, Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna and Raw Sienna. As you can see Raw Sienna is very similar to Yellow Ochre and that is the reason I didn't recommend it. On the left are the color straight out from the oil tube and the following columns are mixed with white. The second column is a mix of approximately 1:1 of the raw color with white.



In this image I played with the mix of raw umber with white on a test model I use.

With the Burnt Umber, Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna, Yellow Ochre and Naples Yellow you can simulate different kind of earth tones by using them alone or mixing them among them or with white.

Currently I am learning to mix colors and that is the reason I bought a cheap beginners set of 24 oil colors for 14.60 Euros. The first photo is the result of my first testing that I did yesterday.

I have better oils but didn't like the idea of using them to learn to mix colors and to learn the color theory and practice with them.

I hope what I learn with the cheap set helps me for the rest of my life with the colors.

I learnt my first lesson: mix oil colors with a spatula or something similar instead of the brush (it will build up the amount of oils in the brush and you can end up with almost all your mix in the brush). For the mixing I am using one of those metallic mixers that you can buy from Tamiya or any other brand (on one side is like a small spoon and the other side is like a rowing stick).

Best regards,
Angel

At Angel,
Thanks for the great info!! Im definitely writing down notes!

Thanks,
John

You are welcome John,
Angel