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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
The Sherman's Cast and texture
jackalone72
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California, United States
Joined: November 26, 2003
KitMaker: 104 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 - 12:25 PM UTC
Hey Guys,
Im going to start on my new M4A3 Sherman and I want to know what to use to give it that casting texture.Also I will be getting the Jordi Rubio 75 mm Barrel and Photo Etch parts and Track links.So what on this model would be the best after market products for this kit.What are the flaws to look.This will be my Second AFV (first was M4A1 Sherman I like Shermans) easy to build but very complex and fascinating MACHINES!!




Thanx
thebear
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 - 12:53 PM UTC
You have to remember that the M4A3 were not cast but were made from rolled steel plates...You will have casting on the turret and the front transmission cover which is not bad on the Tamiya kit ,but if you do have to redo a bit of it there are a few tricks I use ...all depending on how rough the casting is supposed to be ...The one I use most is just brush on some liquid cement ..I use Testors mostly ...wait a few minutes and then take a hard bristle brush and dab at it ...this will usually do the trick ..sometimes a second coat of glue is needed...If you go overboard you just have to sand it a bit and it will look fine...for rougher casting add some tamiya putty to the glue and do the same thing .... There are a few problems with this kit ..one the empty sponsons ....just have to fill them with some sheet plastic....two the (and this is with almost all sherman kits on the market is the weld beads on the hull should be raised instead of being sunken (no big deal there .) Third the turret does not have the extra thickened chin on the left side when you look at the tank from the front seen on late turrets...The road wheels have details on one side only but is most noticable on the idler...Tamiya has not added the protective guards over the periscopes and the handles for the hatches are molded solid and need changing....There are lots of choices out there in the P/E and accesories so look around ....If you want a good place to start go take a look at the Formations site ..he'll have you drooling in no time ...
Well this is long winded enough....sorry bout that !!

Rick
oh yeah the address for formations is
http://www.formationsmodels.com/
sgtreef
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 - 11:02 PM UTC
Cause Formations has the Sponson fillers with detail for $7.00!!
Hollowpoint
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Kansas, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
Armorama: 1,797 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 - 12:36 AM UTC
Depending on how much detail you want to add, here's a site with a run-down of kit deficiencies and fixes for the Tamiya M4A3: http://www.usarmymodels.com/MANUFACTURERS/Tamiya/tamiya35122.html

None of these fizes are very difficult to accomplish and the experience will help you with future models.

I agree that filling the open sponsons is a must-fix. Here's alink to a template for making sheet styrene sponson fillers: http://www.archertransfers.com/WEB%20pictures/ShermanFix.pdf

I wouldn't worry too much about adding cast texture to the turret, but you might want to scuff up the final drive housing a bit. Rick gives some good tips above.

Enjoy!
ambrose82
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California, United States
Joined: November 15, 2003
KitMaker: 249 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 - 04:59 AM UTC
Here's a link to a site where the builder seems to use a technique similar to the one thebear suggests. The builder has scoured the model surface with a dremel type tool and then coated the surface in either a glue or plastic solvent like trichloroethelyne. As there are not yet any instructions on the site, your guess is as good as mine.
http://www.knifeandbrush.com/eng/work/work_read.asp?id=9&subject=Surface%20texture
The technique above (putty and glue) is also the topic of one of the AFV features linked here.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/80

I'm currently undertaking a similar texturing project on a cast hull sherman M4A1 (76). So any ideas you come up with will be very useful.
Sentry
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New York, United States
Joined: February 17, 2004
KitMaker: 10 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 - 07:12 AM UTC
Im also working on a M4A3 Sherman. If anyone has any info on winter camouflaging tanks I'd appreciate it. I think im goin to go with a winter theme. Good luck on your sherman Jack!
generalzod
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United States
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 3,172 posts
Armorama: 2,495 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 - 07:40 AM UTC
Jack,if you want some great AM tracks try RHPS They just snap together,no glue really needed on them
ambrose82
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California, United States
Joined: November 15, 2003
KitMaker: 249 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 - 08:33 AM UTC
Sentry,

Shermans were generally coated with white wash as ad hoc winter camo. The US Army did not really plan well for fighting during winter and snow camo was in very short supply. My method for reproducing the rapid wear of this kind of camo was as follows:

1. prime and base coat finished model in oil based paints.
2. do some undercoat weathering (to simulate wear prior to winter)
3. paint on Tamiya acrylic flat white in light coats using small brush strokes to simulate a 1/35 tall person painting the thing by hand with a brush or mop.
4. allow to dry.
5. Using denatured alcohol, swab small amounts onto the camo in areas likely toreceive heavy wear and tear.rub the areas with the swab until the paint leaches away. Be mindful the swabs don't hold much of the removed paint before it starts smearing.
6. Once you're satisfied with the heavy wear, use a toothpick doused in denatured alcohol to "chip away" smaller areas of the camo.

The great thing about the denatured alcohol is it will not affect the undercoat. it will only thin and weaken the alcohol based acrylic camo coat. Here's a couple pics of the finished effect.




Note: Similar results can be achieved by using a masking solution prior to the white wash and then rubbing the masked areas clean once the camo dries.
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