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Big issues with T-55A from Takom
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
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Joined: August 19, 2009
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Posted: Monday, January 09, 2017 - 05:52 AM UTC
thanks
Jennings
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 30, 2016
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Posted: Saturday, February 04, 2017 - 08:29 PM UTC
Don't know if Takom has done it for the T-55, but the T-54B I just received this week has completely re-tooled road wheels.
MikeKeenan
Kildare, Ireland
Joined: February 20, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, February 05, 2017 - 02:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Don't know if Takom has done it for the T-55, but the T-54B I just received this week has completely re-tooled road wheels.
Can you take photos of them? I just wondering what they are like.
Jennings
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 12:43 AM UTC
Jennings
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 01:54 AM UTC
And by the way, HUGE kudos to Takom for re-tooling the T-54B lower hull *and* road wheels. Very few manufacturers would go to that length.
Jennings
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 30, 2016
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Posted: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 08:48 AM UTC
Also forgot to mention, the T-54B also now comes with the correct OMSH treads.
JimboHUN
Budapest, Hungary
Joined: May 07, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 11:23 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Jennings,
This seems to be the same to me...
Regards,
Adam
Removed by original poster on 02/08/17 - 07:10:27 (GMT).
Jennings
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 30, 2016
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Posted: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 08:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
Hi Jennings,
This seems to be the same to me...
Regards,
Adam
Not sure what you mean? The road wheels and rubber are completely different from the original release.
nng-nng
Bayern, Germany
Joined: October 22, 2013
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Posted: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 10:47 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Not sure what you mean? The road wheels and rubber are completely different from the original release.
Err... No.
I have both kits, the rubber rims (Sprue B) and Sprue V ("Starfish wheels") are included in both. Sprue D is new, because it's a different variant/earlier model ("Full Spider wheels", at least that are the designations for the T-34. check here: http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/t3485bg_2.html)
This fixes none of the problems mentioned before, as it still uses the same rubber rims. You still have to fill the gap and the steel rim is as unpronounced as it was before.
Jennings
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 30, 2016
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Posted: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 - 12:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextNot sure what you mean? The road wheels and rubber are completely different from the original release.
Err... No.
I have both kits, the rubber rims (Sprue B) and Sprue V ("Starfish wheels") are included in both. Sprue D is new, because it's a different variant/earlier model ("Full Spider wheels", at least that are the designations for the T-34. check here: http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/t3485bg_2.html)
This fixes none of the problems mentioned before, as it still uses the same rubber rims. You still have to fill the gap and the steel rim is as unpronounced as it was before.
You sure? The photos I saw of the original rubber rims had a distinct section of steel rim visible that I don't see on the ones in my T-54B kit.
nng-nng
Bayern, Germany
Joined: October 22, 2013
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Posted: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 - 04:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You sure? The photos I saw of the original rubber rims had a distinct section of steel rim visible that I don't see on the ones in my T-54B kit.
Yes, I'm sure. The sprue number for the rims is the same. T-54B, T-55A, T-55AMV, T-55AM2B, Type 69-II, doesn't matter, it's always the same sprue. Even your sprue has it:
TAKOM B
2015/2041
00-00163B
If they had changed anything the numbers would be different, as seen on the new hull for the T-54B.
Jennings
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 30, 2016
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Posted: Friday, February 10, 2017 - 03:13 AM UTC
Good thing I kept the Tamiya T-55A kit then...
MichalBT
Województwo Kieleckie, Poland
Joined: July 03, 2002
KitMaker: 326 posts
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Joined: July 03, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, April 16, 2017 - 04:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Let the plastic dry, don´t glue part numbers A10 and A11 on it. You´ll need to sand down the complete seam lines using a 3mm bolt and nut, fixed into a power drill. The result compared to Tamiya´s T-55 wheel.
Can You explain me once again what I should do to correct wheels? If I follow Nenad's suggestions and replace inner rubber with outer one- the gap between wheels becomes very short
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
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Posted: Monday, April 17, 2017 - 10:32 AM UTC
Michal;
I am currently building the Takom T-55A kit - with ambition to make it into the pictured "Marina" tank on the box-top.
I and a couple others in our local club are also building the Takom T-55AMV and T-55AM kits - as a sort of group "55 Type-Build" project.
Naturally, the road wheel discussion calls us, too, as we have a bunch of those wheels to work on.
Our conclusion: Build the wheels up per the instructions, COMPLETE with "rubber tires", before painting them. To fix the seam that results between the rim and the "tire" piece; just fill and sand inside the rims to remove that seam.
Actually, we found that if you use a liberal application of medium cement around the inside of that tire at the point / area where it meets the rim outer edge (the place you get the seam at...) and you press the tire onto the rim firmly, the cement will fill the seam void and form a small raised bead around the inside of the tire / rim instead of leaving a crack to be filled... And after it is fully-dried, you can easily sand that little bead down to get a pretty smooth inside rim face.
It's a bit tedious, but you keep the required wheel-pair geometry and width and get a ready-to-paint assembled wheel. And you only need to do the outer wheels that are visible...
We also carefully inspected and argued about whether there was sufficient "steel rim" molded on around the rubber tire to look like the scale model of the real thing... We concluded that YES, it actually will look pretty good after masking and painting. (And PS, we all agree that masking and painting the assembled tires-on-rims is actually no different from masking and painting about any other model road-wheels - the separate tire doesn't actually ease the painting, as while you could argue that painting it separately is easier... you would still have to mask that edge of the steel rim faintly molded onto those rubber tires! That, and you would have to ensure that you did NOT get paint on the surfaces of the rim that those tires have to squeeze over when you assemble them...)
So just put them all together, use a liberal dose of cement to fill those little join-seams, clean those seams up with your sharp #11 knife-tip and sand a little, and mask and paint! It WILL LOOK GOOD!
Cheers! Bob
PS: There are those other detail flaws folks have mentioned... Some are fairly easy to address by simple good modeling work. A couple others may require more thinking and/or just plain accepting the reality as it is!
I am currently building the Takom T-55A kit - with ambition to make it into the pictured "Marina" tank on the box-top.
I and a couple others in our local club are also building the Takom T-55AMV and T-55AM kits - as a sort of group "55 Type-Build" project.
Naturally, the road wheel discussion calls us, too, as we have a bunch of those wheels to work on.
Our conclusion: Build the wheels up per the instructions, COMPLETE with "rubber tires", before painting them. To fix the seam that results between the rim and the "tire" piece; just fill and sand inside the rims to remove that seam.
Actually, we found that if you use a liberal application of medium cement around the inside of that tire at the point / area where it meets the rim outer edge (the place you get the seam at...) and you press the tire onto the rim firmly, the cement will fill the seam void and form a small raised bead around the inside of the tire / rim instead of leaving a crack to be filled... And after it is fully-dried, you can easily sand that little bead down to get a pretty smooth inside rim face.
It's a bit tedious, but you keep the required wheel-pair geometry and width and get a ready-to-paint assembled wheel. And you only need to do the outer wheels that are visible...
We also carefully inspected and argued about whether there was sufficient "steel rim" molded on around the rubber tire to look like the scale model of the real thing... We concluded that YES, it actually will look pretty good after masking and painting. (And PS, we all agree that masking and painting the assembled tires-on-rims is actually no different from masking and painting about any other model road-wheels - the separate tire doesn't actually ease the painting, as while you could argue that painting it separately is easier... you would still have to mask that edge of the steel rim faintly molded onto those rubber tires! That, and you would have to ensure that you did NOT get paint on the surfaces of the rim that those tires have to squeeze over when you assemble them...)
So just put them all together, use a liberal dose of cement to fill those little join-seams, clean those seams up with your sharp #11 knife-tip and sand a little, and mask and paint! It WILL LOOK GOOD!
Cheers! Bob
PS: There are those other detail flaws folks have mentioned... Some are fairly easy to address by simple good modeling work. A couple others may require more thinking and/or just plain accepting the reality as it is!
MichalBT
Województwo Kieleckie, Poland
Joined: July 03, 2002
KitMaker: 326 posts
Armorama: 275 posts
Joined: July 03, 2002
KitMaker: 326 posts
Armorama: 275 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 09:47 PM UTC
Bob,
Can You send a photo of Your T-55 wheel?
Regards,
Michal
BTW: If I remember right- Marina was Polish produced T-55. Am I right?
Can You send a photo of Your T-55 wheel?
Regards,
Michal
BTW: If I remember right- Marina was Polish produced T-55. Am I right?
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 10:28 PM UTC
Michal
Hi! I'll attempt to get a wheel photo posted - no promise of results, as between comp-tech issues here at home and a pile of other things... But I WILL get something!
Maybe send me a PM w/ an e-mail addy and / or, if you are in the USA, I maybe can shoot you a pic off my phone cam, if you can receive pic messages? If so... send a PM w your phone #.
I understand from the info from a few other, much-more-informed posters that the "Marina" is / was indeed a Polish-production 55... Tim Roberts posted me a GREAT set of pics showing the rear engine deck of a Polish 55, which may allow me to modify those kit-parts to better capture some of that reality... PS: TR put a link in his postings above HERE, so all can access that download.
My intent is to do what is fairly reasonable to push, shove, torture that Takom 55A kit into a reasonable "Marina". I'm NOT a rivet-counter, and will accept some amount of slop and error - I'll fix what I can and sort of try to accept and look past other stuff on it. In the main, I think the kit is great, and with some BIG help from Mike Rennie for some correct tracks, and great info on some hull detail fixes by others, - and getting or making some new decals to correct Takom's gross error therein - I have hopes of getting fairly close!
Cheers! Bob
Hi! I'll attempt to get a wheel photo posted - no promise of results, as between comp-tech issues here at home and a pile of other things... But I WILL get something!
Maybe send me a PM w/ an e-mail addy and / or, if you are in the USA, I maybe can shoot you a pic off my phone cam, if you can receive pic messages? If so... send a PM w your phone #.
I understand from the info from a few other, much-more-informed posters that the "Marina" is / was indeed a Polish-production 55... Tim Roberts posted me a GREAT set of pics showing the rear engine deck of a Polish 55, which may allow me to modify those kit-parts to better capture some of that reality... PS: TR put a link in his postings above HERE, so all can access that download.
My intent is to do what is fairly reasonable to push, shove, torture that Takom 55A kit into a reasonable "Marina". I'm NOT a rivet-counter, and will accept some amount of slop and error - I'll fix what I can and sort of try to accept and look past other stuff on it. In the main, I think the kit is great, and with some BIG help from Mike Rennie for some correct tracks, and great info on some hull detail fixes by others, - and getting or making some new decals to correct Takom's gross error therein - I have hopes of getting fairly close!
Cheers! Bob
MichalBT
Województwo Kieleckie, Poland
Joined: July 03, 2002
KitMaker: 326 posts
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Joined: July 03, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 12:03 AM UTC
Bob,
I'm in Poland. I'll send You a message offline with my e-mail address.
I've already modified one Takom kit (T-55AM2 into Polish Merida). In this kit I used spare Tamiya wheels. But I don't have any left for next Takom kit which will be modified into T-54AM.
Engine deck for Merida was modified from Czech to Polish version, too. For T-54AM I'll use engine deck from excellent MR Modellbau conversion.
At the moment I'm applying oils on Merida tank- You can see current status of construction underneath.
Regards,
Michal
I'm in Poland. I'll send You a message offline with my e-mail address.
I've already modified one Takom kit (T-55AM2 into Polish Merida). In this kit I used spare Tamiya wheels. But I don't have any left for next Takom kit which will be modified into T-54AM.
Engine deck for Merida was modified from Czech to Polish version, too. For T-54AM I'll use engine deck from excellent MR Modellbau conversion.
At the moment I'm applying oils on Merida tank- You can see current status of construction underneath.
Regards,
Michal
Domagoj
Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: June 04, 2016
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Posted: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 12:36 AM UTC
I have noticed same problem as Nenad did...some issues are easy to correct, but in my opinion biggest issue are instructions itself.
They are very confusing.
You can make either Soviet, Polish or Czech model, parts are there, but there is absolutelly no mention which parts are for which version! Real nightmare!
I have never seen such bad instructions in my 30 years of modeling cereer!
One not familiar with versions and options will be lost!
As Nenad said they have provided "wrong" track links, but at least you get 13 teeth sprockets
Among other (hard to correct things) are fuel tanks...they are to square.
They are very confusing.
You can make either Soviet, Polish or Czech model, parts are there, but there is absolutelly no mention which parts are for which version! Real nightmare!
I have never seen such bad instructions in my 30 years of modeling cereer!
One not familiar with versions and options will be lost!
As Nenad said they have provided "wrong" track links, but at least you get 13 teeth sprockets
Among other (hard to correct things) are fuel tanks...they are to square.
PatriotaModels
Bayern, Germany
Joined: October 25, 2011
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Joined: October 25, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 09:59 PM UTC
Hi guys, I´m back again. I´ve read all of you posts and I have to say it is a shame that Takom doesn´t response to our complains. Now they decided to offer a set of correct T-55 track links. Of course you will have to buy them seperately. I decided to go on with fabulous track links from Trumpeter.
After assembling priming was the next step. Therefore I used ALCLAD II grey primer and microfiller. An aggressive primer, but great stuff because it adheres extreme well on the plastic. For me the only choice. After priming was finnished and the model was left to dry for some 24 hours (although ALCLAD II primer is dry after 1 minute), the complete model was sprayed with my Yugoslav SMB color using Revell Aqua Color #362 and #45 (2:1 mix ratio). The track links were sprayed with a mix of Revell #78 tank grey + #7 glossy black + 91 iron/steel ( 10:5:3 mix ratio). So here´s the result.
And by the way, I had to glue some additional stripes on the inner side of the right rear engine cover, because Takom also missed this detail to.
After assembling priming was the next step. Therefore I used ALCLAD II grey primer and microfiller. An aggressive primer, but great stuff because it adheres extreme well on the plastic. For me the only choice. After priming was finnished and the model was left to dry for some 24 hours (although ALCLAD II primer is dry after 1 minute), the complete model was sprayed with my Yugoslav SMB color using Revell Aqua Color #362 and #45 (2:1 mix ratio). The track links were sprayed with a mix of Revell #78 tank grey + #7 glossy black + 91 iron/steel ( 10:5:3 mix ratio). So here´s the result.
And by the way, I had to glue some additional stripes on the inner side of the right rear engine cover, because Takom also missed this detail to.
spartan01
California, United States
Joined: December 25, 2011
KitMaker: 314 posts
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Joined: December 25, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 10:51 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Nenad,
I appreciate your comments and they should help everyone with building the kit.
However, I would definitely not consider these "big issues". The tracks are annoying for sure, and modellers should not be forced to buy something additional over and above the kit in order to build a correct model, but the correct tracks are readily available from numerous aftermarket producers, in virtually all price ranges and materials (plastic, resin, white metal) so this is an easy problem to solve. Would you complain if they included the correct tracks, but in one piece flexible vinyl/plastic?
As for the other issues noted, moving a stowage box and grab handles should be well within the capabilities of every modeller. And modifying or rebuilding the lift hooks is pretty simple as well. Definitely should not be considered big issues.
I've been building kits for 25 years and if these are the types of things we've found to complain about, then I'll take it compared to what we had even 10 years ago. If you or anyone else can point me in the direction of the perfect model, please tell me because I'd like to get one.
And as for incorrect decals and engine, well, every manufacturer out there has included wrong decals or decals for versions that couldn't be built from the kit, so again, not a major issue from my perspective.
I'm not making excuses for Takom, but are we modellers, or simply assemblers? Model companies have to find the balance between accuracy, cost, schedule and everything else, just like any business. And I can guarantee you that for every model manufacturer, 90% is good enough, because to reach 100% would require too much time and money, in which case we would complain about the cost and the delays, instead of the minor problems of the kit that was produced.
Just my 2 cents....
Jon
Totally agree 2mm no big deal
PatriotaModels
Bayern, Germany
Joined: October 25, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 07:26 PM UTC
JSSVIII
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: March 28, 2007
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Posted: Friday, September 29, 2017 - 03:29 AM UTC
Coming along nicely Nenad.
m4sherman
Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
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Posted: Friday, September 29, 2017 - 04:56 AM UTC
Looking good.
babaoriley
California, United States
Joined: June 23, 2017
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Joined: June 23, 2017
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Posted: Friday, September 29, 2017 - 11:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
As one who has been building for over 50 years I am always a bit amused by those who complain about todays kits. While it may be true that you don't always get what you expect, my feeling is that one should be happy/grateful for the quality and quantity of releases offered by the many manufactures today. This is not to say that all kits are great or that there are no dogs out there but, I am personally thrilled by the choices that I now have. Choices that I could not imagine even 20 years ago let alone when I first started building in the 60's. As far as I am concerned there are simply too many kits out there waiting to be built without me obsessing over every detail that a manufacturer has gotten wrong or omitted. I don't fault those who do agonize/obsess over errors/omissions, it's just that I don't get all worked up over them. Nothing in life is perfect, why should we expect hour chosen hobby to be any different?
In the sense of comparing today's amazing kits to the clunky, grossly inaccurate kits of thirty or forty years ago I tend to agree with you. When someone complains that the tow cable supplied with a kit is too thick, I can't help but remember when the tow cables were molded into the hull along with all the tools.
However a kit coming with the wrong tracks does strike me as a more serious issue, and considering the price of today's A-list kits an error of that magnitude is a bit much. That is something Takom should correct. I'd also rate incorrect instructions as something that should not happen and should be fixed in future production.
But moving some grab handles and a storage box is another matter, that's minor enough not to be worth mentioning. That should even be worth points in a competition--"Hey, he even fixed the grab handles, lets give him the bronze medal". As someone else mentioned, isn't that the sort of thing modelers (as opposed to assemblers) take pleasure in?