I decided to get away from the M4's for a while now that the Patherized M4's are done.

After reading all the comments in previous builds of the Panther F, and the problems with the Panther tracks when used with the steel road wheels, I decided to use the sprockets from an old Panther II and Fruil Tiger II transport tracks.

By adding a .060 spacer inside the sprockets they fit the standard Panther final drives on the DML kit. However, as these sprockets are wider, and slightly larger, the small support roller will not fit.

I know this is a What If tank, but is that roller needed when using the standard Panther final drives? Should I leave it off, or adapt the part and make it work?

On the turret I intended to remove all the details and make a plain top. I am going to add some add on armor to the turret front sides to beef up the armor. I had some trouble with the turret rear. If the left side lined up, the right did not. I ended up with it out of line. XXXX!

To hide the goof I am now going to add on a roof reinforcing plate and hide the troubles with some welds. Oddly, the front plate fit almost perfectly.

Any ideas and suggestions are welcome.

The drive sprockets were an easy fit, but the idler wheels were a pain in the rump. On the newer Panther F hull if I lined up the idlers to the dual center road wheels the idlers rubbed on the inner road wheel. I tested the transport tracks on the stock Panther idlers and they are too wide. After going over the options I decided to use the Panther II idlers, modified to a standard Panther idler configuration.

The inner most wheel on the Panther II idler was discarded after cutting off the locating tube. On the outer wheel I removed the locating ring and sanded it flat. On the center wheel I cut the locating ring down to .030 thickness, using a scrap of .030 sheet as a cutting guide. Panther F kit part A32 was used as a spacer, with the raised cone cut off. I pressed in a short piece of metal tube into the locating tube from the inner wheel and glued it into the center wheel, after adjusting the exposed length to center the new idler wheel to the road wheels.

And the finished idlers. I offset the spokes for effect. Any adjustments needed will be made once I get the tracks. Maybe not how the Germans did it in WWII, but it looks good to me.

In spite of having a friends 10 month old coming over to help I managed to get the turret applique sorted out and welds added. I considered leaving off the periscopes and going with a direct sight, but the bulges more or less make the turret.

I wanted to upgrade the armor because the idea is to show a Panther F prowling the DMZ in Northern Germany of 1946. By that time the 90mm of the Pershing is a threat so thicker side armor would be desirable. A thicker roof help protect against artillery fire, and covers all the holes.

The SturmPanther II by Darklen has some good ideas that I am going to borrow. I like the add on side armor, and the covers over the engine deck. I might try some thick side skirts as well.

Very cool. I'll be following along!

Dustin, thanks for looking.

The turret is pretty much done except for the cupola. It needs some filling and sanding. I replaced all the turret top details on the new top plate, but left off the three wing things and the foliage loops.

On the right side I made two old shell strikes. More work is needed on the side strike.

That tube inside the turret that can be seen in pics 4 and 5 is glued to the back of the gun mount. It will be used to set the gun angle using scrap glued inside the turret as a bump stop. I have a metal barrel on order.

Work on the hull starts after work tomorrow, if I have any energy left.

It's slow going. Not much free time after a 12 hours health killer shift. I got some applique armor on the hull sides, and cut the front plate off the extra late G hull that comes with the F kit as added front armor. I know it is a little thin, but it has the advantage of being the right size, with the right hole and cut out.

It looks crooked because it is warped. Once I get the bow mg on I'll glue it on and add some rivets.

The tracks came in today, but the gun seems to be in a dug-out canoe somewhere on the Pacific.

I decided to make a new front plate using the cut off plate as a guide. I also made a plate for the lower front. Looking at the pictures I think I might have to move a few rivets.

On the rear all the parts are loose. I want to paint the insides a dark color, and all my paint stuff is packed up. On the front I left off the barrel clamp. I plan on making it look like the holder was shot off, maybe.

I decided to make new mufflers. Short lengths of tubing with ends made using a paper punch. The punch outs are slightly larger than the tube making a seam. Out pipes are from the kit, and the angles at the base are elbow sprues cut to size. Just a few more details and the base hull will be wrapped up.

I plan on making some replacement stowage boxes. Maybe using old ammo boxes.

Working on the side skirts. The plates are .030 (.75mm) by 25mm by 33mm. I'm still debating on how to secure them to the support rail. The rail is .030 by .156 (.075 by 4.0mm).

I got the cupola ready to install. The hatch is loose, I'm thinking of having the commander down inside using periscopes. After a google search I'm still unclear on how the hatch is hinged. No detail is clear in any of the pics of the turret.

I glued .060 angle to the top of the skirt plates, then drilled through with a .042 drill. On the right side I drilled holes into the support strip using each plate as a guide. On the left side I taped all the plates together, then drilled the holes. With the holes drilled in the supports I glued short bits of .040 rod in the skirts, and then a large bolt over the outside. The rods are just to help locate and hold the skirts on the supports.

As I am leaving the #4 skirt off I glued some rod in the holes drilled in the supports. I will add damage to the support to show the hits to the hull.

I'm really enjoying the added armor. Keep up the great work

Thank you Dustin. I was thinking I should have made the side applique a little thicker, but I'm happy with it.

Not much progress, except for the tracks. A test fit of the right side track shows that I will need to add a track support roller, or do something about the arm travel spring stop thing. The tracks work much better than I expected actually. I still need to add the small jumper links to the inside track run.

Work on the engine deck is on hold until I paint the inner grills and fans. I need to dig out the paint supplies, and that involves finishing a work bench and running some wiring. All that was on hold for the holidays, and having to work. Even notice how having to earn a living takes up all your free time?

On the right side I made a shell hit that goes thru the skirt armor support. It still needs a little tweeking. Up top I mangled the gun barrel holder. And I still need to move the rivets on the lower hull front to clear the tow eyes.

I got the right track done (except the small links) for a test fit. The idler wheel mounts were sloppy, so I glued a small bit of plastic on the shaft to tighten it up.

The track is a fraction tight on sprockets. On the right side I thinned out the inside of the teeth. I will have to do the left side also.

I see a few things

Great job so far! I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

Colin, thanks for looking in.

After a day of working with tiny parts I have the tracks ready to go. It took 86 links for each side. Then I made some fittings to hold tracks on the hull and turret sides. Once the base coat is on I will glue the spare tracks in place, minus the once knocked off by the shell strike.

I fouled up the shell hit on the turret side, so made a new one, that I also messed up. It took a little filler to make the hit look like I wanted. After sanding the filler smooth I applied a very thin layer of super glue, a thin formula I got at Hobby Lobby of all places. The super glue will protect the filler from any styrene glue, and helps stop shrinkage.

This is a very interesting of a what if Panther in 1946.

Jason, it's been a fun project.

My friend was over with her now 11 month old, and after taking my Father out shopping there was no time to get any work done. I am still unsure of what tools to put on. Use the Panther style or go more with the King Tiger way, or none at all. And what about the rear stowage bins? I still haven't had enlightenment.

While contemplating what to do with the tank I had an idea. I laid out a few versions, and decided this layout might work. The Pz IV hull is from a Brumbar and is for size. I now have a Pz IV J on the way that if all goes as planned will be my second 1946 tank.

I did have a Tiger I concept in mind, but it was too large for the new idea. I wanted to stick will what more or less would have been available. I figured the German Army would standardize on the new Panther F as the main combat tank and use the old Pz IV and Tiger I hulls for specialty armor.

Testing showed there was no room for a support roller behind the drive sprockets, and moving it out would block the first road wheel, so I made skids from cut down M4 track skids.

The front hatch support brackets didn't make any sense so I made some wood plates. And started the tool brackets. I'll probably leave the tools off and just put on the mounting fittings.

So, I've been waiting for a 75mm barrel for the Panther F from Voyager, and got a little tired of waiting. On a whim I looked at an RB barrel for the Elephant I picked up a while back. It looked the same at the base as the F barrel, and I couldn't help myself!

Now, I have a Panther F 88mm gun tank! I'm thinking it would be a short recoil 88 built on the same recoil system as the 75mm gun. Perhaps not as powerful as the original 88, but with a little more punch than the 75, and the advantage of the better HE rounds from the 88. Thankfully this is a what if!

I had to add a weight, in this case a old nut, to counter balance the metal barrel. I thought there was a problem with the upper hull being warped, but it was the added armor over the drivers area. I also had to shave down the edge of the applique armor where the turret went over the side as it was rubbing.

The Panther F barrel finally came, so I got it glued in. I figured I can use the 88 on another project. I thought the 75 looked better.

I have been working on the tool holders, and made up a new cleaning rods tube using some tubing. Still a lot to do.

Looking great.

Thanks Dustin.

Starting on the PIV. I remembered why I liked the PZIII better. Fewer road wheels! I opted for the DML kit for the separate fenders, but I really like the Tamiya suspension. DML is a little fiddly. Anyhow, the base is about done, and it's time to get the WI going. I am not planning on a turreted tank, but a troop carrier or engineer tank. Still contemplating. Either way it should be a fun build.

I roughed up the road wheels to show worn rubber. I've seen a dremel used, and files, but I like to use the edge of a sanding block with course wet/dry sand paper, then smoothed down.

I finished the basic assembly of the PIV hull. The gap between the upper and lower hulls at the rear bolt strips is about .020. I can't be 100% sure I used the right rear plate on the upper hull, and since everything else fitted well (not perfect) rather than fight this one I will be putting on a stowage rack to cover this problem.

Is this common to this series of Dragon Panzer IV kits, or did I foul up somewhere?