2S7M almost done, Rhino is waiting for a camo and since Luna-M did not arrive yet, I've started another models. Not sure why I've always liked them, but honestly I was not aware how small they are. I would like to do a UNPROFOR version but I know that only one vehicle was used in this camo, so it will kind of "What if" scenario. Base will be located somewhere in former Yugoslavia. Village road, old wooden fence, some trees, maybe piece of brick building. We will see.
Models are quite old, so details are rather bulky, however metal barrels are in both kits as well as small PE fret. I've ordered eduard parts and I'm thinking about Friul tracks but they are quite expensive, a lot more then models themselves.
Quite big boxes, much too big taking content into consideration
And very small hull, almost like 1:72 scale:
First flaws. To keep level of suspension I had to use some CA glue:
I did suspension and wheels, all of this is so small:
I'm thinking what put on base, especially that there will be plenty of space:
I've started the fence from balsa:
And small gate:
This is the plan for a base:
I was planning to use such stones for pavement:
I used plaster to shape a road:
And then I've started to glue blocks:
To do this piece it took around 40-50 minutes
I did a fence, I will have to correct some things, but it will look like this:
And first dry fit:
[/quote]
Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
[W] CVRTs Scorpion & Scimitar - AFVClub 1:35.
Gelerth
Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2017 - 07:14 PM UTC
Cookiescool2
Georgia, United States
Joined: May 09, 2014
KitMaker: 273 posts
Armorama: 270 posts
Joined: May 09, 2014
KitMaker: 273 posts
Armorama: 270 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2017 - 08:30 PM UTC
Looks like you're off to a great start!
Also AFV Club recently released their only workable plastic tracks for the CVRT series, but I'm not sure if the links would be correct for the period you're diorama is placed in, but they should be cheaper than Friuls
Also AFV Club recently released their only workable plastic tracks for the CVRT series, but I'm not sure if the links would be correct for the period you're diorama is placed in, but they should be cheaper than Friuls
Gelerth
Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2017 - 09:22 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thank you for the info. I've ordered them in Hobbyeasy as there are not available in Poland. I've noticed that there are two versions early & late, I'm not sure what's the difference and when they were used so I took an early ones. And yes, it's true, they are much cheaper then Friuls, set of two was cost me only a little bit then one friul. I hope they will fit and won't cause any issues. Thanks again.Looks like you're off to a great start!
Also AFV Club recently released their only workable plastic tracks for the CVRT series, but I'm not sure if the links would be correct for the period you're diorama is placed in, but they should be cheaper than Friuls
Kallisti
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: July 17, 2012
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Joined: July 17, 2012
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 03:56 AM UTC
Sadly the AFV tracks are not very good, the Fruil tracks are the best option and worth the money IMO. I've built several of these kits and converted one to the more modern bar-armoured vehicles from Iraq
Posted: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 04:50 AM UTC
Used them, not so good stick to fruls.
Gelerth
Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 11:43 AM UTC
Ok. Thank you guys for the info, unfortunately it's too late now. Order was placed and in transfer now.
If I will be able to sold them in reasonable price I will go for the friuls, if not I will have to use AFV tracks.
If I will be able to sold them in reasonable price I will go for the friuls, if not I will have to use AFV tracks.
Gelerth
Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 12:54 AM UTC
Cobblestone almost done
Painted with very thinned XF-20 and XF-19
-
Then gloss, some earth and dirt and then thinned PVA
The rest was done from plaster and sand
I did a piece of wall to use it as a piece of pigpen or cow barn
And Ive painted fence, first with some grey then with some oils
-
Painted with very thinned XF-20 and XF-19
-
Then gloss, some earth and dirt and then thinned PVA
The rest was done from plaster and sand
I did a piece of wall to use it as a piece of pigpen or cow barn
And Ive painted fence, first with some grey then with some oils
-
Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 09:46 PM UTC
I'll be interested to hear how you cope with shaping the exhaust shield. For some reason I can't begin to imagine, AFV Club made their photo-etch with stainless spring steel rather than brass! It simply refuses to bend into shape.
I tried annealing, which, being a ferrous metal, did not produce any noticeable difference, and the piece sheds heat too fast for quenching.
I tried annealing, which, being a ferrous metal, did not produce any noticeable difference, and the piece sheds heat too fast for quenching.
DKdent
Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany
Joined: November 27, 2005
KitMaker: 182 posts
Armorama: 180 posts
Joined: November 27, 2005
KitMaker: 182 posts
Armorama: 180 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 07, 2017 - 12:58 AM UTC
Przemek,
a very nice start. I love the subtle shading of the fence.
Best regards
Dennis
a very nice start. I love the subtle shading of the fence.
Best regards
Dennis
Gelerth
Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Monday, January 09, 2017 - 11:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thank you for the info. I was not aware that it is made of such "not cooperating" piece of metal ;-)I'll be interested to hear how you cope with shaping the exhaust shield. For some reason I can't begin to imagine, AFV Club made their photo-etch with stainless spring steel rather than brass! It simply refuses to bend into shape.
I tried annealing, which, being a ferrous metal, did not produce any noticeable difference, and the piece sheds heat too fast for quenching.
Quoted Text
Thank you.Przemek,
a very nice start. I love the subtle shading of the fence.
Best regards
Dennis
Posted: Monday, January 09, 2017 - 04:34 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThank you for the info. I was not aware that it is made of such "not cooperating" piece of metal ;-)I'll be interested to hear how you cope with shaping the exhaust shield. For some reason I can't begin to imagine, AFV Club made their photo-etch with stainless spring steel rather than brass! It simply refuses to bend into shape.
I tried annealing, which, being a ferrous metal, did not produce any noticeable difference, and the piece sheds heat too fast for quenching.
Quoted TextThank you.Przemek,
a very nice start. I love the subtle shading of the fence.
Best regards
Dennis
Eventually the way I was able to coerce the heat shield into shape was to tape it to a screw driver handle (smaller than the 5mm called for) and then wrapped it tightly with copper wire. Unwrap, repeat until it's the right shape and tweak with needlenose pliers. Good luck!
Keef1648
South Carolina, United States
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Monday, January 09, 2017 - 06:18 PM UTC
I didn't have any issues with AFV'S track links at all.
Rolled the heat shield smaller than needed and gently super glued top run first then bottom, situated and in place with first attempt.
Radiator deck on the Scimitar is not bolted down like the Scorpion.
Devil is in the details.
Keith
Rolled the heat shield smaller than needed and gently super glued top run first then bottom, situated and in place with first attempt.
Radiator deck on the Scimitar is not bolted down like the Scorpion.
Devil is in the details.
Keith
Posted: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 06:12 PM UTC
ptruhe
Texas, United States
Joined: March 05, 2003
KitMaker: 2,092 posts
Armorama: 1,607 posts
Joined: March 05, 2003
KitMaker: 2,092 posts
Armorama: 1,607 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 18, 2017 - 05:10 AM UTC
Scorpion out of service by time of the Yugoslav deployments. Some converted to Sabre.
Gelerth
Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 18, 2017 - 02:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thank you Keith for the tips.I didn't have any issues with AFV'S track links at all.
Rolled the heat shield smaller than needed and gently super glued top run first then bottom, situated and in place with first attempt.
Radiator deck on the Scimitar is not bolted down like the Scorpion.
Devil is in the details.
Keith
Quoted Text
I hope I won't have such issueas. Mine tracks should arrive any day now.For anyone interested, you can see my notes on the AFV indy link tracks here.
Quoted Text
Base I'm building will be rather "What if?" category but thank you for the info. I was not aware of it.Scorpion out of service by time of the Yugoslav deployments. Some converted to Sabre.
Gelerth
Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 02:59 PM UTC
I was wondering how to set up the vehicles and three ideas poped up.
First as normal drive column:
Rest:
And road block:
In the meantime I started adding metal parts.
One side:
The other one:
Turret:
Dry fit:
And lamps. There were made as full, so I had to mill them. Next I will add a bulb and lamp glass.
First as normal drive column:
Rest:
And road block:
In the meantime I started adding metal parts.
One side:
The other one:
Turret:
Dry fit:
And lamps. There were made as full, so I had to mill them. Next I will add a bulb and lamp glass.
ptruhe
Texas, United States
Joined: March 05, 2003
KitMaker: 2,092 posts
Armorama: 1,607 posts
Joined: March 05, 2003
KitMaker: 2,092 posts
Armorama: 1,607 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 07:08 PM UTC
Some of the pictures aren't showing. If at rest in a combat area they might be in a herringbone pattern. Nose out at 45 degrees in opposite directions.
Gelerth
Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 08:00 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Ohh, sorry. I've corrected the Google Photos links. Should be ok now. Some of the pictures aren't showing. If at rest in a combat area they might be in a herringbone pattern. Nose out at 45 degrees in opposite directions.
Thanks for the tip, I will try to fit it to the base way you mentioned.
Gelerth
Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 - 07:25 PM UTC
Small update. PE parts almost ready, some minor stuff like headlamps covers or wiring.
So far I've got this:
Additionally I drilled a little bit a Scorpio barrel, drilled some holes for antennas and glued tissue for the stash cover:
So far I've got this:
Additionally I drilled a little bit a Scorpio barrel, drilled some holes for antennas and glued tissue for the stash cover: