AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Which paint or paint brand is best for which
TopSmith
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Posted: Friday, January 13, 2017 - 02:58 AM UTC
There was a post that peaked my interest in the life color post. Different brands and paint types work best in different situations. Which brand and type of paint have you found over time to work best for a certain application? This could be helpful for those who are are not happy with the results they are getting or going to try something new. I will assume you use the manufacturers thinner unless noted.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, January 13, 2017 - 03:33 AM UTC
Quoted Text
There was a post that peaked my interest in the life color post. Different brands and paint types work best in different situations. Which brand and type of paint have you found over time to work best for a certain application? This could be helpful for those who are are not happy with the results they are getting or going to try something new. I will assume you use the manufacturers thinner unless noted.
The best paint I've found for airbrush application (and I've tried just about all of them) is Mr. Color by Gunze, with Mr. Hobby Leveling thinner. A small bottle goes a long way when you use the Leveling Thinner. I just use straight lacquer thinner for cleaning. Mr. Color gives a smooth, thin yet tough finish with a slight sheen, if you need dead flat it will accept any flat overcoat. It brush paints pretty well too, but I prefer it for airbrushing. Unfortunately, Mr. Color is really hard to get here in the US.
VR, Russ
TopSmith
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Posted: Friday, January 13, 2017 - 07:40 PM UTC
I only did enamels years ago but when I got married I switched to acrylics because of the oder complaints. I guess I am quirky but I want my colors to be accurate. I want to start with the correct color.I do not want to have to mix colors to get the color I want. Every time I have to custom mix my own I end up with lots of paint left over that I probably won't use again. Odd thing is I don't mind changing the paints tonal quality or shade for shadow areas or highlights or sun fading. I like Tamiya but I often can't find the color I want. Life color has many of the colors I like but unfortunately no one company carries all the colors so I end up using Model Master, Tamiya and Life Color. Just a thought, if you have to buy 3 or 4 bottles of paint to make a color is that much different than buying a set?
Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, January 13, 2017 - 10:13 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I only did enamels years ago but when I got married I switched to acrylics because of the oder complaints. I guess I am quirky but I want my colors to be accurate. I want to start with the correct color.I do not want to have to mix colors to get the color I want. Every time I have to custom mix my own I end up with lots of paint left over that I probably won't use again. Odd thing is I don't mind changing the paints tonal quality or shade for shadow areas or highlights or sun fading. I like Tamiya but I often can't find the color I want. Life color has many of the colors I like but unfortunately no one company carries all the colors so I end up using Model Master, Tamiya and Life Color. Just a thought, if you have to buy 3 or 4 bottles of paint to make a color is that much different than buying a set?
One of the great things about Gunze Mr. Color is they have a full range of colors, many more than Tamiya, and they are pre mixed for FSN and German RAL colors. They also have a line of "Aqueous" water based acrylics-- I've never tried those. In reality, the Tamiya colors are lacquers, as Gunze Mr. Color is. They come in the same sized bottle, and thin with lacquer, but I prefer to use the proprietary thinners with all the paints I use. Unfortunately, Mr. Color is really hard to get here in the US. Discount Models, the LHS I used to work at, carried the full line of Gunze paints, which we got through a distributor in Canada. Stevens International carries some of the line, but I hate ordering bottles of paint through the mail, you really never know what you are going to get unless you see it in person when it comes to paint. I was fortunate when Discount Models closed, I was able to buy most of the remaining Mr. Color stock, but now I'm running low on many of the colors, so I too have relied on mixing.
VR, Russ
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, January 14, 2017 - 05:15 AM UTC
Personally the paints I use more 'are Humbrol enamels, perfectly matt, very durable, cover very well, perfect with a brush or AB and with a very wide range of colors, smell but i work in the garage and is not a problem,i also use Acrylic Life Color although much less than the enamel, large range of colors with many FS/RLM, self-leveling, good with brush and AB, many already well prepared set of unusual subjects but with the option to buy individual colors of the sets
Because I like to work slowly i prefere the long drying time of Enamels rather than acrylics, also because of an error with a Enamels is easily remedied with acrylics a bit less
For metal effect i usually do a base with metallic Enamels and then a hand with "Agama metelizer paste" because is a wax you can polish them.
For the figurines acrylic and enamels are just for the base then use the oils Talens Rembrandt for everything else,i like the oils because in my opinion give you an absolute freedom of working, with a good matt base and when can an oven for ' drying you can 'have a fairly Matt finish but as in some woods, leather or skin you can' have that perfect satin finish on these occasions and they are very easy to fade, I use them even on AFV etc .. for certain effects
For some random company policies are alot cheaper buy the sigle Life Color paints of the set then buy the box set...to much difference for a card board box for this reason i usually buy the single colors and then made "my own set"
P.S: Unfortunately, especially for Humbrol there is the problem of horrific jars, preferring Dropper bottles Vallejo style armed with patience i transferred all jars in dropper bottles that are on the web a few cents, but attention 'to those produced in China that are of a quality and seal quite poor, every nation has some supplier of these things, buy from them, a few cents more 'but well spent ...
in USA
http://www.usplastic.com/
UK
https://www.cjk.co.uk/
http://www.snmstuff.co.uk/product/empty-dropper-bottles-6/
Because I like to work slowly i prefere the long drying time of Enamels rather than acrylics, also because of an error with a Enamels is easily remedied with acrylics a bit less
For metal effect i usually do a base with metallic Enamels and then a hand with "Agama metelizer paste" because is a wax you can polish them.
For the figurines acrylic and enamels are just for the base then use the oils Talens Rembrandt for everything else,i like the oils because in my opinion give you an absolute freedom of working, with a good matt base and when can an oven for ' drying you can 'have a fairly Matt finish but as in some woods, leather or skin you can' have that perfect satin finish on these occasions and they are very easy to fade, I use them even on AFV etc .. for certain effects
For some random company policies are alot cheaper buy the sigle Life Color paints of the set then buy the box set...to much difference for a card board box for this reason i usually buy the single colors and then made "my own set"
P.S: Unfortunately, especially for Humbrol there is the problem of horrific jars, preferring Dropper bottles Vallejo style armed with patience i transferred all jars in dropper bottles that are on the web a few cents, but attention 'to those produced in China that are of a quality and seal quite poor, every nation has some supplier of these things, buy from them, a few cents more 'but well spent ...
in USA
http://www.usplastic.com/
UK
https://www.cjk.co.uk/
http://www.snmstuff.co.uk/product/empty-dropper-bottles-6/
Kevlar06
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
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Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2017 - 05:22 AM UTC
[quote]" Personally the paints I use more 'are Humbrol enamels, perfectly matt, very durable, cover very well, perfect with a brush or AB and with a very wide range of colors, smell but i work in the garage and is not a problem...."[quote]
I started using Humbrol paints in the mid '60s--they were difficult to get here in the States at that time. However, I always sought them out where I could find them. I agree they give a very nice dead flat or semi-gloss smooth finish, and can be used with a brush or airbrush they paint particularly well with a brush as brush marks seem to disappear. However, in 2009, the LHS I worked at struck a contract with Hornby, and we started carrying the entire Humbrol line, enamels and acrylics. I bought about 15 tins of enamels(you are right, the can they come in is miserable). I was very disappointed to find they had changed the formulation to a point where the paint never really dried properly, was cool to the touch on the model days after painting and sticky-tacky. I had to mix the paint with lacquer thinner to get it to dry properly. This is a shame, since Humbrol is one of the few manufacturers who get British Bronze-Green color right. I ended up dumping 10 of the 15 tins as unusable. I haven't been able to bring myself to buy Humbrol since, as they are expensive.
VR, Russ
I started using Humbrol paints in the mid '60s--they were difficult to get here in the States at that time. However, I always sought them out where I could find them. I agree they give a very nice dead flat or semi-gloss smooth finish, and can be used with a brush or airbrush they paint particularly well with a brush as brush marks seem to disappear. However, in 2009, the LHS I worked at struck a contract with Hornby, and we started carrying the entire Humbrol line, enamels and acrylics. I bought about 15 tins of enamels(you are right, the can they come in is miserable). I was very disappointed to find they had changed the formulation to a point where the paint never really dried properly, was cool to the touch on the model days after painting and sticky-tacky. I had to mix the paint with lacquer thinner to get it to dry properly. This is a shame, since Humbrol is one of the few manufacturers who get British Bronze-Green color right. I ended up dumping 10 of the 15 tins as unusable. I haven't been able to bring myself to buy Humbrol since, as they are expensive.
VR, Russ
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
Joined: September 04, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2017 - 06:40 AM UTC
Quoted Text
However, in 2009, the LHS I worked at struck a contract with Hornby, and we started carrying the entire Humbrol line, enamels and acrylics. I bought about 15 tins of enamels(you are right, the can they come in is miserable). I was very disappointed to find they had changed the formulation to a point where the paint never really dried properly, was cool to the touch on the model days after painting and sticky-tacky
I see this problem not many time but happen also to me in the past,especially with Gloss or Metallic colors if you dont mix them very very well, stir and stir for minutes, the problem is started in 1988 when the factory in the UK is burned and led the production in China,the quality has plummeted historic lows but finally in 2012 Hornby take back the production in UK bringing the quality to European standards, a bit 'the composition is changed due to legal reasons, but the quality is still betterthen the China ones,have added new colors with RLM references even if they did a bit 'of confusion with old and new Humbrol numbers, if you want give again a try controls the new UK production is recognized by Union Jack printed on the jar
joepanzer
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2017 - 07:04 AM UTC
Vicious:
"...with a good matt base and when can an oven for ' drying you can 'have a fairly Matt finish..."
You put plastic models in the oven to dry them?????
I use Japan dryer.
I do agree with artist oils for figures. Particularly the face.
I bought a LifeColor Acrylic Flesh Set.
Terrible. Dries too quick to blend, or if you thin it, you have to put about 2-3 million coats.
Otherwise, Tamiya Acrylics, and Model Master Enamels. I actually held a Humbrol "tin" in my hand, but couldn't make the plunge.
I had neglected to put on my Big Boy Pants before I left home.
"...with a good matt base and when can an oven for ' drying you can 'have a fairly Matt finish..."
You put plastic models in the oven to dry them?????
I use Japan dryer.
I do agree with artist oils for figures. Particularly the face.
I bought a LifeColor Acrylic Flesh Set.
Terrible. Dries too quick to blend, or if you thin it, you have to put about 2-3 million coats.
Otherwise, Tamiya Acrylics, and Model Master Enamels. I actually held a Humbrol "tin" in my hand, but couldn't make the plunge.
I had neglected to put on my Big Boy Pants before I left home.
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
Joined: September 04, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2017 - 07:17 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Vicious:
"...with a good matt base and when can an oven for ' drying you can 'have a fairly Matt finish..."
You put plastic models in the oven to dry them?????
I use Japan dryer.
I do agree with artist oils for figures. Particularly the face.
I bought a LifeColor Acrylic Flesh Set.
Terrible. Dries too quick to blend, or if you thin it, you have to put about 2-3 million coats.
Otherwise, Tamiya Acrylics, and Model Master Enamels. I actually held a Humbrol "tin" in my hand, but couldn't make the plunge.
I had neglected to put on my Big Boy Pants before I left home.
Not plastic White Metal!...the "owen" is a DIY wooden box covered inside ,of aluminium and a old light bulb,is a old trick
i have the flash set and i love it for my bases and i prefere 5 thin coats then 2 thick,i use the transparency to my advantage for a smooth shade ....everyone have different view
joepanzer
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Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2017 - 07:43 AM UTC
How do you keep the previous layers from lifting up?
For example, it I put on the a spot of the darkest color, then blend the next lightest shade, and so on. Most of the time, the paint is dry by the time I get to the next color, and the blending becomes almost like the tearing of a sheet of paper, and lifts the paint up.
For example, it I put on the a spot of the darkest color, then blend the next lightest shade, and so on. Most of the time, the paint is dry by the time I get to the next color, and the blending becomes almost like the tearing of a sheet of paper, and lifts the paint up.
Vicious
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Posted: Monday, January 16, 2017 - 06:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
How do you keep the previous layers from lifting up?
For example, it I put on the a spot of the darkest color, then blend the next lightest shade, and so on. Most of the time, the paint is dry by the time I get to the next color, and the blending becomes almost like the tearing of a sheet of paper, and lifts the paint up.
I am probably not the best person to ask,i am a oils paiter,i use Acrylics just for base coating and a kind of pre-shading and hi-light but i never have that problem.
First LC need a good primer,like Tamiya sprycan,Mr Surfacer or my new favorite Badger Stynylrez,however,i think, or the base is not completely dry or other color begins to dry on the brush and "scrapes" the previous color, the LC that are very thinned work best in layers more then blendt but if you want to use that technique you go have to go "Wet-on-Wet" and prepare a wet-palette,cheap and easy,even a drop of Vallejo retarder can help, LC also makes the Thickner if you think it's too runny.
check this 2 part totorial...
http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com.au/2010/03/tutorial-ice-palette-blending-tutorial.html
joepanzer
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Posted: Monday, January 16, 2017 - 06:58 AM UTC
I get blending, I just have never tried the tin coats to soften the transitions. But that Ice pallet is brilliant. I wonder where I could find one of those laying around?
Thanks for the info.
You ever read "On the Beach"?
You might want to start building that bunker now.
Thanks for the info.
You ever read "On the Beach"?
You might want to start building that bunker now.
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Monday, January 16, 2017 - 01:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I get blending, I just have never tried the tin coats to soften the transitions. But that Ice pallet is brilliant. I wonder where I could find one of those laying around?
Thanks for the info.
You ever read "On the Beach"?
You might want to start building that bunker now.
The tin coats are the main tecnique with Acrilics,for the wet palette with google you can find 100 DIY totorials about it, but you can also find the ready ones,JS work's sale one
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=wet+palette+for+acrylic+painting&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=hct9WMb7GcHr8AepoI3IBg#q=wet+palette+for+acrylic+miniatures+painting
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=wet+palette+for+acrylic+painting&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=hct9WMb7GcHr8AepoI3IBg#q=wet+palette+for+acrylic+miniatures+painting
I never read that book,but souds good i really like that kind of sci-fi or steampunk stories,i already have my own anti-nuclear bunker Gift of the Cold War but under my home in my hometown in Switzerland!...was mandatory to have one every centain number of houses,is just 4 year i live Down Under
joepanzer
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Posted: Monday, January 16, 2017 - 05:12 PM UTC
Spoiler alert-It doesn't have a happy ending.
Like our election.
I do like the fact that the Swiss let their soldiers take their weapons home after conscription.
Like our election.
I do like the fact that the Swiss let their soldiers take their weapons home after conscription.
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 01:15 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Spoiler alert-It doesn't have a happy ending.
Like our election.
I do like the fact that the Swiss let their soldiers take their weapons home after conscription.
I think a happy ending and nuclear war are not a good match.
Be happy "Orange is the new Black" or you can move to Canada Justin It seems more 'friendly...
Yep if you want you can take home the Fass-90 ended the service,also during the service the personal weapon is at home,in the family we have 3 generation of army guns Fass-90,Fass-57 and my granfather K-31
Ok sorry for the massive off-topic!!!
j76lr
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Posted: Tuesday, January 31, 2017 - 10:00 PM UTC
I always liked Tamiya acrylics .