I want to relate an issue I've been having with everyone. I have been very discouraged with my building progress since rejoining the hobby a couple of years ago. I haven't finished a single model, but have worked on a couple. My specific issue has been with photo etch and resin parts. I used to love working with them before, meaning, many years ago. Since I started building again, I have had problems with parts popping free. I have been using CA glues from the Zap line. These are readily available in my LHS and I used them in the distant past. This was beyond frustrating. It didn't matter if I used the thin type or the gap filling type. It didn't matter how well the part was cleaned. It didn't matter if I clamped the joint, or how long I waited before handling. Parts were just popping free with little force applied. I am working on a Live Resin MCTAGS turret for a review and have had issues with the sides of the turret popping free of the base. On another model, every photo etch part has popped free at least once. Needless to say I have been apprehensive about gluing anything!

My brilliant son, who has never glued anything in his life suggested I use a bottle of Loctite Professional from the kitchen when I told him what was happening. It never dawned on me to try a different glue! I kept thinking it was something I was doing wrong. Well surprise, surprise! The Loctite worked wonders. Once I glue parts, I can't make them pop free. I will never use Zap products again. I never considered the Loctite because I didn't consider it a "hobby" brand. I've never been a hobby snob concerning any other type of product. I don't know why I was this time. I've always just used what works. I guess I learned a couple of valuable lessons here.

One, if a product doesn't work, try another brand!

Two, your fifteen year old son may actually know it all!

Three, never use another Zap product!

I hope this helps a few of you out and you can learn from my mistake. Keep building!

Regards,

Eric

BOB SMITH Industries CA glue all the way!!!

I haven't tried this yet but I am looking forward to giving it a go.

http://www.vms-supplies.com/flexy-5k-pe-product-overview

I know nothing about this line but it looks promising.

Vantage Modelling Solutions

Completely different solution! I dislike PE so much that I never use it unless I absolitely have to. That way, I am rarely frustrated with bonding PE. OK, not a solution, just avoidance. But, hey, I am coping my way.

For PE I use Gator's Grip Glue.

I will second Bob Smith Industries. I use the odorless CA-no fumes and it works well for clear parts. I also use Gorilla Glue. Seems to have some flex to it which works well for etch parts. I have heard a lot of good about Gator glue.

Hi - I'll add one more vote for Bob Smith industries, medium, odorless CA - it's a great product - one more point - it doesn't set instantly (it is fast) so you can adjust parts as needed.

Cheers

Nick

I've heard good things about the acrylic glue used by Our Better Halves for attaching false nails. At least for PE detail parts: don't know about structural parts. Seems to be widely available on eBay and probably elsewhere, and not expensive. Bought a couple of different brands to try but not had an actual chance to try yet.

I have a lot of trouble with CA of various brands turning to jelly or setting solid in the bottle. Am I just not making an airtight cap seal and not using it up quickly enough?

I store mine in the refrigerator. I have three bottles in there and have been for a couple years now. (I'm not a fast builder)
They are still good. Give it a try.

i was thinking to give a go to Colle21

http://italienstylerenov.com/english/

I agree. I went through all the Zap thingies thinking they were good because they were featured in many hobby catalogues. I now use Loctite gel. A drop on a clean surface then pick up the required amount on a pin/piece of wire et al and place it where you want. Works for me.

I'm thinking you may not have "washed" the resin well enough if PE and other resin isn't sticking to it. Resin is about the only thing I wash, as the mold release agent is pretty heavy to get it out of those rubber or vinyl molds. On the other hand, it could very well be the age of the ZAP glue you used or the batch. A few years ago, I worked in a LHS, and we received a bad batch with similar issues, it also didn't age well, hardening in the bottles on the shelves. UV light will also cause issues with cyanoacrylate glues--you should keep them out of direct sunlight. I can also second what others have said about BSI glues (Bob Smith Industires). They are far superior to ZAP glues, come in all sorts of varieties including foam safe and flexible. I've never had any problem with them, and they seem to age better than ZAP does-- a small bottle can last me up to a year or more. I recommend you try them-- they can be found at most Hobbytowns, and other hobby stores.
VR, Russ

If I really need a strong bond when I am gluing PE to Plastic I use epoxy glue.

Epoxy is great when gluing large surface areas, over clean PE, but I prefer using BSI industries super thin cyanoacrylate for tiny parts, as there's too much excess with epoxy, or not enough epoxy to tack. It also dries much slower. I use a needle applicator with a drop of cyanoacrylate placed on a glass plate to attach the part-- that way I only get the right amount of glue. Then I hit it with a drop of accelerator for an instant bond. I use one of those micro brushes to apply the accelerator. By the way, the best epoxy I've ever used is JB Weld epoxy. I even used it to repair a pinhole leak in the bottom of my compressor tank (rusted through from water condensation in the tank). I can get my tank up to 120 PSI now (the limit of my regulator) with no leak-- JB weld is good stuff.
VR, Russ

I used to use Zap a Gap and Zap pink label and one day I got it out and the Zap a Gap had dried out. I also noticed the last time I bought some it seemed not to hold as well. I was walking thru Home Depot and saw a cheap bottle of Locktite gel and grabbed that to give it a try. I was surprised that it held as well as it does for such a cheap glue. It does fume a bit more than I like but I can deal with that. So I'm using that until I find a good gap filling CA.

Thank you everyone! Ok guess I hit on a great topic. When I run out of the Loctite I will have to give Bob Smith a try. My LHS stocks it. I use a scrap of styrene with a small drop of glue on it. I use a scrap of brass wire to place appropriate sized drops of glue for precise control. With the Loctite I've been able so far to bond large and small surfaces with no problem and little to no real cleaning. Again, thank you all for your tips!

Regards,

Eric