Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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What glue for Fruilmodel Tracks?
Namerifrats
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 26, 2014
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Joined: May 26, 2014
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 12:07 AM UTC
Have my first set of Fruilmodel tracks for a T-34. Might try to work on them some tonight. What glue do you guys use for it? It says Superglue but I read somewhere on here about not using it because it can run down the wire and make the track rigid and not flexible. Read about using Epoxy, and another article about using simple white glue.
Xenomorphium
Gyor-Moson-Sopron, Hungary
Joined: August 18, 2013
KitMaker: 40 posts
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Joined: August 18, 2013
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 12:20 AM UTC
I don't recommend epoxy. I'm not glueing it at all. When it's assembled the weight will create tension and it will keep tge pins in its place
hardhat
Louisiana, United States
Joined: October 21, 2013
KitMaker: 38 posts
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Joined: October 21, 2013
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 12:44 AM UTC
I use medium viscosity gap filling super glue. After trimming the wire flush, I use a short piece of stretched sprue to apply just enough superglue to fill in the hole where the end of the wire is. I've never had a problem with capillary action taking the glue in and cementing the track together. You don't need much glue. Just enough to fill the hole and lock in the wire. Bear in mind that if you plan on using a metal blackening or rusting solution to weather the metal track, any superglued areas with remain white metal in color and will have to be touched up.
Hope this helps.
Andrew
Hope this helps.
Andrew
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
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Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 01:00 AM UTC
Same here,I have found that I have not needed to use glue at all.
SDavies
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 01:09 AM UTC
No glue needed. I hate making the tracks but damn they look good when fitted
gharker
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: May 21, 2014
KitMaker: 109 posts
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Joined: May 21, 2014
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 01:16 AM UTC
I use a ca glue, when dry I cut the wire end off.
If you accidentally leaked a small amount of glue you should be able to gently work the track until the glue breaks.
Another trick that I have done in the past is to buy thicker brass wire and I tap it in with a light hammer, those pins will never come out. Those tracks will be a bit stiff but that is fine.
If you accidentally leaked a small amount of glue you should be able to gently work the track until the glue breaks.
Another trick that I have done in the past is to buy thicker brass wire and I tap it in with a light hammer, those pins will never come out. Those tracks will be a bit stiff but that is fine.
Namerifrats
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 26, 2014
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Joined: May 26, 2014
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 02:27 AM UTC
Thanks for all the replies! I'll see how they work out with no glue first. I may need a little something because the wire theg provided looks really small. May fit through the holes fine but I don't want them falling out if they fit loose.
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
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Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 03:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for all the replies! I'll see how they work out with no glue first. I may need a little something because the wire theg provided looks really small. May fit through the holes fine but I don't want them falling out if they fit loose.
Like Greg said,the pins work pretty good holding them together,I bought a couple of tracks to Michael's and was able to pick out the right size.
210cav
Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
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Joined: February 05, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 04:02 AM UTC
I will second placing a drop of crazy glue on each connection if you use the kit supplied wire. I have used thicker wire on occasion and found it holds without the ca glue
Namerifrats
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 26, 2014
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Joined: May 26, 2014
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 01:07 PM UTC
I have a roll of 24ga steel wire that I tested and it fits. I'll use it. Spent an hour and a half tonight just cleaning up and drilling out the holes on just one side. Time consuming, hopefully worth it though!
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 02:25 PM UTC
I use CA "gel" glue. So no risk of leakage. This is more to hide the hole in the connector than to hold the pin in place.
Another option is to use a thicker wire than the one provided by Friul.
Olivier
Another option is to use a thicker wire than the one provided by Friul.
Olivier
Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 05:54 PM UTC
I typically use CA glue, and have never had an issue with links getting stuck together. Have also recently tried using Mr Surfacer and that works great as well.
janders
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: July 10, 2016
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Joined: July 10, 2016
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 07:36 PM UTC
I used thin CA (what I had lying around) on my set a few days ago, just on a few pins that were loose. I'd say 90% held strongly without any attention on my part.
The DOWNSIDE of using CA was that when I went to darken the tracks with a bluing agent, it didn't penetrate under the superglue, leaning bright white metal spots.
No big deal as its only a handful of small spots, on the inside of the track run, so I can paint over / hide them. But something to consider.
If you are just painting them, you won't run into this issue.
The DOWNSIDE of using CA was that when I went to darken the tracks with a bluing agent, it didn't penetrate under the superglue, leaning bright white metal spots.
No big deal as its only a handful of small spots, on the inside of the track run, so I can paint over / hide them. But something to consider.
If you are just painting them, you won't run into this issue.
vettejack
Florida, United States
Joined: November 23, 2012
KitMaker: 1,277 posts
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Joined: November 23, 2012
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Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 08:38 PM UTC
I ditch the wire Friul packs...too flimsy for me as it constantly bends up when applied. I substitute .020 brass wire for most of my Friul applications. Like others have mentioned, I use super glue to keep the pins in place while handling the finished product until finally on the vehicle. Once a length of wire is inserted, the super glue I then use is the thicker type (5 to 15 second drying time), as it does not have any capillary affect (no 'freezing' up the track once used). I give adequate drying time before I snip off the excess wire to be reused into another link. I'll do this method for 10 or 12 links at the same time. Goes pretty quick once you get the hang of it.